75 Update, and some questions |
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75 Update, and some questions |
solex |
Mar 27 2005, 07:20 AM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 789 Joined: 12-January 05 From: Long Island, NY Member No.: 3,439 Region Association: North East States |
First thank you all for the help so far, I took some pictures of my 75 before things start to change. So far I have repaired:
- Some electrical problems, mainly related to the defroster heater motor and some interior lights. - Replace the rear struts with Bilsteins HD. - Added Hella H4's up front. - Pressure washed the under carrige (post attached pictures). - Completely flushed the brake fluid - Balanced all 4 tires to correct a vibration at 65 mph. - Purchased a NOS door to replace the drivers door - Purchased a deck lid to repair the original decklid that was missing the bracket for the J-Bolt - Changed the turn signal lenses. On to the questions: Brakes; I replaced the fluid, pressure bled the entire system and the brakes operate poorly. There is no pulling or pulsating, and the pedal feels fine there is simply not enough stopping pressure applied to the rotors. It is impossible to lock up the brakes, although the car will eventually stop I have to be extremely careful. What are your thoughts? Rear Alignment; I noticed that the rear of the drivers side tire is at an angle the back of the tire is farther out then the front of the tire when compared against the fender and the other side of the car. The difference is so much that it would limit the choice of tire width as it appeared to be a problem for the PO. A previous tire must have rubbed on the fender. Is this something that can be fixed by myself if so how would it be done? Attached image(s) |
solex |
Mar 27 2005, 07:21 AM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 789 Joined: 12-January 05 From: Long Island, NY Member No.: 3,439 Region Association: North East States |
a1
Attached image(s) |
solex |
Mar 27 2005, 07:21 AM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 789 Joined: 12-January 05 From: Long Island, NY Member No.: 3,439 Region Association: North East States |
a2
Attached image(s) |
solex |
Mar 27 2005, 07:22 AM
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#4
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 789 Joined: 12-January 05 From: Long Island, NY Member No.: 3,439 Region Association: North East States |
a3
Attached image(s) |
solex |
Mar 27 2005, 07:22 AM
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#5
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 789 Joined: 12-January 05 From: Long Island, NY Member No.: 3,439 Region Association: North East States |
a4
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solex |
Mar 27 2005, 07:24 AM
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#6
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 789 Joined: 12-January 05 From: Long Island, NY Member No.: 3,439 Region Association: North East States |
a5
Attached image(s) |
solex |
Mar 27 2005, 07:24 AM
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#7
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 789 Joined: 12-January 05 From: Long Island, NY Member No.: 3,439 Region Association: North East States |
a6
Attached image(s) |
solex |
Mar 27 2005, 07:25 AM
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#8
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 789 Joined: 12-January 05 From: Long Island, NY Member No.: 3,439 Region Association: North East States |
a7
Attached image(s) |
solex |
Mar 27 2005, 07:25 AM
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#9
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 789 Joined: 12-January 05 From: Long Island, NY Member No.: 3,439 Region Association: North East States |
a8
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solex |
Mar 27 2005, 07:26 AM
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#10
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 789 Joined: 12-January 05 From: Long Island, NY Member No.: 3,439 Region Association: North East States |
a9
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solex |
Mar 27 2005, 07:27 AM
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#11
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 789 Joined: 12-January 05 From: Long Island, NY Member No.: 3,439 Region Association: North East States |
a10
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solex |
Mar 27 2005, 07:28 AM
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#12
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 789 Joined: 12-January 05 From: Long Island, NY Member No.: 3,439 Region Association: North East States |
a11
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solex |
Mar 27 2005, 07:29 AM
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#13
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 789 Joined: 12-January 05 From: Long Island, NY Member No.: 3,439 Region Association: North East States |
a12
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solex |
Mar 27 2005, 07:31 AM
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#14
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 789 Joined: 12-January 05 From: Long Island, NY Member No.: 3,439 Region Association: North East States |
a13
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MecGen |
Mar 27 2005, 07:31 AM
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#15
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8 Easy Steps Group: Members Posts: 848 Joined: 8-January 05 From: Laval, Canada Member No.: 3,421 |
Hi
Have you ever tryed the car before, I don't know if you mean that this problems started after the flush...or.... I suspect that you are suffering from some 914 oem design flaws. The best/easiest way is a 19mm master cyl and steel braded lines. This is a must do on all 914 on the road. After look around at the various swaps out there, look hard at the BMW kit.
