About that washer under the pivot ball for tranny Options

[Amphicar770]

Hi All,

Trying to clarify what is either my understanding or my misunderstanding.

It is suggested to install a washer under the pivot ball when flywheel has been refaced.

I thought I saw somewhere that the washer can alternatively be placed under the plastic cup for the arm. That of course causes the cup to protrude a bit and not sit flush.

Is this correct or, since I already put it there, do I need to order a new cup before I mate tranny back to engine.

Also, while I understand the washer helps ensure clutch fully disengages, what is the downside to installing the washer if it is not actually needed?

Thanks.

Mike

[SirAndy]

Never heard anyone trying to shim the cup. Seems like asking for trouble, the cup should be snug and flush.

The washer behind the pivot simply moves the range of where the lever engages relative to the opening where it protrudes from the transmission.

Too many shims can result in the lever hitting the transmission case before the clutch is fully disengaged but you'll need quite a few shims before that happens.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[r_towle]

The washer or shim goes under the pivot ball ONLY.

Do not shim out the cup, that could be dangerous if it falls off.

The shim needs to be the same thickness of what your machinist removed from,the flywheel.

Rich

[Amphicar770]

Thanks,

Just ordered new cup so will redo it before putting tranny back in.

No idea how much they took off of the flywheel so will just have to go with standard washer. I would hope that the tolerance is not so narrow that the thickness of washer makes a huge difference. I have to think that if tolerance was that narrow that many more people would be having issues.

[tomrev]

It's pretty simple to slide the box against the engine, and run on one or 2 bolts to hold in place. Then you can see how your clutch arm "fits"in the opening. If it's already using half the opening when you move it so the TOB contacts the clutch surface, you will need to add a washer under the ball stud, to move the fork towards the engine, to get more motion. If it still needs more, R&R, and add a second washer. In my case, with a new Kennedy flywheel, I had to use 2 washers under the stud before I had the range of motion needed. With my box bolted to the engine, and TOB touching the clutch fingers, I have 1/4 in. opening on the engine side of the hole. This allows me to have a functioning, correctly adjusted clutch. Remember to use blue locktight, or some thread sealer on the stud, so you don't have any gear lube leaking there.

[Mike D.]

Shimming the plastic cup on the arm is old school solution. But we used to use a dime not a washer. A washer would cause the center of the plastic cup to fail with no support under it.
Don't anyone do this, I'm not suggesting anything... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

ps - I also never made my own free short shift kit with a drill and some washers...

[r_towle]

Thanks,

Just ordered new cup so will redo it before putting tranny back in.

No idea how much they took off of the flywheel so will just have to go with standard washer. I would hope that the tolerance is not so narrow that the thickness of washer makes a huge difference. I have to think that if tolerance was that narrow that many more people would be having issues.

Search here, or look in the Haynes manual
There is a pic with the measurements for stock, and tolerances for cutting till it's junk.

Then see what you have.
I have also seen people bend the clutch release fork....