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> Uhh-Ohh…., My Ongoing 914 Build Adventures....
Larmo63
post Apr 16 2016, 07:09 PM
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I think a main bearing took a shit. Dammit.
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jmill
post Feb 4 2017, 09:15 PM
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What are you trying to do? If you're trying to mechanically remove paint and gunk, there are way better tools including media blasting.

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914_teener
post Feb 4 2017, 09:18 PM
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QUOTE(jmill @ Feb 4 2017, 07:15 PM) *

What are you trying to do? If you're trying to mechanically remove paint and gunk, there are way better tools including media blasting.



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
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Larmo63
post Feb 4 2017, 11:42 PM
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I can't really media blast in my garage. This is a complete car, I don't want to take it all apart just to media blast the engine bay.
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914_teener
post Feb 5 2017, 12:24 AM
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Ok....I thought easy is what you said. Not sure what "easy" means.


From the looks of the surfaces in the thread looks like you may of had some petroleum type undercoating sprayed on? Not sure what work you are doing inside the engine compartment, so I'll assume you are trying to look for any bad rust spots and to do that you need to get down to the base metal to fix or add strengthening components given the motor you are installing....... so..................with that said:

Plain old gas works well to get that off or grease off. Have to really soak it and it will smell a lot. You can use a stronger solvent like acetone or brake cleaner but for that I recommend good resistant glove and a good NIOSH type mask. Solvent are not good for you or other living things.


After that my best results are a good amperage high RPM drill with a good quality brass cone wire wheel first and lots of elbow grease. Not easy. Follow up with a good quality stainless cone wire wheel on a angle air grinder ( these are not cheap) and the best ones I have found are from McMaster Carr and can hold up past 7K rpm's. The ones from Home Depot will last about five minutes and cost you about 7 bucks each.....so not worth it and not easy.

Others like Cary or Rick may chime in but from my chair those things work okay.

Easy to me is something that is done or I pay somebody else to do. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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mlindner
post Feb 5 2017, 06:51 AM
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Larmo 63, I was in the same boat two years ago, but needed to do the entire car. Tried a lot, solvents, fein tool, all kinds of wheels, scrapers.....The answer is the long arm angle grinder from HF. reaches in to all the corners. Worked so well I did the whole bottom of my car in four hours. Got into all the tight inner fender area's, just great and fast. Only problem, it has a bolt type fixture on the end, so you need to take the wire wheel remove post and drill 1/4" hole. Not hard, one wheel did entire car. Hope this make sense, I keep looking for a photo of it. Best, Mark
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mlindner
post Feb 5 2017, 07:02 AM
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Found it. Love your carbs, I'm still looking. Have fun. MarkAttached Image
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mb911
post Feb 5 2017, 07:32 AM
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The other thing I have found is a wheel for a grinder brand name is Norton rapid strip wheel. About 8 bucks online. I removed everything to bare metal on my front wheel well and gender in 15 minutes on a standard 4.5 inch grinder.
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barefoot
post Feb 5 2017, 07:44 AM
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If you don't have lots of air compressor capacity, a cheap harbor freight 4.5" angle grinder with cone type wire brushes do a great job of getting into most confined areas.
I've had mine for several years and keeps on ticking.
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Larmo63
post Feb 5 2017, 11:32 AM
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Thanks guys, I just need to get back in there and git 'r done. It's a dirty area, and the crap they used to keep the sound pad on is very difficult to remove.

Back at it today.

We usually watch the "game" for the commercials, but lately, even those have sucked.
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76-914
post Feb 5 2017, 02:35 PM
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QUOTE(mb911 @ Feb 5 2017, 05:32 AM) *

The other thing I have found is a wheel for a grinder brand name is Norton rapid strip wheel. About 8 bucks online. I removed everything to bare metal on my front wheel well and gender in 15 minutes on a standard 4.5 inch grinder.

If that Norton Rapid strip wheel one that looks like a Sponge on Steroids then (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) . Those things are vicious and they leave the metal alone while producing very little heat. They last forever, too! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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mb911
post Feb 5 2017, 03:31 PM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Feb 5 2017, 12:35 PM) *

QUOTE(mb911 @ Feb 5 2017, 05:32 AM) *

The other thing I have found is a wheel for a grinder brand name is Norton rapid strip wheel. About 8 bucks online. I removed everything to bare metal on my front wheel well and gender in 15 minutes on a standard 4.5 inch grinder.

If that Norton Rapid strip wheel one that looks like a Sponge on Steroids then (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) . Those things are vicious and they leave the metal alone while producing very little heat. They last forever, too! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)



Yup that's the one..
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euro911
post Feb 5 2017, 08:14 PM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Feb 5 2017, 12:35 PM) *
If that Norton Rapid strip wheel one that looks like a Sponge on Steroids then (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) . Those things are vicious and they leave the metal alone while producing very little heat. They last forever, too! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) they do the trick ... but they definitely don't last forever. I keep a couple spares in the tool chest.
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Larmo63
post Feb 6 2017, 04:31 PM
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I'm now whittling down my list of more hard purchases I need to make. Did I mention that this is an expensive little project? Keeping my eye on the prize.

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mb911
post Feb 6 2017, 04:34 PM
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What did you use for tensioners? Old school with safetys?

And yes expensive just sent my case out today ugh
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Larmo63
post Feb 6 2017, 05:31 PM
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Carrera set coming soon. You can see the right hand chain box nuts are off. It has new 930 tensioners with safety collars, but....

I'll be selling them.
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mb911
post Feb 6 2017, 05:37 PM
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QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Feb 6 2017, 03:31 PM) *

Carrera set coming soon. You can see the right hand chain box nuts are off. It has new 930 tensioners with safety collars, but....

I'll be selling them.



Safety collars are the way to go. Carrera tensioners are waaay to expensive and don't offer and advantage over collars. My engine is all apart right now for crank, rods, case, pistons etc and I won't use carrera again.
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euro911
post Feb 6 2017, 07:29 PM
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I agree ... I like the safety collars too.
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Larmo63
post Feb 6 2017, 08:09 PM
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Well, there are two schools of thought here. I'd rather not shell out the $$$ for them, but some swear by the oilers. I see tons of engines without them. This is what I have:



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76-914
post Feb 6 2017, 08:35 PM
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QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Feb 6 2017, 03:31 PM) *

Carrera set coming soon. You can see the right hand chain box nuts are off. It has new 930 tensioners with safety collars, but....

I'll be selling them.

Are those banks marked L&R? That is definitely the right bank when sitting in a 911. I wonder if the 2 liter 914 OEM 6cyl is the same? Or opposite because of how it sits in the 914? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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Larmo63
post Feb 6 2017, 08:37 PM
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I know, Kent. I had to think if that is the left, or the right.

I'm drinking wine now and I don't really care.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)
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