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> The 914 conversion, 3.3 Ltr suby upgrade
Chris914n6
post Sep 16 2017, 05:01 PM
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That's not what you want. Stock fuse box works fine for chassis circuits, might need a good cleaning though.
All modern cars have a separate fuse box for drivetrain circuits. All you need is a couple distribution boxes (<$10 on ebay) and a few relays & sockets(<$5 each). I put all mine on a piece of scrap ABS to keep it neat. Other have screwed theirs straight to the sheetmetal.

Start with blueprinting the Suby engine harness, then you will know how many circuits you need to accommodate and if it's hot or ignition switch switched. There is a 911 male plug that fits into the 914 female plug at the stock engine bay fuse/relay panel that you can tap into for hot & switched & most of the gauges.

I am using a Nissan gauge cluster so I added wires for CEL and have lots of extra indicator lights so I added the fans, plus the VSS return to the ecu.

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flmont
post Sep 30 2017, 04:58 PM
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this valve is a subaru air aux valve,.what does it do , Attached Image Thanks Frank
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mgp4591
post Oct 1 2017, 05:28 AM
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The Aux Air valve is the cold start fast idle valve. Powered from an 'Ignition on wire', the other wire can go to ground. A Bi-metal strip heats up to turn it off, and the idle slows to the normal 600 rpm idle. I've heard it's similar to the old Porsche CIS valve but being water cooled myself, I have no clue as to if that's true or not.
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Chris H.
post Oct 1 2017, 09:17 AM
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You can't run without it using the stock ECU if that's what you're wondering (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) . It provides a lot more air (unmetered) at startup. Otherwise the engine is really hard to start when cold. You can move it somewhere else if it's causing issues with your intake flip. Just need to get different sized hoses.
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flmont
post Oct 1 2017, 10:32 AM
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Ahh...Thanks Chris...that's exactly my issue,..but not anymore..cool... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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flmont
post Oct 3 2017, 06:27 PM
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Being that my 3.3 has no distributor and if all my mark's are aligned on sprockets with the case and piston is top dead center,..is there such a thing as 180 Deg.( out ) or is that only for a distributed engine. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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76-914
post Oct 3 2017, 08:02 PM
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No.that piece will only attach one way between your crank and fly wheel. It's a round piece of aluminum about 3" diameter.
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flmont
post Oct 3 2017, 09:47 PM
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LOL,..what Iam asking is a timing question,if all my marks are lined up on the front sprockets and case of my Subaru 3.3 and my # 1 piston is at TDC can I still be 180 Deg. out I need to change my lower cam seals and I need to be sure things are lined up correctly,
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76-914
post Oct 4 2017, 09:15 AM
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No. Be sure to rotate the engine with the plugs removed to see if it spins freely and to be sure you aren't off on your marks. That is a "0" clearance engine and the valves will contact the pistons if your off. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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Chris H.
post Oct 4 2017, 09:55 AM
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To get to the lower cam seals you have to remove the timing belt pulleys. They only come off and go on one way. Just pick the old seals out and replace them. No need to disassemble the engine in any way. While you have the timing belt off do your main seal on the crank behind the pulley. That is the most common leak point. Mine leaked only when running which was a PITA.

The only way to your timing would be off would be if you reinstall the timing belt incorrectly. It's a non interference engine but still not good to run with the belt installed incorrectly. The factory manual shows how to get it aligned, or you can look in my build thread.
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flmont
post Oct 4 2017, 07:29 PM
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Got it,..Thank You..!!
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flmont
post Oct 16 2017, 11:03 PM
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Can I remove my 92 EGR system all together,.even if I drive in a colder winter climate ?? and have the stk ECU?? Thanks
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flmont
post Oct 21 2017, 03:33 PM
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I think this intake flip will work so far,I just need vacume lines hooked up and water lines aswell does anyone see any issue's I may still have or a better way to do this,.?? Thanks FrankAttached Image
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Chris H.
post Oct 21 2017, 11:34 PM
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I removed the hard vacuum lines and replaced them with soft lines, but if you got it to work with the hard lines go for it.

You may not get enough tension on the alternator belt unless you use the pulley to the left of the crank pulley. It has an adjuster on it. I used a Miata belt. 37.5 or something like that.

If you look at ThePaintedMan's thread you will see how we both had to slightly rotate the iris valve because it was hitting the coolant pipe. Just had to enlarge the hole a bit.
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jimkelly
post Oct 22 2017, 06:56 AM
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i thought eg33 was non interference?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/...ommon-problems/

jim
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mgp4591
post Oct 22 2017, 09:05 AM
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It's non interference from all that I've studied but I'd still not want to lose a belt at speed - I'd think you'd bend up some parts.
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flmont
post Oct 22 2017, 09:54 AM
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Yes,..I did rotate the iris valve, my next thing is should I delete my EGR system,..Iam the reverse of you,being that Iam in Tucson, I will drive in winter and park in the summer,.
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flmont
post Nov 4 2017, 06:32 PM
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Will this inlet / outlet system work ok it runs from my up front rad. through a 3/4 " steel line to a 2.25 " engine inlet and back to a 3/4 " return line.
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flmont
post Nov 23 2017, 01:51 PM
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will this fuse panel solve all my electicial requirements for the suby upgrade I still intend to use the 914 chassis panel for the usual needs..Fuel pump and starter but the other suby ECU hook ups should run thought this panel correct,..???Attached Image Thanks Frank
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76-914
post Nov 23 2017, 10:16 PM
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I'd Shit can that old relay board if I were you. You'll need one for your Alternator, 1 for your radiator fans, 1 for your ECU, 1 for your starter solenoid, 1 for your fuel pump and a few extra for later add ons. Looks like you have enough relays. What are the amp ratings on those relays? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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