Uh oh! She just died. |
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Uh oh! She just died. |
Amphicar770 |
Jun 24 2016, 02:17 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,188 Joined: 20-April 10 From: PA, USA Member No.: 11,639 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Per earlier post, picked up from shop today. Drove to work, running great. Driving home, running great although I notice volts reading less than 12v, temp gauge not working.
Almost home, a few blocks away. Going down hill. Huh, did engine cut out. Why, yes it has. Turn key. It cranks but no start. As if no spark or no fuel. Coil feels quite hot if that matters. By side of road now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) |
TheCabinetmaker |
Jun 24 2016, 02:21 PM
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#2
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I drive my car everyday Group: Members Posts: 8,300 Joined: 8-May 03 From: Tulsa, Ok. Member No.: 666 |
Signs of a dying coil. They get hot and shut down. Cool off, and work...for a while.
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Amphicar770 |
Jun 24 2016, 02:22 PM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,188 Joined: 20-April 10 From: PA, USA Member No.: 11,639 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
How long should I let it cool before trying again. Bosch Blue, not very old, is there a better option.
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ChrisFoley |
Jun 24 2016, 02:26 PM
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#4
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I am Tangerine Racing Group: Members Posts: 7,909 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None |
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ChrisFoley |
Jun 24 2016, 02:26 PM
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#5
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I am Tangerine Racing Group: Members Posts: 7,909 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None |
Can you hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you turn the key?
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Amphicar770 |
Jun 24 2016, 02:27 PM
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#6
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,188 Joined: 20-April 10 From: PA, USA Member No.: 11,639 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
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Amphicar770 |
Jun 24 2016, 02:36 PM
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#7
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,188 Joined: 20-April 10 From: PA, USA Member No.: 11,639 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
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Amphicar770 |
Jun 24 2016, 02:47 PM
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#8
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,188 Joined: 20-April 10 From: PA, USA Member No.: 11,639 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
What is easiest way to check for spark when stuck alongside the road. If someone comes walking by I can ask them to turn the key. Don't really have any tools with me but could walk home to get some.
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ChrisFoley |
Jun 24 2016, 02:51 PM
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#9
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I am Tangerine Racing Group: Members Posts: 7,909 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None |
What is easiest way to check for spark when stuck alongside the road. If someone comes walking by I can ask them to turn the key. Don't really have any tools with me but could walk home to get some. Coils do get hot. To check for spark, pull a wire from the distributor cap and hold it (don't hang on with bare hand) so the metal end is very close to the pocket on the cap, then crank. |
Amphicar770 |
Jun 24 2016, 03:12 PM
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#10
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,188 Joined: 20-April 10 From: PA, USA Member No.: 11,639 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Thanks guys. I let it cool for 20-30 minutes and she started right up. Thoughts as to what's going on. Fuel pump is in front
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TheCabinetmaker |
Jun 24 2016, 03:31 PM
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#11
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I drive my car everyday Group: Members Posts: 8,300 Joined: 8-May 03 From: Tulsa, Ok. Member No.: 666 |
Go to flaps. Buy a momentary switch. Like the start switch in an old boat. Wire it up with long enough wires to reach from starter to engine bay with alligator clips on the ends. Next time it quits, hook the clips to the starter, turn on key, disconnect coil wire and using insulated pliers hold the end of the coil wire close to the sheet metal and look for spark while cranking. I've seen condensers cause this also
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Amphicar770 |
Jun 24 2016, 03:55 PM
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#12
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,188 Joined: 20-April 10 From: PA, USA Member No.: 11,639 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Thx. No condensor. There is a pertronix, or similar, living under the cap.
