Leaking fuel pump |
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Leaking fuel pump |
BillC |
Jul 10 2016, 04:00 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 536 Joined: 24-April 15 From: Silver Spring, MD Member No.: 18,667 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
My 914 has been up on jackstands since December. In that time, I installed the CFR stainless fuel lines and and new fuel hoses (and a bunch of other stuff). I finally finished putting everything back together and took it off the jackstands this afternoon <yay!>.
I then put about 1.5 gallons of gas in it, had my son stand by with a fire extinguisher, and tried to start it up. I started by cycling the key on and off a few times, to allow the pump to prime itself and fill the fuel lines. Then, I heard it -- the disheartening sound of fuel splattering on the floor. <crap!>. So, back onto stands and start poking around trying to find what was leaking. I was hoping to find a loose clamp or something simple. But, that's not my luck. It turns out the fuel pump is leaking internally -- fuel is coming out through and around the electrical connector. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Any idea what happened? The car was running fine before I jacked it up for its long-deferred maintenance. The pump was out of the car for a few months, could it have dried out internally and something cracked/failed? And, does anyone have a known-good fuel pump that will fit my '73 1.7 D-Jet? I put a "wanted" ad in the classifieds section, but thought I might as well ask here, while I'm at it. Or, would y'all recommend getting the rebuilt pump from AA? At $395, it aint cheap. Does anyone have any experience with it? Is it any good. I know y'all would probably just recommend relocating the pump to the front, but I'd really like to keep the car as original as possible. |
PlantMan |
Jul 10 2016, 05:00 PM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 435 Joined: 14-May 14 From: Mission Viejo Member No.: 17,352 Region Association: Southern California |
If it is the original pump, it will happen eventually.
I purchased an Airtek pump off Amazon for around $70. Also got a fuel gauge to mount on the fuel rail and necessary fittings all for under $100. I mounted my pump on the firewall cause it was easier to access. Do a search if you need additional info. You will find a bunch of usuefull threads. Good luck! |
BillC |
Jul 10 2016, 05:13 PM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 536 Joined: 24-April 15 From: Silver Spring, MD Member No.: 18,667 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
If it is the original pump, it will happen eventually. I purchased an Airtek pump off Amazon for around $70. Also got a fuel gauge to mount on the fuel rail and necessary fittings all for under $100. I mounted my pump on the firewall cause it was easier to access. Do a search if you need additional info. You will find a bunch of usuefull threads. Good luck! I've done a search, and found a lot of posts about relocating the pump, but very little about the stock pumps. And nothing about the rebuilt pumps. I found two places selling rebuilt pumps -- AA and Parts Heaven. Does anyone have any experience with rebuilt pumps from either of those vendors? I'm aware of AA's general reputation here, but I'm asking about the rebuilt pump in particular. As I said earlier, I'd really like to stay stock if I can. |
JawjaPorsche |
Jul 11 2016, 03:03 AM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,463 Joined: 23-July 11 From: Clayton, Georgia Member No.: 13,351 Region Association: South East States |
Three prong pumps like to leak. Replaced mine with two prong pump. New ones are easily available. Moved to firewall, much easier than tank.
I like to keep mine stock too. But peace of mind overruled with fire safety concerns. Unless someone climbs under, no one will know. |
McMark |
Jul 11 2016, 07:31 AM
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#5
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
You best bet is to convert to a two port pump. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I found good fuel resistant o-rings to try and seal these pumps, but the pumps are not easy to open and reclose. So resealing becomes a bit of a gamble -- it depends more on your ability to bend the little tabs out of the way, and then retension them after.
And that doesn't even factor in the pressure relief setup which is that small aluminum 'knob' on the side. Those can leak as well and that little cap suffers the same issue with removal/installation. I consider any used pump to be ready to fail as well. So unless you absolutely need accuracy, converting to a two port will allow you to buy a brand new pump which will last the life of the car. |
BillC |
Jul 11 2016, 09:10 AM
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#6
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 536 Joined: 24-April 15 From: Silver Spring, MD Member No.: 18,667 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
You best bet is to convert to a two port pump. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I found good fuel resistant o-rings to try and seal these pumps, but the pumps are not easy to open and reclose. So resealing becomes a bit of a gamble -- it depends more on your ability to bend the little tabs out of the way, and then retension them after. And that doesn't even factor in the pressure relief setup which is that small aluminum 'knob' on the side. Those can leak as well and that little cap suffers the same issue with removal/installation. I consider any used pump to be ready to fail as well. So unless you absolutely need accuracy, converting to a two port will allow you to buy a brand new pump which will last the life of the car. Are there any two-port fuel pumps that have the inlet and outlet ports on the same end? If I could find one that could be made to fit in the stock location, it would make converting much simpler. All of the two-port pumps I've seen have the ports on opposite ends (inlet on one end, outlet on the other). |
TheCabinetmaker |
Jul 11 2016, 10:18 AM
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#7
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I drive my car everyday Group: Members Posts: 8,300 Joined: 8-May 03 From: Tulsa, Ok. Member No.: 666 |
You don't want the pump in the stock location unless you like sitting on the side of the road waiting for the vapor lock to subside. When the heater is off during the summer all the heat from the passenger heat exchanger dumps directly on the fuel pump
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JawjaPorsche |
Jul 11 2016, 11:45 AM
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#8
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,463 Joined: 23-July 11 From: Clayton, Georgia Member No.: 13,351 Region Association: South East States |
You don't want the pump in the stock location unless you like sitting on the side of the road waiting for the vapor lock to subside. When the heater is off during the summer all the heat from the passenger heat exchanger dumps directly on the fuel pump I agree! Mine vapor locked one time in Phoenix area in 100+ heat and the state patrol stopped and said when it cooled off and started, drive with heater on to prevent dumping on the fuel pump. It worked but it was hot in the car even with top off! |
Mark Henry |
Jul 11 2016, 01:42 PM
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#9
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
You don't want the pump in the stock location unless you like sitting on the side of the road waiting for the vapor lock to subside. When the heater is off during the summer all the heat from the passenger heat exchanger dumps directly on the fuel pump One thing you can do, if you don't want to move your pump, is cut the bypass cap off the flapper valve and run a flex hose to the other side. |
Amphicar770 |
Jul 11 2016, 01:49 PM
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#10
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,191 Joined: 20-April 10 From: PA, USA Member No.: 11,639 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Bosch 2-port is $66 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZL8S2 I think someone mentioned a Volvo pump which has same sized fitting on either end. |
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