engine removal, do I need to disconnect alternator? |
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engine removal, do I need to disconnect alternator? |
ggenovez |
May 29 2016, 07:27 PM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 19 Joined: 8-December 14 From: DFW Member No.: 18,201 Region Association: None |
Hi all,
I'm removing the engine from my 914 and found some instructions about engine removal. On article says to "disconnect alternator harness". No pictures or other information. What does that mean? engine tins need to be removed? Any pics? Thanks! |
jimkelly |
May 29 2016, 07:31 PM
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#2
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Delaware USA Group: Members Posts: 4,969 Joined: 5-August 04 From: Delaware, USA Member No.: 2,460 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
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dlee6204 |
May 29 2016, 07:36 PM
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#3
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Howdy Group: Members Posts: 2,162 Joined: 30-April 06 From: Burnsville, NC Member No.: 5,956 |
The alternator harness needs to be unplugged from the relay board in the engine compartment.
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Steve |
May 29 2016, 09:27 PM
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#4
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,580 Joined: 14-June 03 From: Orange County, CA Member No.: 822 Region Association: Southern California |
As well as the battery to the starter. Pretty straightforward. Disconnect anything around the motor beyond the tin, so you can lower the motor and tranny together. Same thing below the motor and trans. After disconnecting and unbolting everything including the cv joints from the trans you should be down to 4 bolts. The two on the motor mounts and two on the trans. Get a transmission/motor cycle floor jack and lower it down and out the back of the car. Done it so many times, I could do it in my sleep. There is a lot of gotchas... Trans ground strap, rubber lip around and under tin, clearing tin around trailing arm nuts while lowering. Reverse light wiring, clutch and throttle cable, etc. just look closely for anything in the way before lowering.
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74ravenna |
May 30 2016, 04:40 AM
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#5
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Member Group: Members Posts: 471 Joined: 19-October 14 From: nh Member No.: 18,032 Region Association: North East States |
As well as the battery to the starter. Pretty straightforward. Disconnect anything around the motor beyond the tin, so you can lower the motor and tranny together. Same thing below the motor and trans. After disconnecting and unbolting everything including the cv joints from the trans you should be down to 4 bolts. The two on the motor mounts and two on the trans. Get a transmission/motor cycle floor jack and lower it down and out the back of the car. Done it so many times, I could do it in my sleep. There is a lot of gotchas... Trans ground strap, rubber lip around and under tin, clearing tin around trailing arm nuts while lowering. Reverse light wiring, clutch and throttle cable, etc. just look closely for anything in the way before lowering. "Get a transmission/motor cycle floor jack and lower it down and out the back of the car." Do you find this a better way than lowering the car (wheels off) then disconnecting the engine then raising the car? I'm about to remove the engine and I'm following Pelican's procedure. I'm not sure which is the best way. Thanks Steve |
Steve |
May 30 2016, 08:47 AM
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#6
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,580 Joined: 14-June 03 From: Orange County, CA Member No.: 822 Region Association: Southern California |
I have done it both ways several times. If you can get the back end high enough, it's easier to drop it and pull it out. The pelican way works, but it s harder to get under the car. Your resting the engine and trans on a furniture cart, roughly 4" off the ground and have to get to the 4 bolts underneath. Pain in the ass... And then raise the car and slide it out. Versus having the car way up in the air with a floor jack. Do a search on floor jack and you can see some nice photos and jack recommendations.
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TheCabinetmaker |
May 30 2016, 09:02 AM
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#7
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I drive my car everyday Group: Members Posts: 8,300 Joined: 8-May 03 From: Tulsa, Ok. Member No.: 666 |
What Steve said
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rhodyguy |
May 30 2016, 09:20 AM
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#8
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,075 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
Slide 2 pieces of tin, license plates work swell, in between the the engine tins and shelves from above just covering the inner rear control arm nuts. The tins will help guide the engine past the nuts so the engine tin does'nt get hung up on them.
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74ravenna |
May 30 2016, 09:27 AM
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#9
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Member Group: Members Posts: 471 Joined: 19-October 14 From: nh Member No.: 18,032 Region Association: North East States |
Thanks guys. Good info.
Steve |
Amphicar770 |
May 30 2016, 09:54 AM
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#10
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,188 Joined: 20-April 10 From: PA, USA Member No.: 11,639 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
The lift plate from Tangerine racing is probably the best investment you can make, makes raising and lowering the assembly a breeze.
