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> Loose Rear Wheel Bearing
MarkV
post May 13 2016, 02:24 PM
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I put it half back together with the now flat retainer plate and ran the nut down to about #200 which is about as far as the impact will go. There was still play in the bearing not much but enough to not use it. I have another new bearing in the freezer so I decided to go ahead and replace the bearing again. The first bearing is an SFK bearing is made in Slovakia the off brand replacement I just installed is made in China. It all went back together without a problem and I torqued it to #250. No more play....rock solid. I don't know what the problem is with the SFK it came out in one piece and rolls fine doesn't appear to be anything wrong with it. Maybe I screwed it up somehow on the installation.

The big thick washer under the castle nut is in place...there were no missing parts. Not sure you could torque it to #250 without that washer in place.

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rgalla9146
post May 13 2016, 03:13 PM
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The bearing retainer isn't really a part of the bearing package.
The bearing / hub / flange become one when tight.
The retainer is there to keep a catastrophic wheel bearing failure from causing an AWOL wheel.
The wear marks on the retainer indicate a loose bearing.
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somd914
post May 13 2016, 03:28 PM
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QUOTE(rgalla9146 @ May 13 2016, 05:13 PM) *

The bearing retainer isn't really a part of the bearing package.
The bearing / hub / flange become one when tight.
The retainer is there to keep a catastrophic wheel bearing failure from causing an AWOL wheel.
The wear marks on the retainer indicate a loose bearing.

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6freak
post May 13 2016, 03:29 PM
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Nice!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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MarkV
post May 13 2016, 03:50 PM
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I had to use a 3# slide hammer to get the old new bearing out. When I initially installed the SFK bearing the original bearing was really hard to get out. I don't beleive I had a loose bearing. After I flattened out the retainer and filed it I put it back on and torqued the bolts to 25#. When I took it back off you could see a mark all the way around it where it touched the outer circumference of the bearing. I believe the bearing stands proud of the trailing arm just a hair by design. Someone had over tightened the retainer at some point and deformed it. I think it is all good now no more play when I try to move the tire in and out.

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914Mike
post May 14 2016, 04:21 PM
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My first thought when you said there was no play in one direction, but some at 90 degrees was trailing arm slop, did you check the inner nut? Tends to loosen first...
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Amphicar770
post May 17 2016, 08:14 PM
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Dumb question.

When torquing the axle nut. If one wheel is off and other is on the ground will that keep wheel from spinning without damaging tranny. Or, should wheel be secured some other way. Thx.
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Dave_Darling
post May 17 2016, 09:27 PM
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It'll turn the input shaft of the trans, and turn over the engine. Not enough resistance there, most likely.

Best to solidly brace or hold the hub.

--DD
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malcolm2
post May 17 2016, 09:39 PM
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Sorry, but I did not go thru all the posts.... feeling like Twitter has reduced my ability to read over 140 characters...

But your wobble was without the CV mounted and torqued, right? I would have bet that that was the case.

Glad you got it.
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MarkV
post May 18 2016, 08:43 AM
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I think the SFK/FAG bearing from Slovakia was defective. I found an old thread where someone else had a similar problem with a new FAG bearing right out of the box.

To torque the castle nut I used the emergency brakes. Be sure you remove the two small screws that hold the rotor to the hub and thread a couple of lugs in part way.
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914Sixer
post May 18 2016, 06:30 PM
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For what it is worth, I redid the rear bearing and ran into the same problem. One side is nice and tight, the other has a little movement. Do not remember which bearings though. Everything torqued to spec Going to redo the drivers side.
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MarkV
post May 18 2016, 08:11 PM
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The defective bearing is in the photo below. FAG made in Slovakia. It replaced a bearing that was also FAG made in Spain that was in the car when I bought it. I replaced it because it had play in it.

Replaced the drivers side a few years ago with a FAG but I don't recall where it was made. That bearing was replaced because it was growling.

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Amphicar770
post May 19 2016, 07:51 PM
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QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ May 17 2016, 11:27 PM) *

It'll turn the input shaft of the trans, and turn over the engine. Not enough resistance there, most likely.

Best to solidly brace or hold the hub.

--DD


So, a piece of angle iron drilled for wheel bolts or something else?
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Dave_Darling
post May 19 2016, 10:29 PM
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That oughtta work, as long as it is stout enough.

--DD
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Geezer914
post May 19 2016, 11:16 PM
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I try to buy Timken bearings. Rock Auto has 2000 BMW 328i Timken wheel bearings #5513106 that is the same part number as a Porsche 914 rear wheel bearing. $54+ each. I just posted about a you tube video on a mechanic replacing Porsche Boxster font wheel bearings that kept failing. He took a new FAG bearing apart and one side of the bearing had no grease!
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Amphicar770
post May 20 2016, 07:39 AM
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Just torqued them down. Wow, that is a lot of torque. I had to buy a bigger torque wrench. This one is quite nice and there is currently $10 off a $50 purchase at AZ, bringing price down to $49. It is the same (rebranded) unit that places like Eastwood are selling for much more.

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24340-2-Inch-...t/dp/B00C5ZL1NS

Looking back at receipt from PP, looks like i did get the FAG bearkings. That will stink if there is a defective lot out there, including whatever I installed.
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Geezer914
post May 23 2016, 12:06 PM
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Just received the Timken bearings from Rock Auto. They are FAG bearings made in Slovakia in a Timken box! #513106. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)
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Amphicar770
post May 23 2016, 06:39 PM
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QUOTE(Geezer914 @ May 23 2016, 02:06 PM) *

Just received the Timken bearings from Rock Auto. They are FAG bearings made in Slovakia in a Timken box! #513106. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)


Apparently the guys on the Bimmer and Volvo forums already discovered this. Kind of a crying game moment.
http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/13174499-...eet-surpirse....
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John
post Sep 13 2016, 08:09 PM
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QUOTE(Amphicar770 @ May 19 2016, 05:51 PM) *

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ May 17 2016, 11:27 PM) *

It'll turn the input shaft of the trans, and turn over the engine. Not enough resistance there, most likely.

Best to solidly brace or hold the hub.

--DD


So, a piece of angle iron drilled for wheel bolts or something else?

That is what I use. Mine is a 2"x2"x3/8" angle drilled to hold the wheel studs. Mine is approximately 4ft long (a little longer than my torque wrench)


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This pic is very old. Many donuts and lots of grey hair ago....


I have to replace these bearings on the race car every 4 events (with 2 drivers). My street car has been good for 8 years so far.
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