Loose Rear Wheel Bearing Options

[MarkV]

I had a noise coming from the rear of my car that sounded like something was loose clanking around in my trunk of something. When I would go over bumps something was rattling around. I looked all over the exhaust system and checked the CV joints and couldn't find anything loose. I even emptied everything out of the trunk including the jack. I jacked the car up and noticed that my passenger side rear wheel was loose...it had like 3/8" of play when I pulled on it from side to side. So I ordered a new SFK rear bearing and installed it. After installing the bearing there is still some play in it. Not like it was but I can still hear something loose just not as much. The driver side bearing I changed a few years ago is tight with no play. I remember that when I changed the passenger side there were marks on the retainer where it looked like the outside radius on the bearing had spun at some point....didn't pay much attention to it. I have ordered another bearing and I am getting ready to take it apart again. Has anyone ever had a problem like this with a rear bearing...any pointers?
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[stugray]

If your bushings seize up as they get warm, they will start making a banging noise.
The best description was having a trunk monkey with a ballpeen hammer.

Mine fronts did it once they got warm.
Drive the car until it is making the noise and quickly jack the car up .
If it is the bushings they will make the noise as you raise the car and the arm lowers.
You can use a second jack to raise & lower the trailing arm to be sure.

[ThePaintedMan]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) with Stu. Before you remove the bearing again, check the bushings. More than likely they're 40 years old and need to be replaced.

[MarkV]

There is still something wrong with the bearing or the install of the bearing. I can wiggle the tire back and forth and the movement is at the center of the hub.

I need to remove the shock and rotate the arm to check the bushings but I don't believe that's my problem.

I installed the new bearing back before the first of the year and I am just getting back to it now. It's a pain in the butt job and I may not be able to use the new bearing over again. The old bearing didn't look that bad it was just extremely dry and crusty.

[rgalla9146]

Did you inspect the trailing arm when you replaced the last bearing ?
Did the bearing press into the trailing arm with no resistance ?
Maybe a previous owner neglected a failed / seized bearing and ruined the trailing arm.
Are you certain you are tightening the hub properly?

[Garland]

The rear bearings I installed, but have not run on yet, also have more play then I recall having, when I have installed them in the past.

The question I have is, how much play is there in a correctly installed rear wheel bearing?

[somd914]

Is your hub worn? I had one wear, couldn't get it tight, replaced the bearing but still lose, I finally examined the hub closely and discovered it was worn, no longer round, and undersized. However, I had a typical bearing growl, not the noise you are describing.

As for play, I can't really feel/see any play with trying to rock the wheels.

[MarkV]

I had to use MAP gas to get the castle nut loose. I thought the bearing was original but it was a FAG made in Spain so maybe not. After I cleaned everything up the new bearing went in fairly east using the frozen bearing method. I did have to tap on the brake flange a couple of times with a block of wood to get enough thread to catch the castle nut. I used a torque wrench on the flange bolts and the CV bolts. I tightened the castle nut with a 1/2" air impact. Maybe I damaged the new bearing somehow....didn't seem like it at the time.

[MarkV]

There was a wear mark on the retainer flange where the outer part of the bearing had spun on it at some point. Didn't look bad so I installed it facing the opposite direction. The wear mark was toward the front of the car. If I can get it back apart without ruining the new bearing maybe I should use my belt sander and dress the surface of the retainer flange or find a good used one and replace it.

[somd914]

I tightened the castle nut with a 1/2" air impact. Maybe I damaged the new bearing somehow....didn't seem like it at the time.

But have you torqued it to required spec which I don't recall the value off the top of my head but recall it's in the 225-250 lb-ft. Unless you have a quality, heavy duty impact wrench, it won't get near that torque despite it's advertised numbers.

[ThePaintedMan]

I tightened the castle nut with a 1/2" air impact. Maybe I damaged the new bearing somehow....didn't seem like it at the time.

