Front Suspension Removal/Disassembly, First time for the job Options

[Lawrence]

Any tips for first time removal of the front suspension? The plan is to remove the suspension, clean it up and sand blast, and powdercoat.

Situation: I'm doing this in a parking lot. Air tools are remotely possible, but not feasable.

I'd like to find a way to remove it in sections, if possible. I'll be working alone.

Thanks,
Rusty

P.S. Hope everyone had a good Father's Day. My son (6 y/o) learned how to ride his bike without training wheels!

[Mueller]

My fathers day was terrible, I killed my 75 goldfish when I changed the water in the pond in the backyard...I guess I drained too much of the old water and the new water must have had the pH level way off base (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)


Now to your suspension Q's:

13mm, 15mm and 17mm sockets and wrenches needed, along with a BFH (3 lb sledge is my favorite).

Do you plan on dropping the steering rack and the crossbar? If so, gas tank removal is helpful.

The a-arms come off easily, it's the struts that'll be a problem due to the tie-rods, that has always been my hardest part of the job since I do not have the proper tie-rod removal tool.

Here is a quick and dirty method for removing the a-arms:

1) Remove the metal skid cap that covers the front of the a-arm (8 or 10mm socket head cap screw)

2) Remove the two bolts holding the front of the arm to the chassis

3) Remove the shield under the steering rack (13mm)
and (15 or 17mm)

4) Keep the struts attached to the car from the top shock tower

5) Remove the pin or bolt that holds the strut to the ball joint. Smack the a-arm on the top between the strut and the swaybar tab. (BFH)

6) Once the strut is loose from the a-arm, you need to move the a-arms forward to pull the a-arm assembly out of the crossmember. (BFH)

Hope that helps somewhat (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Lawrence]

I hadn't decided on the steering rack and crossbar. Is there any value in pulling that for powdercoating. This is my first voyage into the world of 914 suspension (other than replacing shocks), so I'm a bit vague on it.

I don't have the tie-rod end tool, either. Should I try to remove the tie-rod ends before I start disassembling anything else?

P.S. Sorry to hear about your fish. I have both FW and SW tanks and it's always a tough thing to lose one. I can't imagine losing 75.

[Mueller]

Yes, remove the tie rods first, or at least get them loose, the FLAPS should have a tool you can rent for 15 bucks or so


The steering rack is aluminum, I'd just clean it and leave it up there.

The crossmember can be removed without removeing the sterring rack (I'm 90% sure that is true)

Crossmember is steel (914 suspension correct??)
Instead of powdercoating it, I'd clean it and Por-15 it, you'll never see it.

Now would be a good time to R&R the mastercylinder unless it's only a few years old.

[Lawrence]

It's amazing that as often as I've been under a 914, I know so little about the suspension.

I've got a 19mm master cylinder here, ready to be rebuilt. I need to disassemble and clean it up, and see if it's worth putting the rebuild it into it.

Is there a special sized tie-rod tool, or is it one size fits all?

I want to try and do this all tonight when I get home. Am I setting myself up for failure?

-Rusty

[Mueller]

It is not worth the time, effort and liabilities of rebuilding a M/C...yes, I have done it on my 1st 914, but never again.......


Not sure about the tie rod, I guess you can take some measurements or show them a picture ???

If you bust a$$, I'd think you can get these parts removed tonight.

[brant]

Lawrence,

given the recent large purchase of parts, and the need to draw the line somewhere.....

If the MC is not leaking and was working before, I'd just re-use it without the rebuild.

If it was leaking, then yes get a new one... but you've got to draw the line somewhere, and if/when it does fail you can always replace it later.

brant

[Lawrence]

Okay... Well, I'll shoot to do the job tonight, then.

I have the master cylinder and the rebuild kit, so I might as well try. If I open it up and it's all corroded to hell - then I'll junk it.

Sounds like the tie rod ends are the key to this job. I'm hoping to get this stuff all bead blasted and ready to go before Thursday.

[anthony]

Why are you going through all this self inflicted pain and suffering? Is the sole purpose to powdercoat everything or are there other issues that necessitate removal?

