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> Turbo Tie Rods, steering still fells loose!, Loose on center feel at 40+ MPH
ken914
post Apr 3 2005, 01:02 PM
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I just had a set of turbo tie rods put on. I expected go kart like steering afterwards, but it didn't feel much better.

I think the steering rack may be worn or loose?? Does that make any sense. It isn't suspension, it just isn't as precise on center as I expect it to be.

Any recommendations?

Here is a photo of something loose...


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TheCabinetmaker
post Apr 3 2005, 01:38 PM
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Maybe theres a loose nut behind the steering wheel? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

Ok, Someone had to say it.

Seriously, what do you mean by "it just isn't as precise on center as I expect it to be" ? Do you mean it won't go straight down the road? Did you set the toe after installation?
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ws91420
post Apr 3 2005, 01:40 PM
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Just a simple question Did you get it aligned after you did the job? That alone can effect the feel of the steering.
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Aaron Cox
post Apr 3 2005, 02:09 PM
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balljoints are new?????

racks hardly are "worn and need to be replaced"

after an alignemnt, fresh bushings, and balljoints along with turbo tierods.... i get the gokart status
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ken914
post Apr 3 2005, 02:51 PM
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What I mean by loose is if you are going 40ish or more, you can turn the steering wheel back and forth but the car does not change direction. I can move the top of the wheel about 3/4 of an inch back and forth without effecting the direction the car is going. You can feel when it hits resistance and then starts to affect the path.

Yes, the car was aligned afterwards.

I think that there is something loose either in the rack or in the steering between the rack and the wheel. I have not put it up on ramps myself to try to see what is going on. I guess it can only be 1) the rack not tied to the car tight (loose bolts) 2) the rack has slack inside it or 3) the linkage to the steering wheel has some slack in it somewhere uphill from the rack.

I was hoping someone would say, "Oh, use a 10mm wrench on the third bolt from the left"...



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Eric_Shea
post Apr 3 2005, 02:59 PM
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Oh, use a 10mm wrench on the third bolt from the left...
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JohnM
post Apr 3 2005, 04:56 PM
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I check my rack bolts often after I found it hanging on by only one bolt and it was half way out! Driving with this condition produced slightly more play but not as much as you would imagine, slightly mushy-- rack was moving a bit with input so steering response was not as tight, front end would "bump off track" meaning when hitting any abrupt bump-- even the lane marker bumps car would move offline ever so slightly and would need slight 1/2 inch or less counter wheel input to bring back on line. I found the bumping off track the most annoying and it was what prompted me to see if something was loose up there. John
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TravisNeff
post Apr 3 2005, 04:58 PM
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Wheel bearings, ball joints, alignment settings, tire pressure etc.

They all make up for some slop, there is a rag joint that attaches to the steering rack that maybe a little wallered out too.
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nickg
post Apr 3 2005, 05:09 PM
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check the universal joint in the steering shaft...this will cause that. you will need to have someone turn the wheel back and forth too see if the joint be loose
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ken914
post Apr 3 2005, 05:25 PM
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Thanks for all the help (except for Eric_Shea (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/dry.gif) ). I will rip into it and see where it leads.

Ken
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Eric_Shea
post Apr 3 2005, 08:09 PM
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But you saaaaaaiiiiiiiiiid... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)

Honestly, it looks like you've got all the advice you need. I was going to say "strut bottoms" when you mentioned it felt loose at 40mph. If it's an early car then those have been known to waller out as well. Then you clarified in later posts and that doesn't sound like your problem.

I'd start back at the rack and make sure it's bolted up properly. I think the torque was something like 35 ftlbs. On top of the rack (gotta take it out to get at it) is a rubber donut... maybe but unlikely. Move further up the signal chain up and you'll have the u-joints. Check the one closest to the firewall and then the one under the steering column. I believe a 13mm and a 12mm (believe it or not) are needed.

If you've done all that then you probably do need a new rack. It's not unlikely. I have one I'll loan you for 80 years for $40.00 plus shipping. (that's $0.50 cents a year... what a bargin (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif) )

How's that? Better this time? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)
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rhodyguy
post Apr 3 2005, 08:29 PM
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double check everything, pull the dust boots back. did you locktite the rack ends? check the wheel bearings, do the wheels rock if you shake them? check the crossmember bolts (4). everything. did you lower and rack space? how are the bushings? lots-o-? first.

k
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