My 1973 2.0 Flared Restoration, A Journey of a Thousand Miles Begins With a Single Step...and Lots of Bondo Removal |
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My 1973 2.0 Flared Restoration, A Journey of a Thousand Miles Begins With a Single Step...and Lots of Bondo Removal |
Cairo94507 |
May 27 2016, 08:33 PM
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#21
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Michael Group: Members Posts: 9,650 Joined: 1-November 08 From: Auburn, CA Member No.: 9,712 Region Association: Northern California |
Seriously, it is all about focus and organization. Best wishes.
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VWTortuga336 |
Jun 29 2016, 08:16 PM
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#22
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Member Group: Members Posts: 285 Joined: 5-October 14 From: Kansas City, Missouri Member No.: 17,979 Region Association: None |
Slowly making progress - engine is out and still knocking out bondo. I'll be cutting off the welded on rocker covers soon and I'm looking for a good reference to measure off of and figure out how much to cut off so I can go back to bolt on rocker covers.
Does anyone have a measurement from the door sill to the rocker cover top? Soon it will be time to order Brad's long repair kit (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif) |
designerguy90 |
Jul 1 2016, 12:15 PM
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#23
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Member Group: Members Posts: 52 Joined: 21-July 14 From: Chicagoland Member No.: 17,666 Region Association: None |
Brads long kit is very easy to install, I did it on my car and it turned out pretty well.
Best of luck! |
VWTortuga336 |
Jul 19 2016, 09:45 AM
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#24
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Member Group: Members Posts: 285 Joined: 5-October 14 From: Kansas City, Missouri Member No.: 17,979 Region Association: None |
I got the passenger side rocker cover cut off. Long is in pretty sad shape, as I suspected it would be. Looks like I'll be adding quite a bit of metal before I am ready for Brad's kit.
Gotta hold back the urge to (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) at the sight of this and push forward! |
mbseto |
Jul 19 2016, 10:16 AM
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#25
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,253 Joined: 6-August 14 From: Cincy Member No.: 17,743 Region Association: North East States |
Wow. Mine looks pretty similar to that, just exorcised it:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=2368414 Stand strong... |
mb911 |
Jul 19 2016, 10:43 AM
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#26
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,748 Joined: 2-January 09 From: Burlington wi Member No.: 9,892 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Just take your time it really is about the journey. Mine is very similar in condition but I have replaced both longs and have fanned my own internal chassis reinforcement like enggman set up.. Each day I do about 45minutes of work on it so that it does not become a job. Goal so to be rust free by spring and rolling so we can put our house on the market.. ( too much land right now to take care of)
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VWTortuga336 |
Aug 11 2016, 08:31 AM
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#27
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Member Group: Members Posts: 285 Joined: 5-October 14 From: Kansas City, Missouri Member No.: 17,979 Region Association: None |
The car's about 80% stripped down now. All that's left to remove is the wiring harness, dash, brake fluid reservoir, windshield wiper motor, glass and some trim.
Since my last update, there is some good news and of course some (rust related) bad news. Bad news - front bumper mounting holes are shot, front trunk has a few holes, rear trunk has a few holes, floor has a few holes. Nothing too major, but I was told by the seller the only rust issue was the longs - I should have known better! Good news - since I was considering selling my 2366 engine, I needed to make sure the 2.0L that was in the car is in decent shape. When I got the car, it ran horribly - no compression on 1 cylinder. When I started the tear down last night, the spark plug on the offending cylinder was hanging on by about 1 thread. Pulled the head off that side and found 96mm pistions/cylinders and 48/38mm valves in the heads. The cam looks great as well. So hopefully I won't have to invest too much in this engine to get it going again. That also means the 2366 is 100% for sale. The plan at this point is to finish the strip down, put it up on jack stands, build a frame for the rear so I can adjust the door gap, install door braces and start the repair of the longs. I also found a rotisserie I can borrow, so as soon as the longs are done, the suspension is coming off and the car is going on it. |
Chris H. |
Aug 11 2016, 09:46 AM
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#28
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 4,024 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Chicago 'burbs Member No.: 73 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Good news - since I was considering selling my 2366 engine, I needed to make sure the 2.0L that was in the car is in decent shape. When I got the car, it ran horribly - no compression on 1 cylinder. When I started the tear down last night, the spark plug on the offending cylinder was hanging on by about 1 thread. Pulled the head off that side and found 96mm pistions/cylinders and 48/38mm valves in the heads. The cam looks great as well. So hopefully I won't have to invest too much in this engine to get it going again. That also means the 2366 is 100% for sale. That is EXACTLY what happened to my 1.8. Thought it was running like crap, was ready to pull it out, then found that the plug wire was the problem. That thing might be totally fine. When I replaced the wire mine was back to normal. |
