Front Deck Release Solution from Simple Parts, Tired of crap cables and housings? Look here: Options

[Series9]

I've had a couple of rounds dealing with front deck releases lately, and the low quality parts we have to suffer in order to get the job done, so.....


I doubt I'm the first to notice this tidbit, but the release handle will screw on to a throttle cable:

[Series9]

Parts needed:

1 new 914 throttle cable
6' of bicycle brake housing (not shift housing, it's thinner) from your local bike shop.
1 tube 5-minute epoxy

Time needed:

About an hour



Step 1: Cut the engine-end off the new throttle cable and remove the cable from the housing.

Step 2: Remove the end fittings from the throttle housing. I do this by putting the housing in a vise and then setting up a crescent wrench so it will just slide on the housing, but not past the fittings on the end. A couple of taps on the wrench with a hammer and the fittings come off.

Step 3: Fill the ends with epoxy. We do this so we can drill out the fitting to the approximate OD of the brake housing so it's not swimming around in the larger fitting.

[Series9]

Step 4: After the epoxy sets, drill the small side for the cable and the large size for the brake housing.

Step 5: Bend the mounting tab on the latch assembly by 90 degrees, drill and tap 6mmx1.0 tap.

Step 6: Install the firewall fitting on the release tube under the dash and screw the engine-end into the latch assembly.

Step 7: Put it together and enjoy a 20-year fix that works like butter.




Total cost: Less than $30.

[Series9]

And:

[rick 918-S]

I noticed my front cable pulling really hard. Time for maintenance before I end up snapping one too. Good fix Joe.

[Steve]

Nice solution!! Thanks for sharing!! Mine was crap. I bought a new stock one from Pelican. After installing the handle was harder than hell to pull and the sheath would pull out of the tabs and not disengage correctly. I pulled it back a part and lubed the cable with silicon grease and now it works great. Next time it dies, I will use your method.

[green914]

Thanks for sharing (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) looks like an easy fix.

[cary]

I think I know someone that can make them for us. LOL.
His car needs a new cable. I have the fresh cad plated latch. But its waiting for a new cable.

[pete000]

This looks like a 914 Rubber new part !

[Chris Pincetich]

This looks like a 914 Rubber new part !

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
I already bought/installed the new cable Mikey & co. sells now, and w/o some lube it is way more difficult than it should be to pop the front latch open. It's not even really a "cable" but a piece of soft metal shaped like a cable that kinks and breaks easily if bent back and forth. The new parts are better than the 40 year old sticktion, but still kinda difficult. It seems silly that a better/smoother cable housing has not been developed, as it is not rocket science, and bicycle cables/housings are so cheap, smooth, and durable. My fab skills are unworthy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

GREAT JOB Joe (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

I would pay $50 for a new, "Like-Butter" smooth front latch cable system. I use it a lot! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[wes]

I have Marks and mine works fine! (not like butter)

[Mikey914]

Mine is made like OEM, yes you and use bike cable sheath if you want. I also sell the pull cable alone if you wish to fabricate your own. In fact, before I started making them like factory, I did exactly this. It's a cheap relatively easy fix, just a matter of how stock you want to go.

As far as the comment on breaking, yes you can fatigue the metal cable (just like OEM) if you try, but in normal use, should not be an issue.

And yes, you should lube your assembly on the release (at the front). The cable sheath only keeps the cable on the correct path and allows it to pull against the side of it internally. Lubrication inside the sheath should not be necessary as it is a smooth surface and there is nothing to bind on.

You will want to put it in the factor routing through the light bucket and bend the metal tabs down around it to secure it into place. This takes some flex out of the assembly, and is why factory put them there.