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76-914 |
Jun 24 2016, 06:22 PM
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#13
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,490 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
Per earlier post, picked up from shop today. Drove to work, running great. Driving home, running great although I notice volts reading less than 12v, temp gauge not working. Almost home, a few blocks away. Going down hill. Huh, did engine cut out. Why, yes it has. Turn key. It cranks but no start. As if no spark or no fuel. Coil feels quite hot if that matters. By side of road now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Your about the best natured man I've seen in awhile. I'd go ballistic after that bill you received. That's just me, anyway. What voltage are you seeing at the battery? Did the spade slip off the temp sender? |
iankarr |
Jun 24 2016, 08:32 PM
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#14
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The wrencher formerly known as Cuddy_K Group: Members Posts: 2,471 Joined: 22-May 15 From: Heber City, UT Member No.: 18,749 Region Association: Intermountain Region |
Does sound like a bad coil...or an overheated one. Funny thing. I kept having similar issues with my car (running fine till coil gets nuclear hot, then dies. Cools off and starts fine again). I replaced the coil twice and still had issues until I added an additional ballast resistor before the coil. Now everything is great. I can drive the car for hours with no problem.The coil still gets hot...just not plutonium hot.
I know that the Bosch coils are supposed to have an internal resistor. So did the Accel coil which is specifically matched to my electronic ignition. But without the supplemental ballast resistor, it just got too hot and quit. Maybe someone here can explain it...or point me to another solution. I read somewhere that the need for a resistor on the Accel coil changes with the number of cylinders (less than 8 cylinders may need further resistance). That might explain it. Anyway... I agree that with the bill you just paid, they should sort this out no questions asked. And NO BILL! |
ChrisFoley |
Jun 25 2016, 08:56 AM
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#15
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I am Tangerine Racing Group: Members Posts: 7,909 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None |
I know Mallory Unilite modules had a tendency to make coils run hotter than points.
Idle rpm seemed to make the coil hotter than under load. We had Mallory oil filled coils quit in the driveway a few times. Perhaps Pertronix has the same effect. |
ChrisFoley |
Jun 25 2016, 09:01 AM
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#16
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I am Tangerine Racing Group: Members Posts: 7,909 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None |
I agree that with the bill you just paid, they should sort this out no questions asked. And NO BILL! While I questioned the time billed vs time required, there's no apparent relationship between the work the shop did on the car and the (ignition) failure during the ride home. The shop shouldn't be on the hook to resolve this issue. |
Amphicar770 |
Jun 25 2016, 09:14 AM
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#17
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,188 Joined: 20-April 10 From: PA, USA Member No.: 11,639 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Agree that I do not think the coil has anything to do with the work done.
I just read an article that internal ballast resistor coils indeed run much hotter than external resistor units. The resistor basically acts as a huge heat sink. I wonder if the 914 would be better served using an external resistor unit? |
Gunn1 |
Jun 25 2016, 09:58 AM
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#18
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,021 Joined: 14-February 16 From: Minnesota Member No.: 19,670 Region Association: None |
Agree that I do not think the coil has anything to do with the work done. I just read an article that internal ballast resistor coils indeed run much hotter than external resistor units. The resistor basically acts as a huge heat sink. I wonder if the 914 would be better served using an external resistor unit? One reason for this could be worn out spark plugs. Before the electric current is able to reach the spark plugs, it must pass through the ignition coil to ensure that the engine will start up at the minimum level of power or electricity. When the spark plugs are damaged or already worn out, they will basically force the ignition coils to work so much harder in terms of electricity flow. This will cause the coil to overheat. |
Gunn1 |
Jun 25 2016, 10:01 AM
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#19
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,021 Joined: 14-February 16 From: Minnesota Member No.: 19,670 Region Association: None |
Agree that I do not think the coil has anything to do with the work done. I just read an article that internal ballast resistor coils indeed run much hotter than external resistor units. The resistor basically acts as a huge heat sink. I wonder if the 914 would be better served using an external resistor unit? One reason for this could be worn out spark plugs. Before the electric current is able to reach the spark plugs, it must pass through the ignition coil to ensure that the engine will start up at the minimum level of power or electricity. When the spark plugs are damaged or already worn out, they will basically force the ignition coils to work so much harder in terms of electricity flow. This will cause the coil to overheat. This could also be caused from some sort of new resistance caused in the ignition wiring when the recent work was completed. |
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