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> Uhh-Ohh…., My Ongoing 914 Build Adventures....
Larmo63
post Sep 10 2017, 10:23 PM
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The car is up and running, just not running perfectly. The devil is in the details. I may chance it and drive it to Temecula.

Issues:

Most of my gauges are not working at all or not working right, and I hate working under that dash

Carbs are farty and still a bit off, we played with them yesterday

Linkage is shit - hate it

I can't seem to find affordable air cleaners for the Webers

Kind of disappointed in a few things, but I'm moving forward. The tire shop really fuched up two of my beautiful wheels Saturday. It's going to cost her $500 to fix them.
When I'm driving the car and the engine is singing behind me, I'm okay.
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ConeDodger
post Sep 10 2017, 10:24 PM
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Excellent Lawrence! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif)
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porschetub
post Sep 10 2017, 11:12 PM
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QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Sep 11 2017, 04:23 PM) *

The car is up and running, just not running perfectly. The devil is in the details. I may chance it and drive it to Temecula.

Issues:

Most of my gauges are not working at all or not working right, and I hate working under that dash

Carbs are farty and still a bit off, we played with them yesterday

Linkage is shit - hate it

I can't seem to find affordable air cleaners for the Webers

Kind of disappointed in a few things, but I'm moving forward. The tire shop really fuched up two of my beautiful wheels Saturday. It's going to cost her $500 to fix them.
When I'm driving the car and the engine is singing behind me, I'm okay.


Singing behind you ...yep thats what its all about,carbs don't tune in a hurry ...ask me how I know (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) ,if you have no spit back after the engine is warmed you are generally close,any popping @ the exhaust try screwing in the mixture screws slightly if your idle jets are right you will have a good result.
Post what jetting/vent size you have someone may chime in ...just don't run it too rich,again ask me how I know.
Do you have one of these;
Attached Image
And get yourself a PMO float bowl gauge real hand also;
Attached Image
Sure Keith will get on to it ,I'am on my 3rd carb tune and feel I'am closer to that sweet spot,good luck.
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Larmo63
post Sep 11 2017, 12:23 AM
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On the idle jets, we tried 60s and 55s, went back to 60s.

Float bowl levels are perfect, I will list tomorrow.
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gereed75
post Sep 11 2017, 06:37 AM
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I have a 2.4 with 9.5, ported heads to 36mm and DC30 cams.

I put in a fair amount of work on the carb tuning using a wide band O2 sensor. Carbs completely rebuilt and blue printed. Car runs pretty consistently in the 12 to 13 AFR range pretty much everywhere. Can't remember the exact set up but includes 60 idles ,32 venturis, f26 tubes. Will look back at my records later today for the rest.

It still pops farts and snorts. Might be the nature of the beast with these cams and set up.

By the way, love it and it makes plenty of grunt. Smooth and clean down low, surprisingly torquey, with a good surge above 5000 rpm right up to 7200 redline. Nice!

Don't obsess so much - run it!

Oh yea, Not sure if your talking about the carb or shift lineage but I got a Weltmiester short shifter and Chris's shift kit with the extra rear console bearing - shifts pretty nicely once you are in the H. First to second still funky and just needs to be done slowly and deliberately, but no biggie. You know the drill. but I would say that Chris's setup is about as good as it gets.

Have fun man!
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Larmo63
post Sep 11 2017, 11:04 AM
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Paul Abbott recommends:-----------------------------------I have:

34 chokes-----------------------------------------------------34 chokes
145 mains-----------------------------------------------------135 mains
F3 emulsion---------------------------------------------------F26 emulsion
180 air correctors---------------------------------------------180 air correctors
55 idle jets-----------------------------------------------------55 and 60 idle jets (a set of each)

I have Webers, DC-30 cams, and 36mm intake bores......
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Steve
post Sep 11 2017, 11:26 AM
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QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Sep 11 2017, 10:04 AM) *

Paul Abbott recommends:-----------------------------------I have:

34 chokes-----------------------------------------------------34 chokes
145 mains-----------------------------------------------------135 mains
F3 emulsion---------------------------------------------------F26 emulsion
180 air correctors---------------------------------------------180 air correctors
55 idle jets-----------------------------------------------------55 and 60 idle jets (a set of each)

I have Webers, DC-30 cams, and 36mm intake bores......

Interesting... Bruce's book recommends the same thing except it recommends 145 air jets. And all the above was for a 2.7, not a 2.4.
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'73-914kid
post Sep 11 2017, 12:16 PM
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34mm vents are probably a little too big with the DC-30's for street driving.. like ly not enough port velocity at low RPM, especally with the enlarged intake port. I wold go down to a 32, and mimic Bruce's jetting recommendations for a 2.4L with S cams.
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mb911
post Sep 11 2017, 12:40 PM
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Are Dc 30s s cams? Just curious
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JmuRiz
post Sep 11 2017, 02:06 PM
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DC-30 = Mod Solex
DC-40 = Mod S

So basically it's a bit improved over a Solex cam...great for the street!
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Lucky9146
post Sep 11 2017, 02:28 PM
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QUOTE(JmuRiz @ Sep 11 2017, 01:06 PM) *

DC-30 = Mod Solex
DC-40 = Mod S

So basically it's a bit improved over a Solex cam...great for the street!



