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> Engine is in ... Next question
snakemain
post May 14 2016, 05:27 PM
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Yes
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injunmort
post May 14 2016, 05:29 PM
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yes they go to the positive terminal on the battery
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r_towle
post May 14 2016, 10:52 PM
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Status!
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Amphicar770
post May 16 2016, 09:14 AM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ May 15 2016, 12:52 AM) *

Status!


Thwarted by a $5 part.

New fuel pump is in, tank is back in. For the new pump I need about 2' of 1/2 inch fuel hose between pump inlet and filter that is also used as step down.


After checking a half dozen FLAPS, I wound up ordering the needed hose from RockAuto. Probably will not be here until Wednesday. Oh well, that gives me time to adjust the rear calipers.

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76-914
post May 16 2016, 04:45 PM
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QUOTE(Amphicar770 @ May 14 2016, 04:23 PM) *

The answer to this seems obvious but since the repercussion of getting it wrong is high I will ask the stupid question.

The bunch of red wires that attaches to the battery terminal. That does go on the positive terminal, correct?



Do yourself a favor and fuse those unfused circuits. Project is looking good. I like your "other" cars website, too. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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Amphicar770
post May 16 2016, 05:06 PM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ May 16 2016, 06:45 PM) *

QUOTE(Amphicar770 @ May 14 2016, 04:23 PM) *

The answer to this seems obvious but since the repercussion of getting it wrong is high I will ask the stupid question.

The bunch of red wires that attaches to the battery terminal. That does go on the positive terminal, correct?



Do yourself a favor and fuse those unfused circuits. Project is looking good. I like your "other" cars website, too. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)


What do you recommend? In line fuse on each wire, something else. What amperage are they and where do they lead to?

Thx
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r_towle
post May 16 2016, 10:42 PM
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So close...

What other cars website?
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Amphicar770
post May 17 2016, 05:55 AM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ May 17 2016, 12:42 AM) *

So close...

What other cars website?


That would be, www.amphicar770.com
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Amphicar770
post May 18 2016, 04:31 PM
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OK guys, advice needed.

Got fuel system hooked up last night. Today I went to start her up. She is still on jackstands at the rear.

After cranking for a bit she did fire up. Idle is good. Not sure if it sounded "right", had me wondering if firing on all cylinders. I turned her off.

Went back a bit later. Started her up. She started, did a loud backfire through the exhaust and stopped. I have not tried starting again.

Hopefully nothing with the valve adjust. Am wondering if I could have crossed some spark plug wires. Is there a good diagram mapping position of wire on distributor to matching cylinder?

Anything else I should consider?

Ok, just started it again. A slight miss then seemed ok. I put a video here (crappy) but take a listen. Does it sound right to you?
https://youtu.be/rYpMaJCDyes

Thanks,

Mike
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Amphicar770
post May 18 2016, 06:01 PM
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Here is a second video. I start her cold and she starts right up. However, as I depress the accelerator you can hear the backfire. Ideas appreciated.

https://youtu.be/olyeeDuJh0k
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r_towle
post May 18 2016, 06:47 PM
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Not all four, start with the basics to make sure you have spark at every cylinder, then pull the valve covers and wiggle all the rockers
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Amphicar770
post May 18 2016, 08:26 PM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ May 18 2016, 08:47 PM) *

Not all four, start with the basics to make sure you have spark at every cylinder, then pull the valve covers and wiggle all the rockers


On the rockers, what am I checking for when I wiggle them? I presume I am looking to see that the rods are properly seated?

I have confirmed that wires are correct from plugs to distributor.

For testing plugs, just use an inline spark plug tester???

Thanks. Really frustrating after getting this far.

For what it is worth:

Plugs (NGK), Wires (Magnecor), Distributor cap and rotor (rev limiting) are all new.

NOS MPS and NOS Decelleration valve.

New wiring harness from Bruce.

Adjusted valves when I did the pushrod tubes (they were pretty close, only minor adjustment)

Injectors are new, although I had installed them and used them prior to engine drop.

New fuel pump, all new fuel lines.

New HTS

Has pertronix (or similar under the cap).

I did not do anything with ignition timing but also have not checked it since engine back in.

The TPS board is new but again, was replaced prior to engine drop and was working.

Vacuum hoses are all new as are gaskets under the throttle body.

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r_towle
post May 18 2016, 08:31 PM
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If you hav a timing light I would suggest you cli it on each plug wire to see if it's doing its thing...

For th rockers, take off the valve cover...
There are four rockers.....is one different?
Look for obvious.

From what I hear, something is very loose in the valve train.

Rich
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Dave_Darling
post May 18 2016, 08:41 PM
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Plug wires: If the distributor drive is in the "correct" orientation, the two plug wires on the left side must cross over each other. (Left-front tower on the cap goes to left-rear spark plug.) The two plug wires on the right do not have to cross. (Right-front cap tower goes to right-front plug.)

--DD
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r_towle
post May 18 2016, 08:47 PM
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Good point, it's something WE ALL have done.

Firing order is 1432 clockwise when looking down on top of the distributor cap.
1 will be closest to the middle of the fan housing.
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Amphicar770
post May 18 2016, 08:57 PM
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QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ May 18 2016, 10:41 PM) *

Plug wires: If the distributor drive is in the "correct" orientation, the two plug wires on the left side must cross over each other. (Left-front tower on the cap goes to left-rear spark plug.) The two plug wires on the right do not have to cross. (Right-front cap tower goes to right-front plug.)

--DD


Found one of your earlier postings and checked that this evening. Wires are going to proper plug. (even removed the air cleaner just to make sure I was following the wires correctly).

Did not see anything unusual when I removed valve covers. Rods are seated in rockers. I did not rotate engine but some have play, others do not as would be expected based on engine position. When I did do valve adjust, none were off by very much.

I did not adjust or check ignition timing but I suppose it is possible that the distributor moved and I should check that as well??

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r_towle
post May 18 2016, 09:03 PM
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One is not firing.
Firing order wrong would do that.

Loud backfire could mean raw fuel in exhaust.
That could mean one of the valves is not closing properly.
So, it might feel like it's ok, but it's possible one of the push rods is not seated properly in the lifter and is sitting sort of on the edge of the cup.

When the valve is closed, you should be able to reach under each rocker and Spin each push rod all the way around, easily and with no resistance....because there should be a valid gap for th tappets.

Rich
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r_towle
post May 18 2016, 09:04 PM
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If one of the push rods won't spin, loosen it up at the adjuster while trying to spin it....it may seat.
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Amphicar770
post May 18 2016, 09:25 PM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ May 18 2016, 11:03 PM) *

One is not firing.
Firing order wrong would do that.

Loud backfire could mean raw fuel in exhaust.
That could mean one of the valves is not closing properly.
So, it might feel like it's ok, but it's possible one of the push rods is not seated properly in the lifter and is sitting sort of on the edge of the cup.

When the valve is closed, you should be able to reach under each rocker and Spin each push rod all the way around, easily and with no resistance....because there should be a valid gap for th tappets.

Rich


OK, I think I get what you are saying.

When the valve is closed the pushrod is not compressed and that is when it should spin easily. Presumably I should not be able to spin the pushrod when valve is open, correct?

After I check the two closed, I should rotate the engine until I can check the other two, correct?

Thanks again. May not be able to get back to it before Friday.
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r_towle
post May 18 2016, 09:27 PM
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All yes basically
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