1.8 CHT sensor, Cant find any for sale Options

[RohJay]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-Sensor-Cyl...kex&vxp=mtr

Price is nuts

That is astounding..
I bought the following on ebay for 23.70 last Aug. It had sold last at 74.95 :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/361069640496?item=...em=&vxp=mtr

If USED is ok, have you checked Samba? Here's a couple I came across:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1586361

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1804271

[Mikey914]

$30 I'll send you one of my custom ones that are better than stock.

Please elaborate,(better accuracy?)
Always nice to know what's out there.

[saigon71]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-Sensor-Cyl...kex&vxp=mtr

Price is nuts

That is astounding..
I bought the following on ebay for 23.70 last Aug. It had sold last at 74.95 :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/361069640496?item=...em=&vxp=mtr

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Think I paid around $20 for an 012 a few years back from ebay. I guess the supply is drying up again and sellers are getting greedy.

I'm quite curious about McMarks CHT - it may be the best solution now.

[jim_hoyland]

See:. http://www.ratwell.com/technical/TempSensorII.html

Useful info on a variety of related topics too

[McMark]

The stock sensor is some spring based variable resistance setup. I don't really know how it works, and I'm sure for it's time it was the status quo in terms of technology, but nowadays we have thermistors. Solid state components.

I had two stock sensors go out on my turbo car, possibly due to heat, but regardless it's really not a component that should fail.

I found a unit that matches the stock heat-resistance curve and embed it into the shell of a stock unit. Which reminds me, I'd need core sensors to build off of.

[Mueller]

The stock sensor is some spring based variable resistance setup. I don't really know how it works, and I'm sure for it's time it was the status quo in terms of technology, but nowadays we have thermistors. Solid state components.

I had two stock sensors go out on my turbo car, possibly due to heat, but regardless it's really not a component that should fail.

I found a unit that matches the stock heat-resistance curve and embed it into the shell of a stock unit. Which reminds me, I'd need core sensors to build off of.

Hey Mark,

Can this sensor be used with Megasquirt installs?

[stugray]

connect the sensor wire to the input of a switch with the output of the switch hooked to GND.

Warm up the motor with the switch open, and when it is warm, flip the switch closed.

As the CHT warms up it's resistance approaches zero ohms (a 'short' to GND).
The switch can simulate this.
If someone knows the exact resistance of the CHT when warm/hot, you can put a fixed resistor of that value on the output of the switch.

Not a permanent solution, but it would get you driving again.

[MartyYeoman]

I like the way you think.

[McMark]

Hey Mark,

Can this sensor be used with Megasquirt installs?

Works on mine. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[djway]

The stock sensor is some spring based variable resistance setup. I don't really know how it works, and I'm sure for it's time it was the status quo in terms of technology, but nowadays we have thermistors. Solid state components.

I had two stock sensors go out on my turbo car, possibly due to heat, but regardless it's really not a component that should fail.

I found a unit that matches the stock heat-resistance curve and embed it into the shell of a stock unit. Which reminds me, I'd need core sensors to build off of.

I have the unit that would not allow the car to work at all I can send you and purchase one of yours.
Let me know how to get one of yours and I can send you the core.

[djway]

Since I have your attention (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) After putting in the CHT and adjusting the AFS wiper the car idled fine and stopped belching smoke. The next afternoon I put a timming light on it just to confirm advance before taking for a longer drive. Now the car idles around 600 rpm and the adjustment on the throttle body wont bring it up much at all and there is a bit of smoke again.
I did tear apart and reassemble the throttle body and I am thinking I may have the butterfly in a bit off. Full disclosure about a week ago I knew nothing about FI or L-Jet or even how to use a multimeter. Luckily I learn rapidly and was able to get it running again but lack of experience in a hindrance in knowing which spot to look.
I did have some mean backfires the first day I worked on it so I guess that could have damaged something.
If I am not successful with the throttle body, what else should I do?

List so far.
Multi vacuum tube leaks and tear in boot repaired. No more can be found.
Timing correct.
Valves correct.
All 5 injectors pulled and left under pressure for several hours, no leaks.
All 5 injectors have proper resistance. The 4 in the heads at 3 ohm and the cold start valve at 4 ohm.
Fuel pump operates correctly and at proper pressure, a steady 36lbs.
Full throttle switch operates properly.
Aux air valve closes and re opens but I am not sure if it opens completely as I have never looked at another for comaprison.
Timed thermal sensor is giving the proper resistance signal, and again cold start valve not squirting when it should not.
The car accelerates properly and manual movement of the AFS sensor does not help idle.
All I can think of is I did something a little off in the throttle body. I can manually open it slightly and it idles fine. If there were an idle screw I would be OK right now, theoretically. I can create a small vacuum leak and it idles right up.
Any other thoughts out there for this rookie?
Thanks

[catsltd]

Since I have your attention (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) After putting in the CHT and adjusting the AFS wiper the car idled fine and stopped belching smoke. The next afternoon I put a timming light on it just to confirm advance before taking for a longer drive. Now the car idles around 600 rpm and the adjustment on the throttle body wont bring it up much at all and there is a bit of smoke again.
I did tear apart and reassemble the throttle body and I am thinking I may have the butterfly in a bit off. Full disclosure about a week ago I knew nothing about FI or L-Jet or even how to use a multimeter. Luckily I learn rapidly and was able to get it running again but lack of experience in a hindrance in knowing which spot to look.
I did have some mean backfires the first day I worked on it so I guess that could have damaged something.
If I am not successful with the throttle body, what else should I do?

