Uhh-Ohh…., My Ongoing 914 Build Adventures.... Options

[Mblizzard]

Following this closely as I am considering this conversion as well.

Only thing stopping me is time, money, and a long list of other things that have to be done.

[gms]

Going with the front oil cooler for sure……

It's on my list, as is PMO carbs, Clewett ignition system, and the chain oiling system.

This stuff is expensive.

sound like you are getting all the upgrades that I would
I have a new unused set of PMO 40mm on the shelf if you are interested, just would want what I paid for them.

[Larmo63]

I figure, if I do at least a little every day, I might reach my goal.

I did start today cleaning up the engine bay.
I tore out all of the old dried up rubber engine tin seals.
Black is a good color to work with here.
I drilled a single big hole in each of the Patrick mounts, I'm going to bolt it into the firewall first with steel backing plates, then weld it.

"Suspenders and a belt"

[mb911]

Going with the front oil cooler for sure……

It's on my list, as is PMO carbs, Clewett ignition system, and the chain oiling system.

This stuff is expensive.

sound like you are getting all the upgrades that I would
I have a new unused set of PMO 40mm on the shelf if you are interested, just would want what I paid for them.

I remember seeing those on your shelf.. They are very nice..

[mb911]

Yup for sure expensive.. But it's all about the sounds and smells and the whuuur sound of the fan and valve train.

[Chris H.]

Nice progress Lawrence! Down to one car, just a few more wallet-fulls away from a kick ass 6 conversion.

Ben those heat exchanger pipes are a work of art man. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Almost hate to see that covered up!

[Larmo63]

I have a question about extracting the front engine mount studs out of my mag case. I notice Ben's doesn't have anything there.

I'm buying the extraction kit, but do I just crank them out, or use heat? I'd rather go with bolts right into the case. (I think?)

[euro911]

Not sure why you want to change from studs to bolts, but make sure you get the correct length bolts, so you don't bottom-out.

The studs should unscrew fairly easy - I typically just double-nut to remove them. You can spray a penetrating agent on them a day or two ahead of time too.

I'd definitely shy away from torching a magnesium case (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[76-914]

Not sure why you want to change from studs to bolts, but make sure you get the correct length bolts, so you don't bottom-out.

The studs should unscrew fairly easy - I typically just double-nut to remove them. You can spray a penetrating agent on them a day or two ahead of time too.

I'd definitely shy away from torching a magnesium case (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Not sure about the P6. It is advised on Subaru's head gasket repairs as you can increase the torque #'s considerably. I'm sure that theory carries across the board but I'd get an opinion from someone that knows P6's. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Catorse]

No heat required, they just spin right out with the right collet tool. You would NOT replace these with bolts, use bolts only for affixing the case to the yoke, then toss them and put the studs back.

Studs are ALWAYS stronger than bolts in this application which is why Porsche made it like that.

[mb911]

No heat required, they just spin right out with the right collet tool. You would NOT replace these with bolts, use bolts only for affixing the case to the yoke, then toss them and put the studs back.

Studs are ALWAYS stronger than bolts in this application which is why Porsche made it like that.

And the fact that bolts are meant to be removed thus potential for stripping threads etc. For some reason when I got this engine it didn't have studs.. I would like studs but I am using a factory engine mount so I need to search for the correct length.

You can use some heat if needed though it wont hurt anything.. I weld mangnesium at least once a week as I have a pile of fans and housings I am repairing for people.. It can be done safely

[Larmo63]

As far as the long studs on the fan side, I think I'll take out the two lower ones and the upper left side one. The right side can stay. (I'm using the Patrick mount, and it mounts flush.)

I love how when you download a newer version OS to your phone, you have to learn everything over again. For some reason, now I can't upload photos from my phone to my computer so I'm stuck explaining things in words.

[forrestkhaag]

I did the same thing / downloaded new software and my phone lost all data. Restored from the clown (D) and half of my photos are cloudless. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) Apple Sucks but they own the world and work and keep profits off shore to it.

Anyway, Larmo: Your parts look great ( 914-6 conversion parts Blue 6 ..not his parts)

My engine stand is awaiting your arrival for pickup if still needed as my motor is now in reassembly staging in LA with the Vasek Polak mechanic in charge. This is fun stuff and the cost is incidental compared to the living life part.

