Loose Rear Wheel Bearing |
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Loose Rear Wheel Bearing |
MarkV |
May 12 2016, 05:22 PM
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#1
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Fear the Jack Stands Group: Members Posts: 1,493 Joined: 15-January 03 From: Sunny Tucson, AZ Member No.: 154 Region Association: None |
I had a noise coming from the rear of my car that sounded like something was loose clanking around in my trunk of something. When I would go over bumps something was rattling around. I looked all over the exhaust system and checked the CV joints and couldn't find anything loose. I even emptied everything out of the trunk including the jack. I jacked the car up and noticed that my passenger side rear wheel was loose...it had like 3/8" of play when I pulled on it from side to side. So I ordered a new SFK rear bearing and installed it. After installing the bearing there is still some play in it. Not like it was but I can still hear something loose just not as much. The driver side bearing I changed a few years ago is tight with no play. I remember that when I changed the passenger side there were marks on the retainer where it looked like the outside radius on the bearing had spun at some point....didn't pay much attention to it. I have ordered another bearing and I am getting ready to take it apart again. Has anyone ever had a problem like this with a rear bearing...any pointers?
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MarkV |
May 12 2016, 07:07 PM
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#2
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Fear the Jack Stands Group: Members Posts: 1,493 Joined: 15-January 03 From: Sunny Tucson, AZ Member No.: 154 Region Association: None |
I had to use MAP gas to get the castle nut loose. I thought the bearing was original but it was a FAG made in Spain so maybe not. After I cleaned everything up the new bearing went in fairly east using the frozen bearing method. I did have to tap on the brake flange a couple of times with a block of wood to get enough thread to catch the castle nut. I used a torque wrench on the flange bolts and the CV bolts. I tightened the castle nut with a 1/2" air impact. Maybe I damaged the new bearing somehow....didn't seem like it at the time.
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somd914 |
May 12 2016, 08:09 PM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 1,171 Joined: 21-February 11 From: Southern Maryland Member No.: 12,741 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
I tightened the castle nut with a 1/2" air impact. Maybe I damaged the new bearing somehow....didn't seem like it at the time. But have you torqued it to required spec which I don't recall the value off the top of my head but recall it's in the 225-250 lb-ft. Unless you have a quality, heavy duty impact wrench, it won't get near that torque despite it's advertised numbers. |
ThePaintedMan |
May 12 2016, 08:27 PM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,886 Joined: 6-September 11 From: St. Petersburg, FL Member No.: 13,527 Region Association: South East States |
I tightened the castle nut with a 1/2" air impact. Maybe I damaged the new bearing somehow....didn't seem like it at the time. But have you torqued it to required spec which I don't recall the value off the top of my head but recall it's in the 225-250 lb-ft. Unless you have a quality, heavy duty impact wrench, it won't get near that torque despite it's advertised numbers. Nailed it. You need to torque it to spec (217-250 ft. lbs). You start at 217 and work your way up until you get to the next open position on the nut. On these double row bearings, proper torque is absolutely essential to not only ensure that the bearing is seated, but also provided the proper preload to ensure long bearing life. You can look through my build thread below (signature) to find how I did mine while on the car using the threaded rod approach. Most 1/2 torque wrenches only go up to about 150 ft-lbs, so I went to that point, then added my weight (200 lbs) at 12 inches out on the breaker bar. This is roughly 200 ft-lbs. Then continue going till you get to the next available open position on the nut. |
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