Removing rear control arm? |
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Removing rear control arm? |
jporsche914 |
Apr 14 2005, 03:38 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 149 Joined: 9-March 04 From: colorado, springs Member No.: 1,769 |
It is time to replace the bushings in my 914 and i have a couple questions about removing the control arm. My first question is how hard is it to remove and reinstall the hub and driveshaft from the control arm. This is really the only thing i am woried about. Is there somthing in this process that i should be carefull with so i dont screw everything up? Is this a weekend job or should i wait until i have 4 or 5 days off?
Thanks Alot, James |
lapuwali |
Apr 14 2005, 03:55 PM
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#2
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Not another one! Group: Benefactors Posts: 4,526 Joined: 1-March 04 From: San Mateo, CA Member No.: 1,743 |
Look in the Classic threads. Eric Shea covered this extensively, with pictures.
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Eric_Shea |
Apr 14 2005, 04:14 PM
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#3
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,274 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
I'd say it's a weekend job if you have all the parts, nothing goes wrong and you've got a press and some air tools. Otherwise... plan on your 5 day thingy.
When you say remove hub do you mean you'll be replacing your bearings as well? You don't need to remove the hub to get the bushings off. Bushings come out best with a press. I heat the rod end that I'll initially be pressing with a MAPP torch. It helps break the bond it has on the bushing. Press it through and remove the bushing with a large screwdriver. Turn the control arm over and press the rod back the other way. Same torch method. Same screwdriver. Best to cut grease grooves in the new bushings and lube with your favorite synthetic grease. If you don't have a press you can probably use the torch to burn the bushings out. It's worth the $99.00 Harbor Freight investment to get the press (IMHO). If you'll be removing the hub and the bearings it's best to use a drift on the hub. I use an old 911 torsion bar with the fat end. One whack with the sledge and they're outta there. Next the bearing has to come out. I use a blunt ended chisel on an air hammer. If they don't move after a couple of short bursts then I apply heat with the MAPP torch again. That usually breaks the bond. Good luck. Let me know if you have any questions while digging in... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smash.gif) |
jporsche914 |
Apr 14 2005, 04:28 PM
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#4
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Member Group: Members Posts: 149 Joined: 9-March 04 From: colorado, springs Member No.: 1,769 |
So all i have to do is remove the drive shaft and the brake and unbolt the control arm to get the arm off the car?
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Dave_Darling |
Apr 14 2005, 04:40 PM
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#5
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,982 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
Don't forget the shock.
--DD |
RustyWa |
Apr 14 2005, 10:52 PM
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#6
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Working Member Group: Members Posts: 610 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Kent, WA Member No.: 72 |
I've been doing some reading about cutting grooves in the bushings. At least one person suggested against this practice as it could weaken the bushing and cause it to "flow" prematurely. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)
Any other opinions on this? I was hoping you could do this, somewhat easily, without removing the whole trailing arm from the car. |
Joe Ricard |
Apr 15 2005, 06:20 AM
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#7
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CUMONIWANNARACEU Group: Members Posts: 6,811 Joined: 5-January 03 From: Gautier, MS Member No.: 92 |
Well here is what I did and it wasn't too bad...
Left the trailing arm on the car just dropped the pivot end. Note: measure the distance from the hub to like the door edge so you can get toe back close to what you had. Used propane torch burned out the rubber bushing. match fit the welt race compound bushings to the shaft. once bushings were in the housing I drilled holes for grease fittings. Then put in the shaft and bolted up the hole thing. Did a string alignment and found that the wheels were still pointing in same direction. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/mueba.gif) |
Eric_Shea |
Apr 15 2005, 07:28 AM
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#8
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,274 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Eric,
They "flow" prematurely anyway... JP has a nice picture of that somewhere. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) If done properly, meaning don't hack the shit out of it, I think it could "extend" the life of those bushings. We're talking shallow grooves in the center (not all the way from end to end) to hold some synthetic grease. I'd rather leave them in if they're in decent shape and don't vary beyond 2mm on either side (top to bottom). |
Eric_Shea |
Apr 15 2005, 08:31 AM
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#9
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,274 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Pretty much, other than the shock Dave mentioned. With the shock, it's sometimes easier to leave it on and remove the entire assembly. Taking the top shock bolt off is much easier than getting a 22 or a 24mm on the bottom "sliver" of a bolt. The rest is pretty straight forward. If you're planning on a weekend job, go out now and try to get some penetration oil down into the 17mm bolt shafts. There should be three plastic plugs well hidden on "top" of the forward suspension consoule under a bunch of undercoating and crud. Pop those off and spray some PB Blaster down into each one. You'll have the three 17mm bolts per side and the 22mm nuts holding the control arm onto the mounts. |
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cdmcse |
Apr 15 2005, 09:39 AM
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#10
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Member Group: Members Posts: 340 Joined: 17-December 04 From: Georgetown, Ky Member No.: 3,305 |
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif) Take lots of care with those 3 bolts. They are very difficult to get out if the break off. |
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andys |
Apr 15 2005, 09:51 AM
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#11
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,165 Joined: 21-May 03 From: Valencia, CA Member No.: 721 Region Association: None |
I've recently had some lengthy discussions with the engineers at Energy Suspensions. They mfg urethane suspension bushings for just about anything (except the 914). I did ask a lot of questions with regard to the dreaded bushing squeak. Two things, they said. 1. Excessive preload is usually the first mistake people make....tighter is not better. 2. Outside of THEIR lube, they suggested either marine grease (due to it's heavy body), or anti-sieze; the Teflon based type. FWIW. Andy |
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Eric_Shea |
Apr 15 2005, 12:50 PM
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#12
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,274 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
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