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> My 1973 2.0 Flared Restoration, A Journey of a Thousand Miles Begins With a Single Step...and Lots of Bondo Removal
Cairo94507
post May 27 2016, 08:33 PM
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Seriously, it is all about focus and organization. Best wishes.
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VWTortuga336
post Jun 29 2016, 08:16 PM
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Slowly making progress - engine is out and still knocking out bondo. I'll be cutting off the welded on rocker covers soon and I'm looking for a good reference to measure off of and figure out how much to cut off so I can go back to bolt on rocker covers.

Does anyone have a measurement from the door sill to the rocker cover top?


Soon it will be time to order Brad's long repair kit (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)
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designerguy90
post Jul 1 2016, 12:15 PM
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Brads long kit is very easy to install, I did it on my car and it turned out pretty well.

Best of luck!
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VWTortuga336
post Jul 19 2016, 09:45 AM
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I got the passenger side rocker cover cut off. Long is in pretty sad shape, as I suspected it would be. Looks like I'll be adding quite a bit of metal before I am ready for Brad's kit.

Gotta hold back the urge to (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) at the sight of this and push forward!

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mbseto
post Jul 19 2016, 10:16 AM
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Wow. Mine looks pretty similar to that, just exorcised it:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=2368414

Stand strong...
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mb911
post Jul 19 2016, 10:43 AM
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Just take your time it really is about the journey. Mine is very similar in condition but I have replaced both longs and have fanned my own internal chassis reinforcement like enggman set up.. Each day I do about 45minutes of work on it so that it does not become a job. Goal so to be rust free by spring and rolling so we can put our house on the market.. ( too much land right now to take care of)

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VWTortuga336
post Aug 11 2016, 08:31 AM
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The car's about 80% stripped down now. All that's left to remove is the wiring harness, dash, brake fluid reservoir, windshield wiper motor, glass and some trim.

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Since my last update, there is some good news and of course some (rust related) bad news.

Bad news - front bumper mounting holes are shot, front trunk has a few holes, rear trunk has a few holes, floor has a few holes. Nothing too major, but I was told by the seller the only rust issue was the longs - I should have known better!

Good news - since I was considering selling my 2366 engine, I needed to make sure the 2.0L that was in the car is in decent shape. When I got the car, it ran horribly - no compression on 1 cylinder. When I started the tear down last night, the spark plug on the offending cylinder was hanging on by about 1 thread. Pulled the head off that side and found 96mm pistions/cylinders and 48/38mm valves in the heads. The cam looks great as well. So hopefully I won't have to invest too much in this engine to get it going again. That also means the 2366 is 100% for sale.

The plan at this point is to finish the strip down, put it up on jack stands, build a frame for the rear so I can adjust the door gap, install door braces and start the repair of the longs.

I also found a rotisserie I can borrow, so as soon as the longs are done, the suspension is coming off and the car is going on it.
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Chris H.
post Aug 11 2016, 09:46 AM
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QUOTE(VWTortuga336 @ Aug 11 2016, 09:31 AM) *


Good news - since I was considering selling my 2366 engine, I needed to make sure the 2.0L that was in the car is in decent shape. When I got the car, it ran horribly - no compression on 1 cylinder. When I started the tear down last night, the spark plug on the offending cylinder was hanging on by about 1 thread. Pulled the head off that side and found 96mm pistions/cylinders and 48/38mm valves in the heads. The cam looks great as well. So hopefully I won't have to invest too much in this engine to get it going again. That also means the 2366 is 100% for sale.



That is EXACTLY what happened to my 1.8. Thought it was running like crap, was ready to pull it out, then found that the plug wire was the problem. That thing might be totally fine. When I replaced the wire mine was back to normal.
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VWTortuga336
post Aug 21 2016, 08:10 AM
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The car is stripped and I just got the door braces in. The welds look like crap, but look like they will hold just fine. And for my first welds on the car, I am relatively happy with them.

Next step is to get the car up on jack stands to begin installing the Brad long repair kit.

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JRust
post Aug 21 2016, 09:44 AM
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Keep plugging away at it. I like the plan of doing 45min a day. Doing the long weekends get's old quick. Doing a little each day is a good plan. To easy with projects for them to sit for weeks then months then years. Keep up the good work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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VWTortuga336
post Aug 28 2016, 04:25 PM
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Before I start cutting out all this rot on the longs, should I add more bracing? I did my best to show what I was thinking in these pics. The braces would weld on just below the seat belt bolts on the firewall and on the inner longs right in front of the doors.

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Also, the Pelican instructions for installing Brad's long repair kit say that you should adjust the door gap by using a jack on the transmission to raise and lower the rear of the car. My engine and transmission are out, so I was thinking of building a triangular wooden structure and using my jack to do the job. Since I have adjustable door braces in, can I just use them to set the gap, or do I need to use the jack method?
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SirAndy
post Aug 28 2016, 04:34 PM
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I don't think the kit from Brad was meant to be used in this application. I'd rather use the pieces from RD.

Also, check your floor pans, they have already been patched (badly). I also see patches on the inner longs and inner rear firewall.

Don't trust ANYTHING the PO has done to this car ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
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VWTortuga336
post Aug 28 2016, 05:07 PM
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I had gotten the same feedback from other members as well. I called Brad to verify and his kit will work for me. I may have to add some metal in to make sure I have something to weld his kit onto.

I'm thinking multiple POs welded on this car. Some of the patches look really good, some look really really bad. Those will be cut out and redone. Some rust holes were filled with bondo (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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jmitro
post Aug 28 2016, 09:30 PM
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QUOTE(VWTortuga336 @ Aug 28 2016, 05:25 PM) *

Before I start cutting out all this rot on the longs, should I add more bracing? I did my best to show what I was thinking in these pics. The braces would weld on just below the seat belt bolts on the firewall and on the inner longs right in front of the doors.


My preference is not to make any welds on anything that is only temporary. My door bracing is bolted to the door hinge brackets, not welded to the wall.

I wouldn't think X bracing is needed; only the side bracing
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JoeDees
post Aug 28 2016, 09:50 PM
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Brad's kit would probably work, but I agree with SirAndy and think that with that much missing from the longs the RD pieces would be more appropriate. But that's just my opinion.
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mbseto
post Aug 29 2016, 10:44 AM
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I'll cast a vote for more bracing. My longs look a lot like yours and I've got a rigid dolly bolted to the suspension points in all four corners holding it square and fairly planar, and I have two door braces in each door. It's STILL a little more flexy than I would like it.
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matthepcat
post Aug 29 2016, 05:45 PM
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Still not too late to buy this:

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/5709594012.html
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VWTortuga336
post Aug 29 2016, 07:18 PM
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QUOTE(matthepcat @ Aug 29 2016, 06:45 PM) *


Nah, that's no fun. I'd rather cut out and fix lots of rust!
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