Do I have everything I need for a rear main seal replacement? Options

[era vulgaris]

Decided to replace my RMS myself. First time I've pulled a trans, so I want to make sure I have everything I need before I start.

- 12 point triple square bit for CV bolts
- Flywheel lock
- clutch alignment tool

- Sabo RMS
- Flywheel o ring
- felt washer
- crush washer

- new CV gaskets
- new schnorr washers for CV bolts

Should I get a new pilot bearing? My engine and trans only have about 15,000 miles on them.
Anything to do with the clutch fork that needs to be taken care of when the trans is removed?
Is there anything else I'll need? Can all other bolts and washers be re-used?

[brant]

I like to have the shifting fork cup (where the fork pivots) on hand...
and also the tranny bell housing main shaft seal


often when you get the tranny off the motor you can find its actually the tranny seal leaking rather than the rear main motor seal

if its really wet in there and the disk is wet with oil, you will have to replace the disk... hopefully not your situation

[rhodyguy]

Throw out arm pivot bushing. The 2 plastic clips that hold the t o bearing. If you had excessive washers/spacers on the clutch cable, a washer under the TOB arm pivot post. This is stuff that will cost you next to nothing.

[Mark Henry]

Pilot bearing is only a few bucks and easy to do. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[era vulgaris]

Awesome, thanks guys.

So, added to the list...

- trans main seal
- pilot bearing
- pivot bushing
- TO bearing clips

Are these pics the correct pivot bushing and the TO bearing clips?

[era vulgaris]

Also in my searches I read somewhere that the clutch alignment tool that Pelican sells isn't the correct size. Is this true? What is the correct size needed?

[76-914]

Since this is your 1st time; 1, there is a bolt on top left side that is easy if you have a friend. If not you'll set a closed end wrench on the bolt head from the engine side or the nut on the tranny side will not come off. 2, the tranny might want to stick to the engine when you try to remove it. Maybe not. But if it does just man handle it and rock it about a wee bit. BE SURE that the rear of the engine is properly supported before you begin yanking on the tranny. Take a ton of pic's. You might need them to refer to later on. 3, mark or measure where the nuts are on the clutch cable. It will save you several trips back under the car. 4, take yer time aligning the disc. If it's a new one slide it upon the pilot shaft before installing to be sure it fits. Don't forget to clean out the allen head screws on your CV's before trying to remove them or you'll strip one. 5, talking to ones self is allowed and don't forget to have fun. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Kent

[Mark Henry]

You can do it by eyeball, a proper size dowel, or a FLAPs universal pilot kit
It just has to be centered.

[rhodyguy]

Those are the parts I mentioned. I forgot the fork retaining plate. #901-116-077-01 OEM. More cheap piece of mind.

[saigon71]

Decided to replace my RMS myself. First time I've pulled a trans, so I want to make sure I have everything I need before I start.

- 12 point triple square bit for CV bolts
- Flywheel lock
- clutch alignment tool

- Sabo RMS
- Flywheel o ring
- felt washer
- crush washer

- new CV gaskets
- new schnorr washers for CV bolts

Should I get a new pilot bearing? My engine and trans only have about 15,000 miles on them.
Anything to do with the clutch fork that needs to be taken care of when the trans is removed?
Is there anything else I'll need? Can all other bolts and washers be re-used?

When you mention "crush washer" are you referring to the plate that goes under the flywheel bolts and locks them in place? If not, add that to the list.

Let us know how you make out.

[era vulgaris]

When you mention "crush washer" are you referring to the plate that goes under the flywheel bolts and locks them in place? If not, add that to the list.

Let us know how you make out.

This thing, right?

