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> Turbo Tie Rods, Where to buy
chris914
post Apr 8 2005, 02:50 PM
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Has anyone bought the turbo tie rods from Performance Products? Are they the better quality ones?

Does anyone in San Diego have the wrench I can borrow?

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StratPlayer
post Apr 8 2005, 03:12 PM
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Try Pelican Parts I'm sure they have them and quality as well.
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Joe Bob
post Apr 8 2005, 03:15 PM
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Unless you get them from Performance on one of the sales...you'll get bent over....

Try Pelican or GPR.
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mk114
post Apr 8 2005, 03:18 PM
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Tweeks has them for 119.00 But are they any good?
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TravisNeff
post Apr 8 2005, 03:41 PM
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You want to be sure and get the OEM versions. They have castellated nuts and cotter pins. The knock off ones have a nylon lock nut only.
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eeyore
post Apr 8 2005, 03:44 PM
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QUOTE (chris914 @ Apr 8 2005, 12:50 PM)
Does anyone in San Diego have the wrench I can borrow?

Since you should get the car aligned once the new tie rods are installed, take the car and parts to an alignment shop and let them do the whole shebang.
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anthony
post Apr 8 2005, 04:43 PM
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You only need to adjust toe after a tie rod install. That's pretty easy for a DIYer.

AFAIK, GPR sells the good Lemforder Turbo tie-rods.

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TheCabinetmaker
post Apr 8 2005, 04:53 PM
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QUOTE (Travis Neff @ Apr 8 2005, 03:41 PM)
You want to be sure and get the OEM versions. They have castellated nuts and cotter pins. The knock off ones have a nylon lock nut only.

Turbo tie rods were OEM? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)
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anthony
post Apr 8 2005, 04:57 PM
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There were on a 930 Turbo!
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TheCabinetmaker
post Apr 8 2005, 04:59 PM
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QUOTE (anthony @ Apr 8 2005, 04:57 PM)
There were on a 930 Turbo!

Well damn! I've never got take one of those apart!
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eeyore
post Apr 8 2005, 05:09 PM
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QUOTE (anthony @ Apr 8 2005, 02:43 PM)
You only need to adjust toe after a tie rod install. That's pretty easy for a DIYer.

Correct! Sort of.

Setting toe isn't simply measuring front and back of the tires and twisting rod ends until there is a 1/8" difference. There's that whole issue about setting toe and getting the car to track straight AND having the steering wheel centered. Furthermore, for a street car, toe settings should not be identical due to uneven weight -- driver, no passenger -- and to compesate for the crown that roadways tend to have, which would push the car to the edge of the road.

So this messy wrenching and trial-and-error stuff is well worth $80 and the 2 block trip to the alignment shop for me. (Plus I don't have a 45mm spanner).

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smash.gif)
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TheCabinetmaker
post Apr 8 2005, 05:34 PM
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QUOTE (Cloudbuster @ Apr 8 2005, 05:09 PM)
QUOTE (anthony @ Apr 8 2005, 02:43 PM)
You only need to adjust toe after a tie rod install. That's pretty easy for a DIYer.

Correct! Sort of.

Setting toe isn't simply measuring front and back of the tires and twisting rod ends until there is a 1/8" difference. There's that whole issue about setting toe and getting the car to track straight AND having the steering wheel centered. Furthermore, for a street car, toe settings should not be identical due to uneven weight -- driver, no passenger -- and to compesate for the crown that roadways tend to have, which would push the car to the edge of the road.

So this messy wrenching and trial-and-error stuff is well worth $80 and the 2 block trip to the alignment shop for me. (Plus I don't have a 45mm spanner).

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smash.gif)

Road crown can be compensated for with caster. Caster keeps the car in a straight forward movement. We used to set caster with a half degree more on the passenger side to do this, but it is not as important as it used to be, as highways and interstates, and divided highways are crowned both directions these days. Left lane crowns to the left, right lane to the right, and centerlane? Too much caster makes it hard to turn. Not enough makes it impossible for the car to track. Toe is simply whether the wheels are paralell with each other and keeps the car from wandering left to right. Toe can easily be set with a simple jig and tape measure. Steering wheel can be centered with a simple road test.
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eeyore
post Apr 8 2005, 05:50 PM
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Zut alors!

I checked my settings and found the difference in the caster, not toe.

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Trekkor
post Apr 8 2005, 06:01 PM
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Got mine at HPH...

KT
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blk'72
post Apr 8 2005, 06:16 PM
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Hey guys how much time does turbo tie rods swap takes for diy's?
Cloudbuster are you Francais?
good info on this thread! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/clap.gif)
R.
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TheCabinetmaker
post Apr 8 2005, 06:43 PM
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QUOTE (blk'72 @ Apr 8 2005, 06:16 PM)
Hey guys how much time does turbo tie rods swap takes for diy's?
Cloudbuster are you Francais?
good info on this thread! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/clap.gif)
R.

Depends on your abilities and cooperation from the old stuff. My first time took 5 hours. Last one took 2 hours (not counting resetting the toe). Setting toe takes me an hour. I take my time, and do several test drives. Always use locktite on the rack end.
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TravisNeff
post Apr 8 2005, 08:59 PM
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Mine took 2 hours, but I cheated and dropped the whole suspension off of one car and put it on the other, then put the old stuff back on the other car. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/cool.gif)

I had some cheap wrenches I bought from HF and they were thin enough that I didn't need to get a special 1 use $50 wrench. You can take a grinder to a wrench as well, that still is cheaper to replace than purchasing the special tool.

Shouldn't take longer than an hour or two, take measurements first before you disasemble, your life will be a little easier when you get that done. If you don't we get to call you "gimpy"
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eeyore
post Apr 8 2005, 09:04 PM
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I cheated, doubly.

I did the balljoints, tie rods and master cylinder. I had intended to do the bushings as well, so I had crossmember and a-arms off. It was still a PITA to get the TTR boots onto the steering rack.

I'm not sure if this is recommended, but you could grind down the spacers to the same diameter as the TTR ends. That way I could use a really big Crescent wrench instead of a thin spanner.
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jgiroux67
post Apr 8 2005, 09:08 PM
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So which tie rods should I get? I changed to 911 supsension with the 3.5 spacing and the steering arms are farther in so the tie rods have to be shorter. Should I get tie rods for a 9ll or just shorten the 914 ones?
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eeyore
post Apr 8 2005, 09:19 PM
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The turbo tie rod kit for the 914 comes with spacers that are 4mm or so thick. I think that makes up the difference, and the tie rods themselves are the same for 911 and 914.

(Yes?)

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