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> Idle Speed Issue - 1975 1.8L
Dave_Darling
post Sep 1 2016, 03:27 PM
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I bet you could cut the opening in the disc in the 1.8 valve to let more air through. You could probably drill the rotor in the 1.7/2.0 version, as well. You'd still be limited by the vacuum fittings and the bends through the piece, but you could likely get more than you have that way.

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orthobiz
post Sep 1 2016, 03:57 PM
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I had a constantly searching idle on my 1974 1.8. Brad Mayeur fixed it with a "new" vacuum advance on the distributor. One side was not making a proper seal or something.

Good luck!

Paul
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pete000
post Sep 1 2016, 04:15 PM
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I have a few AARs and noticed some of the heater elements are just pressed in and can rotate in the housing. I also have one that has a pin in it preventing it from spinning or pulling out.
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orthobiz
post Sep 1 2016, 05:27 PM
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Also, my car would idle OK when cold and then conked out when warmed up for only a couple of minutes. I had bad connections in the dual relay so I'd recommend cleaning the contacts to it, just to try it.

Paul
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Porschef
post Sep 1 2016, 05:44 PM
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QUOTE(The Cabinetmaker @ Sep 1 2016, 08:33 AM) *

Same as yours and same symptoms. It runs, but very low rpm.


And you're fine after that time? (or at least acceptable?)
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TheCabinetmaker
post Sep 1 2016, 05:56 PM
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QUOTE(Porschef @ Sep 1 2016, 06:44 PM) *

QUOTE(The Cabinetmaker @ Sep 1 2016, 08:33 AM) *

Same as yours and same symptoms. It runs, but very low rpm.


And you're fine after that time? (or at least acceptable?)

Yep. Just fine after warm up.
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Porschef
post Sep 1 2016, 06:06 PM
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Ok. I know I tested my AAR and it operated fine. Not sure if I checked the harness... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
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telank
post Sep 1 2016, 07:43 PM
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QUOTE(pete000 @ Sep 1 2016, 06:15 PM) *

I have a few AARs and noticed some of the heater elements are just pressed in and can rotate in the housing. I also have one that has a pin in it preventing it from spinning or pulling out.



Mine is the "pressed in" style without any locating pin. I have been working with it the last couple evenings and it acts as though it doesn't have enough force to reopen the valve when it cools. I can get it set so the valve is open when cold. It closes when it heats, but won't fully open again.

Guessing I've no choice at this point but get a replacement?

Any thoughts or ideas welcomed!

Thanks!

Tim
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timothy_nd28
post Sep 2 2016, 07:44 AM
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I think I'm being baited here. I'm unaware of any hoses on a Ljet system that you can disconnect and the engine would remain running
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Dave_Darling
post Sep 2 2016, 11:18 AM
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You can disconnect some of the small ones. If things are adjusted very rich, you might even be able to run with one of the moderate-size ones disconnected.

--DD
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timothy_nd28
post Sep 2 2016, 01:23 PM
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You can't even run a Ljet without the oil fill cap screwed tightly. The AAV has descent sized vacuum lines, no way you can leave one of those off. This system is extremely sensitive to vacuum leaks. Something else is going on with his system where he has to introduce a huge vacuum leak in order to get his car to idle. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bs.gif)
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TheCabinetmaker
post Sep 2 2016, 04:03 PM
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Lots of baiting going on these days Timothy.
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Porschef
post Sep 2 2016, 06:08 PM
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Yes, but there's been pretty much one Master here lately...

Gonna try to check voltage at the harness tomorrow, i imagine it should show 12v continuously.
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913B
post Sep 2 2016, 06:29 PM
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See my reply on post #19.

You can also see my all trials and errors by searching my name and keyword "idle"

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry2314052

Good Luck
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Mark Henry
post Sep 2 2016, 06:30 PM
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On the arr there's also a 90 degree rubber elbow to the 19mm hose. Often it feels tight, but as the engine warms up the rubber gets quite soft and will cause a leak. Same elbow is susceptible to small cracks that leak.
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