My 1973 2.0 Flared Restoration, A Journey of a Thousand Miles Begins With a Single Step...and Lots of Bondo Removal |
|
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG.
This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way. Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners. |
|
My 1973 2.0 Flared Restoration, A Journey of a Thousand Miles Begins With a Single Step...and Lots of Bondo Removal |
VWTortuga336 |
Apr 29 2016, 08:40 AM
Post
#1
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 285 Joined: 5-October 14 From: Kansas City, Missouri Member No.: 17,979 Region Association: None |
So here's my 2nd 914 in 2 years. And I've still never driven one! Here's to hoping I have the intestinal fortitude to take this one across the finish line within a few years. My 1st 914 was a 1974 that hadn't moved in ~15 years. After doing some of the fun stuff (engine removal, started the rebuild process, new brakes, etc.), I realized it was too far gone for me at that time. I had a small garage, no welder and no time to work on it. Now, I have a much bigger work space, more tools and I just competed my MBA, so lots more free time (more is a relative term here). Now I have a 1973 2.0L with steel flares.
I haven't had time yet to take a real deep dive into it yet (still unpacking stuff in our new house) but here's what I can tell so far: The good: 1. 2.0L engine with new "Webers" (I was told they were legit, but they aren't) 2. Steel flares. They actually look like they were installed pretty decently 3. Interior looks to be in decent shape 4. Center gauge console with 2 CHT gauges, oil pressure and oil temp 5. Momo steering wheel 6. Wide 4 lug wheels - not sure what kind 7. Floors and trunks look to be solid 8. Hell hole isn't totally shot - still some repair work needed 9. Battery already relocated to front trunk The bad: 1. Longs are totally shot - going to install Brad Mayeur kit 2. Paint/body work is HORRIBLE 3. Engine only has compression on 3 cylinders and smoked BADLY 4. Steel rocker covers are welded to the car 5. Lots and lots and lots of bondo on the joints between the car and the rocker covers 6. Passenger side door is rusty Here's my plan of attack, at least until I find lots more issues that may make me change course: 1. Fix all the rust 2. Finish building my 2366 engine 3. Do body work and paint prep 4. Paint Ravenna green 5. Do 5 lug conversion w/ 5 spoke Fuchs I'll have tons of questions for this great group as I go through this project, so thank you everyone in advance for your advice and encouragement. So here's are the first, but far from the last, questions I have: has anyone had any experience removing rockers like this? Aside from measure twice (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) once, any other pieces of advice as I start this rust repair? Will it be better for me to leave the doors installed to set the gap, or weld in braces? |
VWTortuga336 |
Apr 29 2016, 12:44 PM
Post
#2
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 285 Joined: 5-October 14 From: Kansas City, Missouri Member No.: 17,979 Region Association: None |
I suggest also that you first begin finding out what the engine problem is, in hopes that there are not major problems, it might be a quick fix, such as just adjusting the valves. Once it's running and if there are no major problems......DRIVE THAT BABY and enjoy the ride for a while as you continue to sort things out. As you probibly already know, once they go up on the Jack Stands they tend to resist coming down. Unfortunately, the longs are bad enough that I don't trust them enough to drive it before they are fixed. On the up side, I have almost all the parts for my 2366 build (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Please do a complete chassis inspection for rust that is not readily apparent. Before you invest a ton of time doing other things, make sure the "foundation" is good. I don't necessarily think welding a stiffening kit on is the correct fix if the underlying structure is bad. That is just covering up the problem with a band aide. I am not saying you would do that, just saying I have seen some cars "fixed" that way and in the long run it may not be the best result. Definitely going to fix all the rust issues before trying to do anything else. That was my mistake on my last 914. I had to learn my lesson the hard way. I was under the impression that Brad's kit was designed for repairing the longs. I was going to cut out all the rot, treat the metal with anti-rust product and install the kit. Is that the wrong way to go? Is the original color Ravenna Green? Either way great choice. I don't think it was the original color. But definitely my favorite! When it's all said and done, it'll be a '73 flared Ravenna green car with a 2.4L engine, Supertrapp muffler, headers and matte re-pop Fuchs. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif) |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 10th May 2024 - 04:35 AM |
All rights reserved 914World.com © since 2002 |
914World.com is the fastest growing online 914 community! We have it all, classifieds, events, forums, vendors, parts, autocross, racing, technical articles, events calendar, newsletter, restoration, gallery, archives, history and more for your Porsche 914 ... |