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> Torque Rear Axle Nuts, Can this be done at home?
jack20
post May 25 2016, 08:53 PM
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When I removed the rear axle nuts I bolted a 3' length of angle iron onto the hub and placed it on a jack stand. I attached a socket on one end of a breaker bar and used a floor Jack on th other side to break it loose.
I don't have a torque wrench that breaks at the value called for in the Haynes book which I think is around 160ft#. I doubt that most of us garage guys have this tool.
What do you all recommend for tightening the rear axle nuts.
Thank You,
Jack
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PanelBilly
post May 25 2016, 09:05 PM
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I used a breaker bar with a pipe on it, while the wheels were on the ground and the brake was on.
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stugray
post May 25 2016, 09:12 PM
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The best I can find is that you need ~220-250 ft-lbs.
If you target 250 ft-lbs (3000 inch-lbs)

Get a cheater pipe for your breaker bar at least 3 ft long (unless you weigh less than 83 lbs).

Take your weight (W) and use some algebra.

Torque(T ft-lb) = Length(L ft) X Force(W lb)
T = L X W

If your weight is ~170lbs and you target torque is 250 ft-lbs:

250 = L X 170
solve for L
L = 250/170 = 1.47 ft = 17.64 inches =~ 17 - 5/8 inches

Make a mark on the cheater bar exactly 17-5/8 inches from the center of the socket.
Torque by standing on that spot.

(Math check => 17.625in * 170lbs = 2996.25 in/lbs)

I take no responsibility if your foot slips or the socket slips or your breaker-bar snaps and you break an ankle.
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Geezer914
post May 26 2016, 04:11 AM
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Buy a Texton 250 lb. torque wrench on ebay for $59.00 with free shipping.
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rgalla9146
post May 26 2016, 05:22 AM
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..... Superhero ?
Female versions available now.
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Amphicar770
post May 26 2016, 05:22 AM
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QUOTE(Geezer914 @ May 26 2016, 06:11 AM) *

Buy a Texton 250 lb. torque wrench on ebay for $59.00 with free shipping.


Or on Amazon for $49 using the $10 coupon shown on the product page.
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andys
post May 26 2016, 08:28 AM
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QUOTE(stugray @ May 25 2016, 08:12 PM) *

The best I can find is that you need ~220-250 ft-lbs.
If you target 250 ft-lbs (3000 inch-lbs)

Get a cheater pipe for your breaker bar at least 3 ft long (unless you weigh less than 83 lbs).

Take your weight (W) and use some algebra.

Torque(T ft-lb) = Length(L ft) X Force(W lb)
T = L X W

If your weight is ~170lbs and you target torque is 250 ft-lbs:

250 = L X 170
solve for L
L = 250/170 = 1.47 ft = 17.64 inches =~ 17 - 5/8 inches

Make a mark on the cheater bar exactly 17-5/8 inches from the center of the socket.
Torque by standing on that spot.

(Math check => 17.625in * 170lbs = 2996.25 in/lbs)

I take no responsibility if your foot slips or the socket slips or your breaker-bar snaps and you break an ankle.


Nothing at all wrong with this method. How you originate the required torque is of no consequence. Yes to being careful to not let the socket slip off the nut (You can put a block under the socket).

Andys
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jack20
post May 26 2016, 11:39 AM
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Thank you all for your responses. I'm going to start with the formula provided by stugray and do my best to remain uninjured. Plan B will be the Texton.
Jack
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Keith914
post May 26 2016, 11:46 AM
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I added an extension to the socket to clear the side of the car, then used a car jack stand to rest the extension on close to the center line of the wheel/axle, thus optimizing the bar, extension and socket leverage.
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jack20
post May 26 2016, 12:55 PM
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QUOTE(Keith914 @ May 26 2016, 10:46 AM) *

I added an extension to the socket to clear the side of the car, then used a car jack stand to rest the extension on close to the center line of the wheel/axle, thus optimizing the bar, extension and socket leverage.

Great suggestion. It worked perfectly. Here's the setup I used. Please no lectures about the lever style jack stands. I have others and always back up with floor jacks. ;-)
Attached Image
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arkitect
post May 27 2016, 06:10 AM
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jack20,
I noticed the black/yellow limited edition in your avatar picture, do you still have it?

The one your working on is different...just curious, always liked the color combination.

Dave
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jack20
post May 27 2016, 08:22 AM
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Hi Dave,
I no longer have the Bumble Bee. I sold it in '82 after my wife and I got married. She's in the picture. I always regretted selling that car although I've owned several other Porsches. The orange '74 you see got me back in the 914 game. I bought it 1.5 years ago and have gone completely through ir. The engine will finally go back in today.
Maybe I'll change the avatar.
Jack
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Dave_Darling
post May 27 2016, 02:55 PM
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If you have the info still, and haven't yet communicated with Jeff Bowlsby about your LE, I am certain that he would love to know about it! He maintains the "unofficial LE register" and a great LE info page at:

http://bowlsby.net/914/CanAm/

You can contact him through there or on this BBS.

--DD
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ConeDodger
post May 27 2016, 04:48 PM
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If you know someone with a McLaren, the single center lug wrench goes to 300lbft (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

What? No McLaren on your street?
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ThePaintedMan
post May 27 2016, 06:05 PM
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Pfft.. the 911 GT3 Center locks get tightened to 420+ ft/lbs. Basically, if you come to the track and the locking "pin" isn't locked out, we send you away, back to find the nearest Porsche dealer to have them torque them and make sure they lock. Pissed off more than a few people on their Saturday mornings, but it's PCA regs.
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jack20
post May 27 2016, 10:25 PM
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Thanks Dave. Jeff has my vin info on his site.
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ConeDodger
post May 27 2016, 10:46 PM
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QUOTE(ThePaintedMan @ May 27 2016, 08:05 PM) *

Pfft.. the 911 GT3 Center locks get tightened to 420+ ft/lbs. Basically, if you come to the track and the locking "pin" isn't locked out, we send you away, back to find the nearest Porsche dealer to have them torque them and make sure they lock. Pissed off more than a few people on their Saturday mornings, but it's PCA regs.


George, I'm not saying the McLaren TW will not go to 420+ft/lbs. I'm saying it will do the torque spec for our cars... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif)
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JoeDees
post May 28 2016, 08:38 AM
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I still have a fantasy of creating an adapter that would fit the VW torquemeister tool.
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dangrouche
post May 28 2016, 10:50 AM
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If you are re-using the existing hub and nut, I dimple the hub and use a permanent maker to mark the nut with #1, #2, #3, #4, #5, & #6, prior to disassembly since you have to tighten the nut so the cotter pin will have to a clear hole. Also count the number of turns for removal of the nut. So when you reassemble, you know how many turns to tighten it in. YMMV, but this is ballpark guide if you don't want to buy a 300 ft. lb. torque wrench
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maf914
post May 30 2016, 06:51 AM
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QUOTE(dangrouche @ May 28 2016, 08:50 AM) *

If you are re-using the existing hub and nut, I dimple the hub and use a permanent maker to mark the nut with #1, #2, #3, #4, #5, & #6, prior to disassembly since you have to tighten the nut so the cotter pin will have to a clear hole. Also count the number of turns for removal of the nut. So when you reassemble, you know how many turns to tighten it in. YMMV, but this is ballpark guide if you don't want to buy a 300 ft. lb. torque wrench


Very good! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
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