Torque Rear Axle Nuts, Can this be done at home? Options

[maf914]

I take no responsibility if your foot slips or the socket slips or your breaker-bar snaps and you break an ankle.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) I broke a no-name breaker bar while using a 4-foot cheater pipe to remove a rear axle nut to change out CV joints. I replaced the no-name bar with a 1/2 inch Craftsman breaker bar which did the trick. I reinstalled the nut using the body weight x distance torque technique. No ankles were broken in the process. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Years later I was looking for my 4-foot cheater pipe, which in the meantime had been loaned to two home mechanic friends on occasion, and I realized it had been left in the attic of a house that we had sold. Now I need a new cheater bar. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[stugray]

I take no responsibility if your foot slips or the socket slips or your breaker-bar snaps and you break an ankle.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) I broke a no-name breaker bar while using a 4-foot cheater pipe to remove a rear axle nut to change out CV joints. I replaced the no-name bar with a 1/2 inch Craftsman breaker bar which did the trick. I reinstalled the nut using the body weight x distance torque technique. No ankles were broken in the process. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Years later I was looking for my 4-foot cheater pipe, which in the meantime had been loaned to two home mechanic friends on occasion, and I realized it had been left in the attic of a house that we had sold. Now I need a new cheater bar. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

I did that exact thing removing my axle nuts on my karman ghia, but I broke a craftsman breaker bar.
Took it into Sears and the salesman looked at it and said "Looks like you used about a 4 foot breaker bar to snap that" I said " no it was more like 6 feet".
He handed me a brand new breaker bar and said "have a nice day!"

[mgp4591]

If you are re-using the existing hub and nut, I dimple the hub and use a permanent maker to mark the nut with #1, #2, #3, #4, #5, & #6, prior to disassembly since you have to tighten the nut so the cotter pin will have to a clear hole. Also count the number of turns for removal of the nut. So when you reassemble, you know how many turns to tighten it in. YMMV, but this is ballpark guide if you don't want to buy a 300 ft. lb. torque wrench

That's a great idea! At the dealership, we found that on an old Bug where the torque spec was also 250 ft lbs more or less that the axle nut castellation would be showing two threads past the axle cotter key hole. After many times doing this, we never had a problem with them coming loose or being overtightened. This method was also confirmed by the local VW aftermarket repair haus... they'd been doing it for more than 20 years with no issues. Of course, the usual disclaimers are to be taken into account and I assume no responsibility for injury or death resulting from this method... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[Drums66]

I used a breaker bar with a pipe on it, while the wheels were on the ground and the brake was on.

...The method I've always used..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) (also taking it off!)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

[ThePaintedMan]

George, I'm not saying the McLaren TW will not go to 420+ft/lbs. I'm saying it will do the torque spec for our cars... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif)

Sorry Rob, I realize now that post kinda came off "know it all"-ish. Yeah, either torque wrench would work. But 420 ft-lbs? Are you kidding me Porsche?

On the original topic - again, my torque wrench only goes up to 150 ft lbs. So I take it up to 150, then I go to the next castellated nut position. Typically that's at least another 70 ft-lbs or so, which is right in spec. No way to be "perfect" on this one because of the castellated nut limitation. Just needs to be in the torque range provided.

[r_towle]

I take them to the local truck repair shop for loosening and retorquing.
Those places (two near me) have really big wrenches, never an issue.

They seem to be all over the place repairing large box trucks and school buses, just ask around.

Done the pipe deal for decades till I found I could get it done for 10 bucks and a smile, these guys love to show off