My 1973 2.0 Flared Restoration, A Journey of a Thousand Miles Begins With a Single Step...and Lots of Bondo Removal |
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My 1973 2.0 Flared Restoration, A Journey of a Thousand Miles Begins With a Single Step...and Lots of Bondo Removal |
VWTortuga336 |
Apr 29 2016, 08:40 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 285 Joined: 5-October 14 From: Kansas City, Missouri Member No.: 17,979 Region Association: None |
So here's my 2nd 914 in 2 years. And I've still never driven one! Here's to hoping I have the intestinal fortitude to take this one across the finish line within a few years. My 1st 914 was a 1974 that hadn't moved in ~15 years. After doing some of the fun stuff (engine removal, started the rebuild process, new brakes, etc.), I realized it was too far gone for me at that time. I had a small garage, no welder and no time to work on it. Now, I have a much bigger work space, more tools and I just competed my MBA, so lots more free time (more is a relative term here). Now I have a 1973 2.0L with steel flares.
I haven't had time yet to take a real deep dive into it yet (still unpacking stuff in our new house) but here's what I can tell so far: The good: 1. 2.0L engine with new "Webers" (I was told they were legit, but they aren't) 2. Steel flares. They actually look like they were installed pretty decently 3. Interior looks to be in decent shape 4. Center gauge console with 2 CHT gauges, oil pressure and oil temp 5. Momo steering wheel 6. Wide 4 lug wheels - not sure what kind 7. Floors and trunks look to be solid 8. Hell hole isn't totally shot - still some repair work needed 9. Battery already relocated to front trunk The bad: 1. Longs are totally shot - going to install Brad Mayeur kit 2. Paint/body work is HORRIBLE 3. Engine only has compression on 3 cylinders and smoked BADLY 4. Steel rocker covers are welded to the car 5. Lots and lots and lots of bondo on the joints between the car and the rocker covers 6. Passenger side door is rusty Here's my plan of attack, at least until I find lots more issues that may make me change course: 1. Fix all the rust 2. Finish building my 2366 engine 3. Do body work and paint prep 4. Paint Ravenna green 5. Do 5 lug conversion w/ 5 spoke Fuchs I'll have tons of questions for this great group as I go through this project, so thank you everyone in advance for your advice and encouragement. So here's are the first, but far from the last, questions I have: has anyone had any experience removing rockers like this? Aside from measure twice (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) once, any other pieces of advice as I start this rust repair? Will it be better for me to leave the doors installed to set the gap, or weld in braces? |
Cairo94507 |
Apr 29 2016, 05:03 PM
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#2
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Michael Group: Members Posts: 9,741 Joined: 1-November 08 From: Auburn, CA Member No.: 9,712 Region Association: Northern California |
I am sure Brad's kit will work so long as you have something to weld to. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) He is well respected in our community and has been making and installing that kit for years, likely decades.
I am biased in that I like to see the longs repaired to their original configuration first so if you remove the rockers it is all stock in appearance. I just believe do it once, do it right and then you never have to address it again. That is what Scotty (ScottyB) did on my car and then we added the interior chassis stiffening kit which essentially becomes invisible once the interior is installed. However, I realize that is going to add up quickly and may likely kill your budget. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ar15.gif) If your car is going to be a driver street car, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) I see no problems. I agree with the earlier comment about removing the bondo to see what lies beneath though. Even though it is going to be a mess, better to remove it and repair any rust or possible poor workmanship, so that once you fix and paint it you know it is not going to bubble up with rust 1 year later. These cars really are a slippery slope... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) I started off with my Six planning to just do brakes, fix oil leaks, SS fuel lines, tires, sort electrical and then drive it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) . However once I started to do the math, it just made no sense to do all that knowing it had some rust that needed to be addressed. In the end I jumped into the extremely deep end of the pool (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) . Here we are coming up on 4 years in May that my car has been with Scotty and it is finally getting close to color and then assembly. I hope. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) Believe me, if these cars were not in my blood since I was 18, and I had not already owned 3 other 914's, two of which were original '70 Sixes, I would likely have never embarked on my project. But I truly love these little go carts and always wanted a '71 Six. I wanted to do a complete car to my wants and wishes. Even though the prices of these cars are heading to the stratosphere I have no plans to sell my car. Once I am a dribbling old fool (maybe 10 years if I am lucky, my wife's opinion my differ on that.....) then my wife, brother or son can do what they want with it so long as I am unable to comprehend it. Given the length of this post, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/type.gif) maybe 10 years was overly optimistic (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) |
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