But have you torqued it to required spec which I don't recall the value off the top of my head but recall it's in the 225-250 lb-ft. Unless you have a quality, heavy duty impact wrench, it won't get near that torque despite it's advertised numbers.

Nailed it. You need to torque it to spec (217-250 ft. lbs). You start at 217 and work your way up until you get to the next open position on the nut. On these double row bearings, proper torque is absolutely essential to not only ensure that the bearing is seated, but also provided the proper preload to ensure long bearing life. You can look through my build thread below (signature) to find how I did mine while on the car using the threaded rod approach. Most 1/2 torque wrenches only go up to about 150 ft-lbs, so I went to that point, then added my weight (200 lbs) at 12 inches out on the breaker bar. This is roughly 200 ft-lbs. Then continue going till you get to the next available open position on the nut.

[MarkV]

I tightened the crap out of it with a Snap-On impact but didn't use a torque wrench. The impact wouldn't break it loose but I thought it was because of rust. I have a torque wrench that goes to 250# that I had to buy for a different project. I will give that a try before I take it all apart again. Seems odd that it was loose before I changed the bearing when the castle nut was tight AF and the new bearing is still loose.

[ThePaintedMan]

Well it *looks* like the bearing is fully seated in the arm, but it's possible you're not getting it fully seated. That bearing retainer should be completely flush if you've got it in all the way. If not, it could contribute to the issue you're seeing. I fully admit that I torqued down a hub nut on my wife's Mazda once to spec... but it kept growling when going down the road. Sure enough I never got the bearing in all the way - but like I said, it torqued to spec when the wheel was on the ground. Took it back off and sure enough, the bearing went in another 1/16th inch. Then torqued it down and all good. My mistake.

Still need to test to rule out the bushings too though. While you're in there sort of thing.

[MarkV]

I should have waited to post this when I had more time to wrench on it. I was curious so I took the wheel and cotter pin off. The wrench clicked when set at 200#. When I set it to 250# I didn't have enough huevos to get it to click so I had to stand on it. It clicked but it didn't turn very far. I had to put the big breaker bar on it and go past 250# to get the cotter pin to line up again.

I put the wheel back on and there was no more movement if I tried to go from side to side. When I tried to move the tire in at out at the top center I could still get it to move a tiny bit. It moved enough that it makes a noise. I jacked up the drivers side to see if there is any movement on that side and it doesn't move at all.

Maybe I just need to take it apart again and closely examine everything. Maybe dress the flange retainer with a big file or a belt sander.

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[Garland]

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[MarkV]

It still isn't as tight as the other side. I can still move it and it is not coming from the bushings so I decided to take it apart. It all came apart pretty easy and I don't believe I did any harm to the new bearing. I think I found the problem. The retainer plate is deformed. Not sure what would cause that to happen. Maybe the previous owner used it the draw down the bearing or something. Rather than try to source another retainer I am going to straighten the old one and run it over a belt sander to make sure it is flat. If it doesn't work I have another bearing and I can take it apart again and replace the retainer plate. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

[MarkV]

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[6freak]

if the bearing is loose in the trailing arm you can use locktite retaining compound if its under about 8 k that will take any play away ...BUT if you ever have to remove that bearing .... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) or you can do flame spray and have it milled

did you mic the stub axle hub and the inner bearing race....good luck

[MarkV]

The bearing is not loose in the trailing arm. Everything still had grease on it so it came apart lots easier than last time but all still tight. The surface on the stub axle looks good as does the surface of the wheel flange.

[Bartlett 914]

The bearing is not loose in the trailing arm. Everything still had grease on it so it came apart lots easier than last time but all still tight. The surface on the stub axle looks good as does the surface of the wheel flange.

It doesn't make sense that even after tightening the stub axle that there is still play. This would indicate either a bad bearing or there is an issue with the stub axle. Under the nut there is a washer. Is there one? Can it be the stub axle protrudes too far and you are tightening the nut against a shoulder on the stub axle and not on the bearing inner race?