Fibreglass molds Options

[BatFromHell]

Here's my beastie:
'73 Chalon GT kit. Original conversion had '89 GNX Twin Turbo
and Doug Nash (NASCAR) Tranny. Owner blew engine and sold tranny.
I will be transplanting '93 LT1 engine with '89 915 Euro tranny.
Would like to make replacement panels since this will be a purpose built race-car. Can anyone help me out on how to build molds for fenders, quarter panels, hood and decklid??

[BatFromHell]

Here's a rear view shot

[scotty b]

you can buy surfboard foam (not sure of the actual type of foam) to make your shape and then apply mold release, lay up the glass and once it kicks pop it loose,or glue to foam to the car and glass it onto the body for greater strength.

[BatFromHell]

Thanks Scott.
But I would like to make replacement panels of existing as shown on the car. This is the Chalon kit from the '70's which is no longer made.
Can I follow your directions after the foam step and apply mold release agent directly to existing panels and the glass it up.
What do you mean by "once it kicks" (once it hardens?).

What will applying release agent do to the existing panels.
Will this ruin them or is the remaining agent easy to remove afterward?

[Jeroen]

you'd need to clean up your existing bodyparts first (a smooth surface is important when making molds)
clean, polish, buff... what ever needed to get it shiney (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

then apply a release agent to your bodywork (usually a couple of coats of wax)
this is important, if you mess it up, you have a good chance to mess up the part you're trying to make a mold off

then you apply a gel coat after which you start laying up with f/g mats
on big pannels, like fenders, hoods etc, you need to put reinforcement ribs in your molds or the molds will warp and produce worthless new pieces

go to a local place that sells f/g stuff
they can get you all you need (including a good the release agent) and give you good info on how to do it too

[morph]

you will need to wax the area youre tring to get a mold from at least ten times.try to get tr mold release wax.
james

[Mike_S]

Making molds of body parts takes time. This is where you here the stories about panels requiring many hours to fit or not fitting at all. Before you even start thinking of molding it, you need to get jigged up in the exact shape it mounts on the car. You then have to build flanges around the edges and any openings. Determine if there is a locks, which now means a 2 or 3 part mold. When you actually start laying it up, you will need to reinforce it with metal or wood and make sure it stays in that shape and will lay flat when it's layed upside down. That's just a little info needed, if you've never done glass work you're in for some fun. Also remember that much polyesyer will STINK up where ever you do this. Start with something small first.

[neo914-6]

QUOTE (BatFromHell @ Apr 9 2005, 06:42 AM)

This is the Chalon kit from the '70's which is no longer made.

You may be wrong about that. Auto Component Design may still own the rights to make the panels that Mitcom originally sold. A member here (skline) bought a new Chalon kit a couple of years ago.

Auto Component Design
Fiberglass Trends
714-532-6140
1340 W. Collins Ave.
Orange, CA 92887

[BatFromHell]

Thx for the info guys
I will make a jig and take your recommendations/suggestions on the release agent and try to combine all your ideas into a permanent mold made from a wood box to give it strutural rigidity and the ability to make more the one good replacement panel.

Mike_S: If I build a jig and make an oversized box as to the panel I am molding and took Jeroen's suggestion of gelcoating after I "wax" the existing panel. How would I tie in the mold with the jig. Make the reinforcing strips as Jeroen suggested longer and then fasten to jig or "build up" the jig so that it matches the panel profile (surface) and then fiberglass and gelcoat the jig to the mould? Which is the better way to go?

Thx to everyone who contributed to this thread. Great advice.

[spare time toys]

How much trouble can he get into if someone else owns the rights to produce the parts?

[BatFromHell]

Neo914:
Checked with Fiberglass Trends. They do sell the complete kit for the Chalon GT II and they do sell replacement parts:

Left or right fenders: $145 each
Left or right rear quarter panels: $218 each
Rear valence: $440

Maybe someone in Admin can tell me where I can post this for all the Chalon kit owners.
Thx

[BatFromHell]

Larry "the lawyer": (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)
Parts will only be for my own personal use.
Don't know if that makes any difference, but you do have a point.
Does anyone know the copyrights infringements here and if I just modify mold enough to make it my "own" design, will this get around it? And would someone bother to come after me here in the Great White North?

[neo914-6]

QUOTE (spare time toys @ Apr 9 2005, 01:56 PM)

How much trouble can he get into if someone else owns the rights to produce the parts?

There is legal protection in this country for company's that produce a product for profit. Unfortunately it's up to the company's ability to pay for that "protection".

All he would need to do is make sure he is not breaking any laws. One such method is to prove he is not producing parts to make a profit. Another is to show they are different enough from the original product if he is going to sell them.

Hell, they are copies of Porsche Carrera parts and Porsche didn't cease their production! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

If he's going to the trouble to make molds, several of us can benefit from less expensive Chalon replacement parts.

[Jeroen]

QUOTE (BatFromHell @ Apr 9 2005, 10:48 PM)

Mike_S: If I build a jig and make an oversized box as to the panel I am molding and took Jeroen's suggestion of gelcoating after I "wax" the existing panel. How would I tie in the mold with the jig. Make the reinforcing strips as Jeroen suggested longer and then fasten to jig or "build up" the jig so that it matches the panel profile (surface) and then fiberglass and gelcoat the jig to the mould? Which is the better way to go?

gelcoat, then lay up a couple of layers for a base and then glass in your frame

[GWN7]

You can take a look at some sites that do fiberglass to give you some ideas as what to do, like http://www.gunnarracing.com/ or vist a local fiberglass place that builds stuff to see how the molds are made.

I was at a fiberglass parts manufacture on Friday thru work (they had two large roll on garbage bins on fire) and their yard was full of molds. It was interesting to see how some stuff was done.

[Mike_S]

If that is all the parts cost I wouldn't bother making molds. you'll spend at least that much in materials for each mold plus your time. If you wanted to make your own design that's another story.
The best way would be to go to a fiberglass shop and look at molds. It's kind of hard to describe it correctly without seeing one. There are also good books on the subject.

[BatFromHell]

Thanks Jeroen:
I will give that a try on a small part first and see if it works.
Just worried about delamination but I guess I won't know unless I try.
Thanks for the help guys.

[Brett W]

This site shows it best.

http://www.ddrmotorsport.com/process.html

[Jeroen]

thanks for posting that link
it's totally awesome!

[neo914-6]

QUOTE (BatFromHell @ Apr 9 2005, 02:14 PM)

Larry "the lawyer": (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) Parts will only be for my own personal use. Don't know if that makes any difference, but you do have a point. Does anyone know the copyrights infringements here and if I just modify mold enough to make it my "own" design, will this get around it? And would someone bother to come after me here in the Great White North?

Larry,

Don't sweat it, they will be copies of copies... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif)

Post progress pics, I don't think anyone here on the board has produced molds for full fenders. I believe HPH Bontempi flared fenders are professionally manufactured.

Consider removing the bellows and moving the bumper toward the body for a cleaner look.