I like the PMS mount you invested in but will go with the Rich Johnson piece as it is in use on Steve's 3.6 and works fine.

A point is made as to weather or not one would ever take off all of the linkages cables, exhaust or headers and other tidbits just to lower the tranny to access the valves. I did enough valve tuning on my previous 911's to know the motor can stay where it is and accomplish the V-tune.

In the meantime my lowly 2.2L 4 has had a change in life moment for the past two +weeks. The character that built the motor in Dallas put on the build sheet "Weber/Empi" Carbs) for the intake and I didn't know enough at the time to know the word- "scam"..... So the EMIP 40 HPMX carbs (Not Weber) have died yet again / ran great thru rain and driving snow (can you say Flagstaff ramble 2016) for 362 fine days and since then have been a nightmare to keep in tune.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) One day perfect. The next. DayOdd.

And to compound the dead (pronounced DayOdd) 914, one of my 2 ML's has a fried framasetter and is need a dealer infused ensquinchment ERG wobbler to correct the problems. 2500 hundred bucks later, my SUV works fine but the 914 still has EMPI carbs. To correct the problems I offered 2500 hundred bucks to the MBZ oraginazition and for that, my SUV works but the 914 still has EMPI carbs.

To get the 914 on the road again, I dropped a half grand on two brand shiny new REAL Webers for the 4 / this investment made, as I will not enthusiastically drive a Mercedes ML with all of the comforts of home while I sort out the 6 conversion..... which could go on for a while.....

Some call it crazy,... I call it ... romantic. (line from K-Pax)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Sidebar: Its like Christmas. You buy a bunch of cool toys for the kids and a really classy yacht for the wife...but you secretly buy a 911 motor for yourself - and get a present that keeps on giving.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

[76-914]

I like the PMS mount you invested in but will go with the Rich Johnson piece

Damn it all, Lawrence. Now your mount has PMS! You truly are experiencing some bad times. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) Surely it's not Karma (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[euro911]

I heard those PMS mounts:

1. Are extremely difficult to get into the right position to actually mount without liberal massaging

2. Produce a lot of whining and creaking noises the entire time you even attempt to mount it

[Steve]

I heard those PMS mounts:

1. Are extremely difficult to get into the right position to actually mount without liberal massaging

2. Produce a lot of whining and creaking noises the entire time you even attempt to mount it

Those young whipper snappers always have to try something new. LOL
I have Rich Johnson's mount, boxster brake adapters and throttle cable kit. If he sold socks and underwear, I would buy that too!!
I do have a PMS oil cooler, 915 clutch adapter, 911 oil return line and 914-6 throttle cables from him, so i am an equal opportunity purchaser.

[Larmo63]

If Patrick uses their mount on all of the beautiful 914s they build, I think I can too. I like the PM mount as it spreads the weight distribution evenly. We shall see how difficult it is to get the motor in and if it makes any noise. Thanks for the buzzkill.

I have my hands full now with installing the PM oil tank, and detailing the engine compartment.

I can't wait to start grinding in there. Not.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif)

[euro911]

Yes ... grinding comes before mounting (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[914_teener]

No heat required, they just spin right out with the right collet tool. You would NOT replace these with bolts, use bolts only for affixing the case to the yoke, then toss them and put the studs back.

Studs are ALWAYS stronger than bolts in this application which is why Porsche made it like that.

And the fact that bolts are meant to be removed thus potential for stripping threads etc. For some reason when I got this engine it didn't have studs.. I would like studs but I am using a factory engine mount so I need to search for the correct length.

You can use some heat if needed though it wont hurt anything.. I weld mangnesium at least once a week as I have a pile of fans and housings I am repairing for people.. It can be done safely

You are welding it with TIG right?

[Steve]

The PMS mount wasn't available when I replaced my MSDS cross bar motor mount with the Rich Johnson mount 16 years ago. Otherwise I would of looked into it. I used to live in Chandler, AZ and visit Jims shop a lot and druel over all the projects. I wish I had the money to let him build me a ground up restoration dream machine. I ran the MSDS motor mount from 1986 to 2000 and only swapped it out because it didn't support heat exchangers. It only worked with headers.