List so far.
Multi vacuum tube leaks and tear in boot repaired. No more can be found.
Timing correct.
Valves correct.
All 5 injectors pulled and left under pressure for several hours, no leaks.
All 5 injectors have proper resistance. The 4 in the heads at 3 ohm and the cold start valve at 4 ohm.
Fuel pump operates correctly and at proper pressure, a steady 36lbs.
Full throttle switch operates properly.
Aux air valve closes and re opens but I am not sure if it opens completely as I have never looked at another for comaprison.
Timed thermal sensor is giving the proper resistance signal, and again cold start valve not squirting when it should not.
The car accelerates properly and manual movement of the AFS sensor does not help idle.
All I can think of is I did something a little off in the throttle body. I can manually open it slightly and it idles fine. If there were an idle screw I would be OK right now, theoretically. I can create a small vacuum leak and it idles right up.
Any other thoughts out there for this rookie?
Thanks

I took my 74/1.8L to a shop for timing and valve adjustment,car was quiter but had no power.
Finally did my own timing and valve adjustment car runs like a top.
Just my 2 cents.
Car also uses much less oil,and no more smoke out the exhaust.

[76-914]

I'm of no help as I don't know LJet but I wouldn't freak out about CHT senders. Buy one of Marks thermistors. There dead nuts on or but a variable resistor from Radio Shack for < $7 and dial in the value you need with an ohm meter or turn it until you get the idle you want. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[914_teener]

I'm of no help as I don't know LJet but I wouldn't freak out about CHT senders. Buy one of Marks thermistors. There dead nuts on or but a variable resistor from Radio Shack for < $7 and dial in the value you need with an ohm meter or turn it until you get the idle you want. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

I am using one that McMark made for me to test a couple of years ago for my car which is inducted with the stock D-jet. It uses a modern thermistor that he made to test with a dedicated ground.

It is running flawlessly. I think the dedicated ground helps. I think after a few years from the heat cycling the stock CHT ground uses the body of the CHT. Over time it builds up oxidation causing resistance. My theory FWIW.

I'm not the EE that Stu is......I know enough of that shite to get myself into it and then ask for help.

[djway]

I'm of no help as I don't know LJet but I wouldn't freak out about CHT senders. Buy one of Marks thermistors. There dead nuts on or but a variable resistor from Radio Shack for < $7 and dial in the value you need with an ohm meter or turn it until you get the idle you want. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

I sent him a note that I have a core and would like to get one. The current idle problem is strictly air flow, I think LOL

[djway]

I'm of no help as I don't know LJet but I wouldn't freak out about CHT senders. Buy one of Marks thermistors. There dead nuts on or but a variable resistor from Radio Shack for < $7 and dial in the value you need with an ohm meter or turn it until you get the idle you want. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

I am using one that McMark made for me to test a couple of years ago for my car which is inducted with the stock D-jet. It uses a modern thermistor that he made to test with a dedicated ground.

It is running flawlessly. I think the dedicated ground helps. I think after a few years from the heat cycling the stock CHT ground uses the body of the CHT. Over time it builds up oxidation causing resistance. My theory FWIW.

I'm not the EE that Stu is......I know enough of that shite to get myself into it and then ask for help.

Heck I don't need to know nuttin to dig in deep LOL (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

[TheCabinetmaker]

After hours of searching I finally found a place that provided a new part number.
Engine Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor-Bosch 802 54117 101 Around $30

It list all of the same vehicles as the old part number.

Funny that all the Porsche sellers don't seem to know this.
It made no sense that this many vehicles would have no supply

A Google search of that number turned up nothing for me. I searched # 311 906 041 A (Porsche part#) and found several places that have them in stock for around$30. All suppliers showed the part for an Audi.

https://www.audipartssuperstore.com/Product...uFc0xoCALbw_wcB

[914_teener]

I'm of no help as I don't know LJet but I wouldn't freak out about CHT senders. Buy one of Marks thermistors. There dead nuts on or but a variable resistor from Radio Shack for < $7 and dial in the value you need with an ohm meter or turn it until you get the idle you want. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

I am using one that McMark made for me to test a couple of years ago for my car which is inducted with the stock D-jet. It uses a modern thermistor that he made to test with a dedicated ground.

It is running flawlessly. I think the dedicated ground helps. I think after a few years from the heat cycling the stock CHT ground uses the body of the CHT. Over time it builds up oxidation causing resistance. My theory FWIW.

I'm not the EE that Stu is......I know enough of that shite to get myself into it and then ask for help.

Heck I don't need to know nuttin to dig in deep LOL (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) ...."I've been thinking too much......HELP me".......

[djway]

$30 I'll send you one of my custom ones that are better than stock.

I sent you a pm a few days ago. Did you see it?

[McMark]

Worked from 7am to 10:30pm yesterday. Just replied.