Can't wait to hear my 3.0 with DC40's and 40 Solex's run. Hoping for a month!

And hearing Larmo63 engine at Temecula for inspiration!
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Larmo63
post Sep 11 2017, 05:31 PM
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I just took out the idle jets to downsize to 55s, but discovered that I had 5 55s and one 60. So I stayed with the 60s for now. I fiddled some with the linkage, and what I did made a huge improvement in performance and the initial flat spot. I didn't have the linkage set up quite right per Rich Johnson's instructions. I fixed that today. I drove the car and it really REALLY is improving.

One note, I let the clutch cable out (loosened) a few turns, it seems like it clutches closer to the floor.

Was I supposed to tighten the cable? It goes against my thought process....
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Steve
post Sep 11 2017, 08:33 PM
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Tightening the cable reduces the freeplay which makes it engage and disengage closer to you versus the floor. I adjust for 1/2" freeplay
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IronHillRestorations
post Sep 11 2017, 09:12 PM
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If you have the venturis and jets, I'd probably try 32's with 145 mains, 180 air, and 60 idle, and stick with the F3's. You'll give up a smidgen on the top end, but improve transition between idles and mains. Emulsion tubes can make more of a difference than a lot of guys realize, F26 or F11's could make a difference. Of course getting a bunch of jets, venturi, and e-tubes gets spendy. One tip here: change only 1 thing at a time or you'll have a difficult time dialing it in.

You don't want your clutch cable too loose, or you'll smoke the friction disc. Steve is on the money, get it down to 1/2 of free play, then you adjust the stop on the pedal board so when you stop, clutch, and shift to R it doesn't grind. It's kind of a PITA but you should only have to do it once.

If you want you can give me a call tomorrow Lawrence, I might be able to help a bit.
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Catorse
post Sep 12 2017, 09:58 AM
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QUOTE(Maltese Falcon @ Sep 8 2017, 02:15 PM) *

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Sep 7 2017, 08:45 PM) *

I gassed up the car, drove over to Catorse's house (Adam) and really put the car through it's paces.

It needs a bit of carburetor attention, but still, does it ever accelerate!!!

I'm really happy with where I'm at with it, even if it's off a bit. It gives me something to tinker with. I just hope I can get it reigned in for the fun day thing in Temecula next - next weekend.

I already have tuning plans for this weekend........


Best regards to Adam !....MSDS equipped Gen-2 928 racing headers on his rare 928 racer (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
Marty


Back at you buddy!
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forrestkhaag
post Sep 12 2017, 10:14 AM
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I will see you at keiths place this afternoon / I will pick up spare Venturi's if you want to try them out.,.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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Larmo63
post Sep 13 2017, 10:16 AM
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We had the carbs off of the car and were taking them apart when Forrest showed up with the "do you want the good news or the bad news first?" comment. He brought 30 chokes, so we will try to source some 32s today. I put 55 idles in, car ran lousy on the way home. I'll put the 60s back in. Cause and effect.

Forrest and Keith

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gereed75
post Sep 13 2017, 10:55 AM
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Sorry I forgot to check my carb specs. I do know the 55 idles just do not work. Tried that.

Definitely have 60's, 32, F26 in mine and I think 145 mains and 180 airs. Getting the 32 venturi's might be key to get the right velocities so all the jets/secondaries work right.

Getting the carbs right is like building a building - foundation must be sound or you are wasting your time. Start with good linkages (blueprinted), then right fuel pressure (3 psi), Then the right throttle plate height (once you get this do not change it!), then right float levels (blue printed floats). Then accel pump output, Then idles and venturis.

If you get all that then you tune using airs, mains and tubes. .....and then if you get all that right..... flat six nirvana!!

If you don't....... crap! It can be a serious PITA. Be patient and thorough. Performance Oriented tech docs are really good!!
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Steve
post Sep 13 2017, 10:58 AM
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Have you seen this jet page?
https://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs/Web...et_Settings.htm
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euro911
post Sep 13 2017, 11:18 AM
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Thanks for linking the jet chart, Steve. Those #s will come in handy for re-jetting some carbs for the 912 (1.7L big-bore) motors (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)


Lawrence, do you have an AF meter there? I can bring a LM-2 kit yo the Temecula gig (if I can remember where I put it) ...

Maybe you should have subscribed to JET magazine (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
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