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> More HP - what is the low hanging fruit?
wayner
post Sep 28 2016, 06:47 PM
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I've got a 1975 2.0 engine on carbs.

Engine is in good shape, but I might go to a 6 in the future. In the mean time where are the biggest HP bangs for the buck for my 2.0?

(Assume everything is stock other than the carbs, and going back to fuel injection is not an option)

Thanks in advance
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messix
post Sep 28 2016, 06:56 PM
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tune up and valve adjust

back date the heavy bumpers

get non '75-76 heat exchangers/exhaust.

learn to enjoy the momentum driving experience


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wayner
post Sep 28 2016, 07:49 PM
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QUOTE(messix @ Sep 28 2016, 06:56 PM) *

tune up and valve adjust

back date the heavy bumpers

get non '75-76 heat exchangers/exhaust.

learn to enjoy the momentum driving experience


Good ideas
+check
+check
+soon ( great idea)
-need more around town zip (it's great in the twisty hills)

What's next on the scale of cost to benefit?
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Coondog
post Sep 28 2016, 07:54 PM
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Take it to Orignal Customs in Grand Rapids MI........... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Dave_Darling
post Sep 28 2016, 08:01 PM
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Tangerine Racing header. With the heat exchanger option if you need window defogging.

Be sitting down when you check the prices. Skill like Chris' does not come cheap.

--DD
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SirAndy
post Sep 28 2016, 08:11 PM
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QUOTE(wayner @ Sep 28 2016, 06:49 PM) *
What's next on the scale of cost to benefit?

Weight, both yours and the car.

Given the stock HP numbers every pound of weight reduction will give you free HP ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)
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matthepcat
post Sep 28 2016, 08:39 PM
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Agree ^^

My 1.3 torque-less rotary felt a marked difference shedding the late bumpers. Both handling and exceleration. Bolt on power is probably headers and re-tuning your carbs for less back pressure.
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wayner
post Sep 28 2016, 08:42 PM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Sep 28 2016, 08:11 PM) *

QUOTE(wayner @ Sep 28 2016, 06:49 PM) *
What's next on the scale of cost to benefit?

Weight, both yours and the car.

Given the stock HP numbers every pound of weight reduction will give you free HP ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)


The car will be a fibreglass fender& bumpered GT so weight is gone ( and I'm skinny)
So, what can I do to the engine short of a fire breathing monster?

My last one was a Raby 2316, but I don't want that level of investment, I just want to wake it up a bit

Maybe take a zero off the price of a full blown RAT motor

Looking for engine ideas. What do they respond best to?

I could go cam, heads, displacement and compression but together that gets pricy. What my incremental staring point without diving into the deep end again?

The header and carb tuning suggestion is a good example.
I'll do that. I might even stop there

What's next just above that.

Just cam? Clean up heads? Is there much to be gained there alone or will it require a bunch more parts to make the cam work? Or is shaving the heads for a small boost in compression a better idea than a cam?

Other? Or is much more fruitless for the cost/ effort without doing everything?
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audio_file
post Sep 28 2016, 09:03 PM
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Ignition. At the very least pertronix, next step Mallory type ignition system or some kind of upgraded dizzy to get the best, most consistent spark you can. Won't be huge gains, but it's an easy and fairly inexpensive way to get the most out of what you have.

Cam will make a noticeable difference, as would flat top pistons (euro spec mahles) but then you're getting into splitting the case...
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Bob L.
post Sep 28 2016, 09:37 PM
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Bump it up to a 2056 along with the head work and exhaust.
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wayner
post Sep 28 2016, 09:55 PM
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Well that looks like the bases are covered. Thanks!

I have an MSD box recovered from an earlier project. I don't know why I hadn't thought of using that

I'll have to educate myself on Pistons in case I go that far.nothing crazy though, it's got to be reliable, and I don't want the expense of new jugs
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abes914
post Sep 28 2016, 10:19 PM
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How about getting lighter wheels and summer tires...
Or even lighten up your flywheel?

Those are part of my wish list
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SirAndy
post Sep 28 2016, 10:33 PM
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QUOTE(wayner @ Sep 28 2016, 07:42 PM) *
My last one was a Raby 2316, but I don't want that level of investment, I just want to wake it up a bit.

Talk to McMark from Original Customs, he has a stock 1.7L with a turbo kit that he put together.

That thing is a blast to drive ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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McMark
post Sep 29 2016, 07:25 AM
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Thanks Coondog and Andy. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Aftermarket FI and a turbo kit will wake it up nicely.
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Coondog
post Sep 29 2016, 08:07 AM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Sep 29 2016, 06:25 AM) *

Thanks Coondog and Andy. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Aftermarket FI and a turbo kit will wake it up nicely.


Fiqured I owed you.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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VaccaRabite
post Sep 29 2016, 10:12 AM
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Web 494 cam and matching lifters
96mm KB flat top pistons.
Bore out your stock jugs.
2L valves.
No head gasket.
Eurorace header.

90% of your money will be in the heads.
This was my engine before I started the EFI project. It was decidedly woke up VS a stock 2L. These days you can get way better heads done through Len's shop.

Zach
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wayner
post Sep 29 2016, 10:31 AM
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Thanks!

While aftermarket rods are nice, is there a practical power and Rpm limit that the stock rods are safe within?
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McMark
post Sep 29 2016, 10:47 AM
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Stock rods are fine as long as you're not pushing the RPM limit.
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wayner
post Sep 29 2016, 10:54 AM
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I'm starting to wonder if my plans will look like this:

Stage 1 - exhaust and ignition

Stage 2 - sell,off my 2.0'heads, get some better ones and just do the top end
( but then I'll bet I'm not that far off the cost of a full rebuild)
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McMark
post Sep 29 2016, 11:03 AM
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Yup, heads are the biggest cost. 914 2.0 heads are the best design of the stock bunch. Type4Store LE heads are the next step up, at around $2500. Add in 96mm pistons and cylinders and you're pretty much in the full rebuild ballpark.
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