whats this part?, l-jet FI Options

[grasshopper]

this came off my 75 1.8 engine. What is it?

[ArtechnikA]

i believe that's an Aux Air Regulator (AAR).
warmup device.

[double-a]

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif)

ayup, aux airflow.

~a

[rhodyguy]

i bet that's what al blose needs too.

k

[grasshopper]

where does it mount? i forgot to take pics while disassembling the engine. This is the last thing i need to do before i can put my engine back in!! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/driving.gif)

[lapuwali]

The hose barbs need to connect to hoses between the air cleaner and the plenum. This thing has a bimetal spring and a small heater in it, which is powered by that electrical plug on the end. The idea is that it opens when cold, allowing extra air past the throttle, so you have a fast idle when the engine is cold. The combo of the electric heater and engine heat warms up the bimetal strip inside and closes the air valve, reducing the idle back to normal as the engine warms up.

You can probably see daylight through the hole when it's open. You can test it by aiming a hair dryer or heat gun at it, and it should close up so you can't see light through it, or blowing through it becomes difficult. These things tend to fail once they're this old. They were used on lots and lots of L-Jet and K-Jet systems over the years, and I haven't seen too many that still work. They usually get clogged with goo and stick.

If yours is stuck, spray lots of carb cleaner into the holes and let it soak. Tap it (TAP!) against something hard. Put it in the freezer to see if it opens, then heat it up to see if it closes. Repeat all of that a few times, and it MAY unstick.

[rhodyguy]

it mounts on the top of the case, dr side, behind the oil fill and in front of the intake runner for cyl #2.

k

[grasshopper]

QUOTE (rhodyguy @ Apr 15 2005, 07:54 AM)

it mounts on the top of the case, dr side, behind the oil fill and in front of the intake runner for cyl #2. k

thanks, now i see where i goes. anyone got a pic of it mounted?

[grasshopper]

ohhhh shit. is this supposed to happen?? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif)

[rhodyguy]

wow, what happened? the end with the electrical connection points towards the center line of the case. no camera today.

k

[grasshopper]

i was test fitting it and put one of the wires on there and when i tryed to pull it back off, the whole thing came out. is this bad? i put it back in and it seems to be back to the way it was. It still wont open but i am soking it right now in carb cleaner. I got it to force open for a second when i took it out of the freezer but it seems to have alot of crap in there. Thanks for the help.

[Mueller]

spend 15 bucks and get a Haynes manual (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)

[rhodyguy]

wow (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/chairfall.gif)

k

[grasshopper]

already have a haynes manual. and about every other book that has anything to do with 914s. I got them for christmas (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/cool.gif)

[Dave_Darling]

QUOTE (lapuwali @ Apr 15 2005, 07:40 AM)

The hose barbs need to connect to hoses between the air cleaner and the plenum.

Not quite, James. The air cleaner sees "unmetered" air. This thing needs "metered" air--air from downstream of the air flow meter. The hoses go to the "intake boot" (the rubber pipe from the AFM to the throttle body) and the plenum.

If you can get the guts back into the housing OK, you will probably be fine. It might be prudent to make the join between the plastic plug and the rest of the housing airtight (e.g., use RTV on it) but it is probably not necessary. Test it after it's together to make sure you get ~30 ohms between the two pins in the electrical connector, and no shorts to the housing.

--DD