VWTortuga336 |
Aug 21 2016, 08:10 AM
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#29
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Member Group: Members Posts: 285 Joined: 5-October 14 From: Kansas City, Missouri Member No.: 17,979 Region Association: None |
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JRust |
Aug 21 2016, 09:44 AM
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#30
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,305 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Corvallis Oregon Member No.: 129 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Keep plugging away at it. I like the plan of doing 45min a day. Doing the long weekends get's old quick. Doing a little each day is a good plan. To easy with projects for them to sit for weeks then months then years. Keep up the good work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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VWTortuga336 |
Aug 28 2016, 04:25 PM
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#31
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Member Group: Members Posts: 285 Joined: 5-October 14 From: Kansas City, Missouri Member No.: 17,979 Region Association: None |
Before I start cutting out all this rot on the longs, should I add more bracing? I did my best to show what I was thinking in these pics. The braces would weld on just below the seat belt bolts on the firewall and on the inner longs right in front of the doors.
Also, the Pelican instructions for installing Brad's long repair kit say that you should adjust the door gap by using a jack on the transmission to raise and lower the rear of the car. My engine and transmission are out, so I was thinking of building a triangular wooden structure and using my jack to do the job. Since I have adjustable door braces in, can I just use them to set the gap, or do I need to use the jack method? |
SirAndy |
Aug 28 2016, 04:34 PM
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#32
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,581 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
I don't think the kit from Brad was meant to be used in this application. I'd rather use the pieces from RD.
Also, check your floor pans, they have already been patched (badly). I also see patches on the inner longs and inner rear firewall. Don't trust ANYTHING the PO has done to this car ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) |
VWTortuga336 |
Aug 28 2016, 05:07 PM
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#33
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Member Group: Members Posts: 285 Joined: 5-October 14 From: Kansas City, Missouri Member No.: 17,979 Region Association: None |
I had gotten the same feedback from other members as well. I called Brad to verify and his kit will work for me. I may have to add some metal in to make sure I have something to weld his kit onto.
I'm thinking multiple POs welded on this car. Some of the patches look really good, some look really really bad. Those will be cut out and redone. Some rust holes were filled with bondo (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) |
jmitro |
Aug 28 2016, 09:30 PM
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#34
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 713 Joined: 23-July 15 From: Oklahoma Member No.: 18,986 Region Association: None |
Before I start cutting out all this rot on the longs, should I add more bracing? I did my best to show what I was thinking in these pics. The braces would weld on just below the seat belt bolts on the firewall and on the inner longs right in front of the doors. My preference is not to make any welds on anything that is only temporary. My door bracing is bolted to the door hinge brackets, not welded to the wall. I wouldn't think X bracing is needed; only the side bracing |
JoeDees |
Aug 28 2016, 09:50 PM
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#35
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 515 Joined: 10-November 14 From: Northern Kentucky Member No.: 18,106 Region Association: None |
Brad's kit would probably work, but I agree with SirAndy and think that with that much missing from the longs the RD pieces would be more appropriate. But that's just my opinion.
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mbseto |
Aug 29 2016, 10:44 AM
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#36
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,253 Joined: 6-August 14 From: Cincy Member No.: 17,743 Region Association: North East States |
I'll cast a vote for more bracing. My longs look a lot like yours and I've got a rigid dolly bolted to the suspension points in all four corners holding it square and fairly planar, and I have two door braces in each door. It's STILL a little more flexy than I would like it.
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matthepcat |
Aug 29 2016, 05:45 PM
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#37
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Meat Popsicle Group: Members Posts: 1,462 Joined: 13-December 09 From: Saratoga CA Member No.: 11,125 Region Association: Northern California |
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VWTortuga336 |
Aug 29 2016, 07:18 PM
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#38
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Member Group: Members Posts: 285 Joined: 5-October 14 From: Kansas City, Missouri Member No.: 17,979 Region Association: None |
Nah, that's no fun. I'd rather cut out and fix lots of rust! |
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