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> The Official 914Rubber Back Pad How-To Instructional., It's done! Feel free to comment!
Series9
post Mar 9 2016, 06:20 PM
Post #21


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And then (said in an Asian voice from "Dude, where's my car"):

We move on to gluing down the field.

Note the texture of the fiberglass that translates to the vinyl back pad behind the seats.

This was an unknown when I started the project. The smooth side of the fiberglass support pieces is on the back, not the front.

While this probably provides more adhesion for the vinyl, some may not like the aesthetic of the blown in fiberglass.

Of course, next time I could spend another few hours with a DA sander smoothing everything out....



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Series9
post Mar 9 2016, 06:31 PM
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Remember (again) when we talked about contact cement and adhesion?

Here are pictures of the field on the passenger backer.

The vinyl has to be pushed into the backer and that causes tension. Well, it didn't want to stay, so, leave for 24hrs...


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Series9
post Mar 9 2016, 06:38 PM
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The next four finish up the passenger side.

Note the cut-out for the parking brake on the passenger side does not apply and the screws for the tension strip have been cut off.

Be very carful when cutting the screw remnants. They are very hot and will go right through vinyl, if you let one get away to the front side.


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Series9
post Mar 9 2016, 06:43 PM
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Remember the pulls on the median seam on the outside bolsters?

I finished it like this. Those pulls only require a VERY SMALL AMOUNT OF TENSION.

Pull lightly and bend the safety wire over. It'll hold there. Then, I found some screws to put in the holes that will hold the wire (again, under very light tension).



Then, get out the soldering iron (or similar) again and punch the holes where this part will screw to the mid section. Be very careful! A slip up at this point will cause a phone call to Oregon!


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Series9
post Mar 9 2016, 06:50 PM
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Questions about adhesion?

Pull is obvious and even shear has limits:



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Series9
post Mar 9 2016, 08:11 PM
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On to the center section.

It's obvious where the interior light should be located, but it's not that simple.

You have to cut out the obvious hole, and then:

In the original arrangement, the light was secured by two thin tabs. Those tabs do not exist on this assembly. Because this "stack-up" is too thick for the original light to simply snap in, I attempted to bevel the fiberglass.

My attempt worked before the vinyl was overlaid.



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Series9
post Mar 10 2016, 08:18 AM
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Buy/find some Tinnerman nuts and ad them to the center section.




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Series9
post Mar 10 2016, 08:20 AM
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Get out the 3M Super 90 and attach the foam.


Then, go for a test fit on the vinyl:





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Series9
post Mar 10 2016, 08:25 AM
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Two bits of funkiness on the center vinyl.

The vinyl simply terminates at the bottom of the foam.

There is no flap for either attachment to the fiberglass or to cover the bottom.

I just covered the bottom with felt, but the vinyl is not actually attached across the front.


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Series9
post Mar 10 2016, 08:35 AM
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This is a scary cut. Be very careful.



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Series9
post Mar 10 2016, 08:38 AM
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There is no way, that I can see to use anything but contact cement here.

The light is basically friction fit. It won't snap in due to the thickness.



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Series9
post Mar 10 2016, 08:44 AM
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The center section could be mostly attached with contact cement, but I decided 4 points needed more:



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Series9
post Mar 10 2016, 08:48 AM
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Get out the hot knife again and poke the holes for the Tinnerman nuts:



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Series9
post Mar 10 2016, 08:51 AM
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Get some screws that are just long enough. You don't want to flip this over and have a screw poking out of the center vinyl.



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Series9
post Mar 10 2016, 08:53 AM
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That's it!

Repeat the steps for the driver's side and you're done.

Whew!

(Yes, I am aware that I have to do something to obfuscate the white sealant on the back window)


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BeatNavy
post Mar 10 2016, 10:01 AM
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Someone's gotta break the ice and comment (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Excellent write-up, Joe. Thanks for the great details and pictures. This will be a project for me at some point in the future.
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Ferg
post Mar 10 2016, 11:43 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Wow, nice job.

Appreciate the time it took to do the write up! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
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02loftsmoor
post Mar 10 2016, 11:56 AM
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If you don't know how to do it I did, it turned this into a PDF. I'll email it to you if you want it. little easier to use. Series9 great work
contact me at
wesleyallangreen@gmail.com
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beech4rd
post Mar 10 2016, 12:06 PM
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Thank you very much for this. Very clear instructions. Fantastic!
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Tom_T
post Mar 10 2016, 12:36 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) Kudos Joe & Thanx!

BTW folks - Joe's "how to" here will essentially also work for any of the 914 interior kits, as well as with "roll stock" material if you use the old stuff as a pattern to make up & sew the kit parts (much more work).

Also if you use a local upholstery shop not too familiar with 914s, you can send them the link to this topic for guidance.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Tom
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