I attached the plate to my tranny Jack. That made it even better as the tranny Jack allows for easy fine tuning of angle. |
forrestkhaag |
May 30 2016, 10:14 AM
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#11
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 935 Joined: 21-April 14 From: Scottsdale, Arizona Member No.: 17,273 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I built a dolly that keys to the engine bar and tranny fins on the underside of the assembly. I jack up the car to a height that allows me to jack the dolly to the underside of the engine and then unbolt it per the pelican tech checklist / tin on. Down & out it goes without getting my head or anything substantila under the car in any way shape or form.
The dolly costs four wheels and a few bolts. A furniture dolly is ok but much weaker.. roadyguy advice is very sage and saves a hangup and bent tin on the down and out.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Attached image(s) |
74ravenna |
May 30 2016, 01:05 PM
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#12
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Member Group: Members Posts: 471 Joined: 19-October 14 From: nh Member No.: 18,032 Region Association: North East States |
I was so far into the Pelican method i went ahead with it and things have gone good so far.
The transmission bolts weren't too hard to take off but the engine mount bolts aren't budging. I've got them soaking in penetrant for now. I had actually soaked them a couple times prior to today but they are fused on there! Didn't mean to hijack the thread, sorry. Once again thanks for all the great advice. Steve |
wndsnd |
May 30 2016, 07:05 PM
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#13
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You wanted a horse, but got a goat. Nobody wants a goat.... Group: Members Posts: 2,861 Joined: 12-February 12 From: North Shore, MA Member No.: 14,124 Region Association: North East States |
Steve,
Don't forget to put a wrench on nut at top of bolt or it will just spin. But good luck, mine were fused and first time out I had to cut them. If that happens, make sure you use high strength replacements. I think the metrics are 10.9 Sounds like you found a jack. |
74ravenna |
May 31 2016, 03:37 AM
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#14
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Member Group: Members Posts: 471 Joined: 19-October 14 From: nh Member No.: 18,032 Region Association: North East States |
Steve, Don't forget to put a wrench on nut at top of bolt or it will just spin. But good luck, mine were fused and first time out I had to cut them. If that happens, make sure you use high strength replacements. I think the metrics are 10.9 Sounds like you found a jack. Hi John, I used my floor jack and one of my small bottle jacks. It worked great. I am hoping to not have to cut them off but as I was trying to loosen them I could tell that i might not have a choice. Did you try a torch before cutting them off? What did you cut them with? A sawmill maybe? 10.9, excellent. Thanks Steve |
wndsnd |
May 31 2016, 06:46 AM
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#15
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You wanted a horse, but got a goat. Nobody wants a goat.... Group: Members Posts: 2,861 Joined: 12-February 12 From: North Shore, MA Member No.: 14,124 Region Association: North East States |
PM Sent
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ggenovez |
May 31 2016, 06:42 PM
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#16
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 19 Joined: 8-December 14 From: DFW Member No.: 18,201 Region Association: None |
PM Sent Gentlemen, all I can say is WOW! I love all the information! SO here is the other part, it was converted to carbs. so no ECM. I'm guessing I don't need anything on the alternator side to remove it. I am having another issues. The shift linkage is ceased and the 4mm hex is rounded. I tried penetrating oil, heat, cutting a notch, welding a nut (kept falling) any ideas to remove it? Thanks again. G |
rhodyguy |
Jun 1 2016, 06:46 AM
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#17
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,075 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
Remove the carbs and linkage in one piece from the manifolds. This will buy you more wiggle room side to side and you don't have to raise the car as high to slide the engine out. You also preserve your current linkage settings. Don't forget to cover the intakes with something. Prevents errant nuts and washers disappearing down the manifolds.
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Amphicar770 |
Jun 1 2016, 09:29 AM
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#18
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,188 Joined: 20-April 10 From: PA, USA Member No.: 11,639 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
PM Sent Gentlemen, all I can say is WOW! I love all the information! SO here is the other part, it was converted to carbs. so no ECM. I'm guessing I don't need anything on the alternator side to remove it. I am having another issues. The shift linkage is ceased and the 4mm hex is rounded. I tried penetrating oil, heat, cutting a notch, welding a nut (kept falling) any ideas to remove it? Thanks again. G Take a similar sized torx bit and tap it into the allen bolt head with a hammer. Hammer hard. Once it is well and truly wedged in, a careful turn of the wrench should loosen the bolt. |
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