[era vulgaris]

Since this is your 1st time; 1, there is a bolt on top left side that is easy if you have a friend. If not you'll set a closed end wrench on the bolt head from the engine side or the nut on the tranny side will not come off. 2, the tranny might want to stick to the engine when you try to remove it. Maybe not. But if it does just man handle it and rock it about a wee bit. BE SURE that the rear of the engine is properly supported before you begin yanking on the tranny. Take a ton of pic's. You might need them to refer to later on. 3, mark or measure where the nuts are on the clutch cable. It will save you several trips back under the car. 4, take yer time aligning the disc. If it's a new one slide it upon the pilot shaft before installing to be sure it fits. Don't forget to clean out the allen head screws on your CV's before trying to remove them or you'll strip one. 5, talking to ones self is allowed and don't forget to have fun. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Kent

I think I read about that bolt. It's the top mounting bolt for the starter, right?

#5 will for sure be happening. And I can probably guarantee that a solid 70% of what a say to myself will be swear words directed at the car!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[saigon71]

When you mention "crush washer" are you referring to the plate that goes under the flywheel bolts and locks them in place? If not, add that to the list.

Let us know how you make out.

This thing, right?

Yep, that's it.

[wndsrfr]

Also in my searches I read somewhere that the clutch alignment tool that Pelican sells isn't the correct size. Is this true? What is the correct size needed?

Easiest & bulletproof is to wedge a pair of similar screwdrivers in along the edge of the pressure plate at 4 o'clock & 8 o'clock to center the clutch disk as you finger tighten the pressure plate bolts. I then follow up with a stack of feeler gage leaves measuring at top, bottom, 9 & 3 o'clock. Usually something like about .035" will just slip in all around--that way you know for sure it's centered. Tighten the bolts--(don't overtorque, they don't take that much) & you're done.

[era vulgaris]

Alright, all parts have been ordered. Thanks so much for the tips and info, guys! I'll post back with how it turns out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[jrblackbox]

case of beer? just sayin.

[catsltd]

I just did mine,well still doing.

Good Luck.
If you think nothing will go wrong your wrong.
My Pelican pilot guide thing worked well for me aligning my pressure plate etc.
Wear safety galsses,unless you like lots of crap in your eyes.

[era vulgaris]

case of beer? just sayin.

That's always in stock here. No need to order it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

[era vulgaris]

I just did mine,well still doing.

Good Luck.
If you think nothing will go wrong your wrong.
My Pelican pilot guide thing worked well for me aligning my pressure plate etc.
Wear safety galsses,unless you like lots of crap in your eyes.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
Oh I'm fully expecting something to wrong. It always does!
That's why I want to have every single part I may need on hand.

My car's nether regions aren't too dirty. Only about 15,000 miles on it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
I always start off wearing safety glasses if I'm under a car, but down here in the South when it's 90 degrees and 90-billion % humidity (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) , those damn things just fog up constantly so I always end up tossing them aside. Probably dumb, but at least I can see what I'm doing....until the sweat starts running down my forehead like a waterfall.
You should come visit the South in the summer, it's lovely! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

[catsltd]

I just did mine,well still doing.

Good Luck.
If you think nothing will go wrong your wrong.
My Pelican pilot guide thing worked well for me aligning my pressure plate etc.
Wear safety galsses,unless you like lots of crap in your eyes.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
Oh I'm fully expecting something to wrong. It always does!
That's why I want to have every single part I may need on hand.

My car's nether regions aren't too dirty. Only about 15,000 miles on it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
I always start off wearing safety glasses if I'm under a car, but down here in the South when it's 90 degrees and 90-billion % humidity (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) , those damn things just fog up constantly so I always end up tossing them aside. Probably dumb, but at least I can see what I'm doing....until the sweat starts running down my forehead like a waterfall.
You should come visit the South in the summer, it's lovely! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

My 74 had 40 years of dirt,so I had a lot of shit in my eyes day 1.

Luckily it looked like they had just replaced my clutch throw out bearing etc.
So I only had a few problems.

The shift linkage by firewall had stripped thing,so was unable to loosen it,so it stayed while removing tranny.

A few stripped CV bolts.3 Head studs came out while taking off exhaust,
Flywheel has stripped bolt,but they threaded it for a bigger heavier bolt.Found some bare burned wires,Throw out bearing cup shot,and loose.To say it was fun was a understatement.
I did it all myself,so it can be done,but better if you have someones shoulder to cry on.LOLOL.Good Luck.