914 starts with a wheel alignment, a member here sells the shims, you can do it in house by following the routines posted in these boards, or have it pro done. I need to know your tire size. Bonus of owning a 914, you will become very good at fixing your car. Regards Joe (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif) |
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MecGen |
Mar 27 2005, 07:36 AM
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#16
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8 Easy Steps Group: Members Posts: 848 Joined: 8-January 05 From: Laval, Canada Member No.: 3,421 |
I guess I posted when the pics were loading....
Nice wheels, looks well worth the effort. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif) If you need an interior theres one for sale in the classifieds. Regards Joe (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif) |
solex |
Mar 27 2005, 07:37 AM
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#17
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 789 Joined: 12-January 05 From: Long Island, NY Member No.: 3,439 Region Association: North East States |
Hey Joe,
Answering your questions: There was no change in the braking before and after the pressure bleeding. I was told from a former owner/AX'er that the 914 brakes stock are very good. Also I restored many VW beetles in the past and these brake are much worse then the beetle with 4 wheel drums. I have a set of SS braided lines for a beetle, do you know if they are the same for the 914? I currently have 165R15's all around, I will check for the shims. Thanks, Dan |
ejm |
Mar 27 2005, 08:08 AM
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#18
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I can see the light at the end of the tunnel Group: Members Posts: 2,690 Joined: 3-February 03 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 224 Region Association: None |
Might want to look at the pads and rotors....glazed over pads will cause this
The Riviera wheels came with different offsets and will limit tire width...maybe the PO found this out...many 914's seem to have a little less clearance on the drivers side Dan..you have a PM |
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MecGen |
Mar 27 2005, 08:48 AM
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#19
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8 Easy Steps Group: Members Posts: 848 Joined: 8-January 05 From: Laval, Canada Member No.: 3,421 |
Ya
It looks like some basics checks are in order. Low quality pads that are ran too hard will loose permanently thier stopping ability. I would sugest you check your front calipers, if anything is wrong, now would be the time to look into a BMW conversion, this also takes care of the pads if you don't know what kind/ when the pads were changed, you can upgrade with the calipers. I will do exacly this when I am finished my curent project. I have the 19mm and braded lines already. I have had/driven lots of VW and a stock 914 is close but needs even more foot presure. A stock system that can't lock the wheels is really not unheard of, very good/easy/cheap results with the above stuff. I had read a article in European Car mag (long ago) and the author was trying this swap on a 914, at the end of the article he wrote something like " if I knew about this brake setup before I would never of bought my 5000$ Wildwood setup" but I suspect he was talking in general about the new brake swaps that are out there. Good post Regards (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif) |
CptTripps |
Mar 27 2005, 09:32 AM
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#20
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:: Punch and Pie :: Group: Members Posts: 3,584 Joined: 26-December 04 From: Mentor, OH Member No.: 3,342 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Interior: I've got a full interior for sale...cheap too. PM me for details.
Brakes: I had the EXACT same problem, so I attacked the entire system. It's honestly NOT that expensive to replace the pads, lines and the master cylender. I think you'll have about $250 into a master, pads, hard lines, and new flexable lines. I was also told to replace the prop-valve in the rear with a "T". Get a tube bender and go for it. Took me about 4hrs to replace everything. Also take your roters to any independent shop. Have them put them on the lathe, and grind them down. You'll spend $8-$10 per roter and KNOW that they are true. Now I'm about 3 weeks away from actually DRIVING my car, so I can't tell you if it worked well or not, but FWIW, If it still isn't stoping, I don't know WHAT I'll do! |
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