Rear Trailing Arms, Reinforcements to Resist Twisting Options

[Han Solo]

prior to reinforcement the trailing arm shaft lock nuts would be loose each and every day the car was tracked. it was a daily ritual to re-torque these and would lead to a tear if not tightened.

since adding the reinforcements I haven't had a shaft nut come loose in 15 years.
brant

I've noticed the same loosening on passenger side shaft at every autocross. Now tightening that is a ritual for me. That side has extensive long repairs so there's probably all kinds of flex going on. I really like JP's fix above (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) That may be something I do this winter. That is... if I'm not too wrapped up in a 924S FP car build.

[brant]

You will eventually rip the console out

My style is bolt in because my rules require no weld in braces.

Just read the rules for the class you want to run. Email the tech/eligibility person for any class you may go to in the future and print the response

[Heater Guy]

You will eventually rip the console out

My style is bolt in because my rules require no weld in braces.

Just read the rules for the class you want to run. Email the tech/eligibility person for any class you may go to in the future and print the response

My class ITE in SCCA requires the use of the tub. Everything else is open.

[brant]

You will eventually rip the console out

My style is bolt in because my rules require no weld in braces.

Just read the rules for the class you want to run. Email the tech/eligibility person for any class you may go to in the future and print the response

My class ITE in SCCA requires the use of the tub. Everything else is open.

your good
my comment was directed at Han Solo
just that he double check his rules before he decides which style of brace to go with

p.s. I use bolt in styles on 2 different teeners
I especially appreciate the bolt in style on my -4cylinder car, as unbolting and removing the bar aids in engine drops for that car

[Han Solo]

p.s. I use bolt in styles on 2 different teeners
I especially appreciate the bolt in style on my -4cylinder car, as unbolting and removing the bar aids in engine drops for that car

Do these bolt in stiffeners require studs welded to the outer firewall and/or suspension ear? I can see just drilling holes through the ear and using nuts and bolts but I'm unclear how you would bolt through the firewall (outer only). Perhaps use long bolts and pass through both inner and outer? Any photos or links Brant?

[brant]

Yes

Th attachment points are welded to the firewall and ear

The brace is an aluminum turnbuckle rod
I believe from hoerr racing
Or similar

There are pictures in my build thread of the 6cylnder version

[ChrisFoley]

Do these bolt in stiffeners require studs welded to the outer firewall and/or suspension ear?

I have a kit if you don't want to design your own.

[Han Solo]

I have a kit if you don't want to design your own.

I just looked on your website Chris and only saw the reinforcement plates for the suspension console and trailing arms. Do you offer stiffening bars from firewall to console?

[ChrisFoley]

I have a kit if you don't want to design your own.

I just looked on your website Chris and only saw the reinforcement plates for the suspension console and trailing arms. Do you offer stiffening bars from firewall to console?

Yes, the inner console braces are available separately from the larger kit.

[Mueller]

Old thread bump....


So, looking at the mods for the trailing arm with the "bulkhead" plate, any reason one couldn't cut in half like in picture yet move bearing / wheel assembly inboard 19mm as long as trailing arm is reinforced on each side?

I have 15x7 23mm wheels for it and plan on running 205/55s and I'm trying to avoid messing up the rear fenders, not that my car is anything special.

I know the lower shock mount will need to be modified.

This seems easier and better than cutting and rewelding the round tube that the stub axle goes into.

*going to reach out to the weld shop mentioned in rhe 1st post to see if still in business, maybe they can rent me that fixture if available still.

[Heater Guy]

I don't see why a 20mm offset would be a problem to do. I have the fixture here in Walnut Creek. Check with Joe Lamont Welding in Antioch (925) 754-7824.