Heat Flapper Box, anyone have a good fix Options

[malcolm2]

I recently did some ALT work and had to remove the flapper box. When I put it back, I guess I had the cable too tight and the damn thing was left open slightly.

90+* outside and my foot was burning up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

I pulled it off and checked it out. The thing really does not seal very well even with the pull cable totally off. And it seems to be impossible to re-work or improve. I shined a light in the HE end and the flap just does not touch the box on the end away from the hinge.

Short of buying a new one, does anyone have a solution?

[injunmort]

remove the hoses for summer, mine does the same thing. you might be able to make a sealing gasket out of an old inner tube and glue it to the flapper. i just remove the hoses for the summer.

[TheCabinetmaker]

Available new, I think.

[Mikey914]

If it worked before, I would venture a guess you could adjust the barrel nut to relieve some pressure and solve the problem.

[914werke]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
if that doesnt work the arm is no longer "clocked" to allow it to close fully.
bend/twist it (w/o breaking it) on the shaft to allow enough slack that it will close.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

[malcolm2]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
if that doesnt work the arm is no longer "clocked" to allow it to close fully.
bend/twist it (w/o breaking it) on the shaft to allow enough slack that it will close.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

I can adjust the cable to make the flap close as far as it can on the bench. But on the bench, with no cable attached and shining a flashlight in the input hole, I get a ton of light. Or I blow backwards thru the flex hose a ton of air escapes out the inlet.

I did a search and found that Chris Foley had found a replacement spring and posted a thread several years back, but the thread never took off. His spring was the one that is cone shaped and is sandwiched between the inner flaps.

With all you Cali guys out there, I suppose there aren't very many of you that care about heat.

I stay pretty warm with the heat off, but the passenger side seals leak cold air right on my wife's ear. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

[scott_in_nh]

my valves work pretty well, that said they still put out some heat.

So when it is warm, I direct the hot air to the windshield, with the top off it just blows out of the car, and I direct the outside air to the footwell.

I leave my hoses on because it still can cool off here most anytime of year, especially at night.

[malcolm2]

I would like to figure a way to keep them on too. The cars rust enough. I don't want water gettin in the tube in the long.

If you do remove it, an empty mini can of corn fits nicely.

[saigon71]

I battled the same problem for a while.

I had two problems:

1. The cable on the passenger side was too short. I had to pull on the heat box lever to get the barrel nut attached. I bent up some copper to use as a template and added weld to the end of the cable connection to increase the length. From what I hear this is a common problem with the cables.

2. The heater boxes were shot. After sweating for two years, I figured it was worth $200 to pop on a new Dansk set.

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