[Lawrence]

Bushings and shocks are shot. Might as well do the job right.

[Mueller]

anthony Posted on Jun 16 2003, 10:12 AM
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Why are you going through all this self inflicted pain and suffering? Is the sole purpose to powdercoat everything or are there other issues that necessitate removal?

HOW DARE YOU QUESTION THE REASONING OF TAKING APART A PERFECTLY GOOD RUNNING 914 !!!!!!

LOL

I ask myself the same question everytime I walk out into my garage and see my poor 914 up on jack stands (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[Bleyseng]

Rusty is the newest member of the DWD Club, let him enjoy his moment of glory!!!

Are the tie rods good or Turbo tie rods? If they are suspect replace them and you can use that 3lb maul to pound them out of the strut. If you soak them in PB Blaster they will pop out easier. Same with all the nuts and bolts, soak em.

Is everything rusty? is that why you are sandblasting the parts? Kinda leaves a rough surface to powder coat.

Geoff

[Andyrew]

I ask myself the same question everytime I walk out into my garage and see my poor 914 up on jack stands

Heck at least your 914 is in the garage!!

As far as the tie rods go, After I took a tuning fork type thing and wedged it in to take them out and kept hammering, I gave up and went to dad, who took the small sledge and just hammerd the heck out of the place the tie rods attached to.. after about 10 hits, it just fell out. Now I have to do the other side (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)
At least Im puttin in some turbo ties!, next my new 19mm m/c.. And im thinking im gona get this thing running in 2 weeks!! AHH!

[Jeroen]

Get the tie-rod tool. It works pretty easy
Oh, and don't go for the "pickle fork" one
Do a search on the BBS for tie rod tool (or something similar... there's a thread about 'em with pic (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif))

Getting the struts of the a-arms can be a PITA too
Brad had a cool tip for this:
with the car on jackstands, jack up the a-arm
put another jackstand under the hub of the brakedisk, so it supports the whole assembly. Remove jack. Get the BFH and give a couple of good whacks on the a-arm. The tension of the torsionbar helps pushing the a-arm down.
Works like a charm!

Other than that, it's all pretty straightforward

If I were you, I'd get all new bolts for the susp.parts

good luck

cheers,

Jeroen

[Lawrence]

Fu(&ing Tie Rod Ends!!

After soaking them in PB for almost a week...

I've beat on them, lifted with a jack, and got a tie rod separator. Those little SOBs aren't moving.

I'm worried if I use a pickle-fork-tool... I'll destroy the ends. They appear to be in good shape.

Any other thoughts? Am I going about this wrong?

-Rusty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)

P.S. Hey Geoff... I've got surface rust on most of this stuff. I'm not using sand to blast. Beads.

[kdfoust]

I had a thread about a month ago on tie rod end removal tools. After due consideration I used the smack the control-arm with a hammer method which failed. Pick-fork came out and destroyed both tie rod end boots in the process.

One thing I did learn was to use some anti-sieze on the taper of the tie-rod ends when I reassembled them (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Good luck,
Kevin

[Gint]

I'm worried if I use a pickle-fork-tool... I'll destroy the ends. They appear to be in good shape.

So what? Are you saving those old tie rods for something? They're trash, that's why you're replacing them.

Old mechanic's trick. While applying some removal force on the tie rod end, smack the hole it's in (the arm coming off the strut) with a 3 lb. sledge. The impact temporarily and slightly changes the shape of the hole. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.

[Gint]

Is everything rusty? is that why you are sandblasting the parts? Kinda leaves a rough surface to powder coat.

He did say bead blasting and not sand blasting. Glass bead leaves a very fine finish and powder coats nicely. BTDT I've even had good results powder coating drive shafts after blasting with aluminum oxide.

[Lawrence]

The tie-rods don't appear to be trash. They look in good shape, so I'd like to save them, if I can.

I'll get a bigger hammer, I guess.

-Rusty

[Jeroen]

LAWRENCE, STOP JERKING AROUND AND READ!!!!
Buy or rent the tie-rod removal tool!!!!!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

cheers,

Jeroen