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> Use of Points to trigger MSD
moorepower
post Jun 16 2016, 03:43 PM
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How many are using factory points to trigger MSD? It eliminates almost all the burning of the points, because the only current is being used to trigger the ignition module.
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carr914
post Jun 16 2016, 03:58 PM
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I use a MSD Billet Dizzy
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veekry9
post Jun 16 2016, 03:59 PM
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Why solid state is better:
https://www.picoauto.com/library/automotive...primary-voltage
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Mark Henry
post Jun 16 2016, 04:18 PM
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I done it several times, works just fine.
With a MSD it's just a switch and low volts so the points don't burn.
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moorepower
post Jun 16 2016, 04:19 PM
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I understand that solid state is better, but I plan on MSIII down the road and I am looking for a stop gap, until I do so. The points will control MSD like and optical trigger but not quite as accurately.
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jcd914
post Jun 16 2016, 04:43 PM
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I have done it and it works fine.
Points don't burn but can get dirty and the rubbing block still wears.
But since you need to lube the mechanical advance every now and then anyway you can clean and lube too.

Jim
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veekry9
post Jun 16 2016, 04:55 PM
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The coil doesn't care what type of switch stops the current,so sure,use the points if you like.
The waveform you get with the points tho,not as sharp,and erratic too.
A stock coil will do for a stock distributor,no advantage there.
Do put the distributor on a machine for a checkup,ensure the bearings are good and the drive
gear has the correct backlash and endplay.The advance plates and vacuum must operate correctly for the model engine you have.
Freshen up the high tension circuit,and use anti-seize on the plug threads.
Do not use your tongue to test the ht cables.
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moorepower
post Jun 16 2016, 04:59 PM
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QUOTE(veekry9 @ Jun 16 2016, 05:55 PM) *

The coil doesn't care what type of switch stops the current,so sure,use the points if you like.
The waveform you get with the points tho,not as sharp,and erratic too.
A stock coil will do for a stock distributor,no advantage there.
Do put the distributor on a machine for a checkup,ensure the bearings are good and the drive
gear has the correct backlash and endplay.The advance plates and vacuum must operate correctly for the model engine you have.
Freshen up the high tension circuit,and use anti-seize on the plug threads.
Do not use your tongue to test the ht cables.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)



Anti-seize should be used on every spark plug, including from the factory!
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veekry9
post Jun 16 2016, 05:32 PM
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Drilling out and 'inserting' the head in situ:
Roll cylinder to tdc on intake stroke.
Apply high vacuum,by venturi device.(not a vacuum cleaner!)
Drill out remainder of plug to minor thd dia.
Extract steel chips and electrodes magnetically.
Inspect cylinder for chips visually,by borescope.
Plug bottom end of hole with heavy grease or vaseline.
Grease your drills.
Drill out remainder of plug to pitch dia.
Vacuum the grease plug out and replace.
Attempt to remove remaining helix,use heat.
Drill to major plug dia.
Vacuum the grease plug out and replace.
Drill to insert minor dia.
Vacuum the grease plug out and replace.
Tap insert thd.
Inspect cylinder for chips visually,by borescope.
Clean thd with acetone and or brake cleaner.
Install insert with hitemp ceramic epoxy.
Inspect cylinder for chips visually,by borescope.
Apply high vacuum,by venturi device.
Install new plug,with antisieze.
Repeat for every broken plug.
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stugray
post Jun 16 2016, 07:24 PM
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I have a mallory unilite with optical pickup to drive my MSD.
The signal from that is a nice clean +12VDC square wave.

My datalogger can read it directly for RPM while trying that with points will get you a fried microprocessor.
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porschetub
post Jun 18 2016, 12:25 AM
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QUOTE(jcd914 @ Jun 17 2016, 10:43 AM) *

I have done it and it works fine.
Points don't burn but can get dirty and the rubbing block still wears.
But since you need to lube the mechanical advance every now and then anyway you can clean and lube too.

Jim

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Key points there so why bother really,one step ahead then five back .
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