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> MicroSquit Conversion, Giving this a try
McMark
post Jun 1 2017, 06:25 AM
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QUOTE(Mblizzard @ May 31 2017, 05:54 PM) *
Just wish it came with free installation. I will buy the beer McMark! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

Sure, when will you be here and what kinda beer are you bringing? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
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Mblizzard
post Jun 1 2017, 01:24 PM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Jun 1 2017, 04:25 AM) *

QUOTE(Mblizzard @ May 31 2017, 05:54 PM) *
Just wish it came with free installation. I will buy the beer McMark! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

Sure, when will you be here and what kinda beer are you bringing? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)


Love your free offer but the transportation might be a bit steep!

I essentially think I will just drop everything down and do the switch quickly. But I told my self that I would get a new AC compressor installed on the next drop $$$$$.

Have to find a York to Sanden adaptor plate. I am sure you have that as well?
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poorsche914
post Jun 1 2017, 04:13 PM
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If you would like to borrow my stock Djet distributor, let me know.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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Mblizzard
post Jun 5 2017, 08:17 AM
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Well kind of in a holding pattern.

Waiting to see if DIY Auto Tune can offer any guidance on the coil trigger method but I am not sure it will work. Not sure why not but the ECU just wont see the signal from the coil and fire the injectors. While it is likely operator error, it is disappointing that this does not work smoothly. Seems like a very simple method but I get nothing.

Attached Image

Ordered trigger wheel from McMark. Was planning on going to this at some point but the reality is that an engine drop will be required. But I am not sure how much room I will have for the sensor mounting with my current AC bracket.

Attached ImageAttached Image



Also going to have to se if I can work out the trigger wheel/ AC pulley conflict.

Attached Image

Attached Image

Little room left for the AC pulley.

Attached Image

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timothy_nd28
post Jun 6 2017, 06:10 PM
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Doug (dlee6204) makes a neat bracket that mounts the sanden compressor on top. I bought his pulley adapter for this conversion but have decided to go a different route, it's all yours if you want it.
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Dave_Darling
post Jun 6 2017, 06:31 PM
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For a York-Sanden adapter plate, the folks that make the Kuehl Air conversion for he 911 have something that works in that application. Heavy duty stuff.

--DD
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VaccaRabite
post Jun 8 2017, 07:08 AM
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My air valve came in today. What style connectors did you use to connect the wiring?

Zach
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McMark
post Jun 8 2017, 07:18 AM
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QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Jun 8 2017, 09:08 AM) *
My air valve came in today. What style connectors did you use to connect the wiring?

Zach

If it's the 'bosch' style, I have connectors and pins.
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Mblizzard
post Jun 8 2017, 09:01 AM
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QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Jun 8 2017, 05:08 AM) *

My air valve came in today. What style connectors did you use to connect the wiring?

Zach


I did not have the connector but I used just the small 2.8 mm connectors from Amazon. .
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McMark
post Jun 8 2017, 11:31 AM
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Ahh, the 2pin Bosch connector. I'll throw one in with your VR sensor, Mike. (Shipping today... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) )

Zach, I'll send one your way too, with a couple AMP35 pins.
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Mblizzard
post Jun 8 2017, 06:10 PM
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Ok so after working with DIY AutoTune it seems I may have an issue with my ECU. This could be causing my ECU to not pick up the signal from the Coil. So an engine drop may not be looming.

But I am still expecting that I will have to drop the engine just because.
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Mblizzard
post Jun 8 2017, 06:11 PM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Jun 8 2017, 09:31 AM) *

Ahh, the 2pin Bosch connector. I'll throw one in with your VR sensor, Mike. (Shipping today... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) )

Zach, I'll send one your way too, with a couple AMP35 pins.


This is why I love the World and the great vendors we have.
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Mblizzard
post Jun 9 2017, 12:04 PM
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Houston we have a problem!

After working with the guys at DIY Autotune, it seems like I may have a hardware problem on the board.

Resistor R20 should measure about 680 ohms. Actually has 681 printed on it.

Measured resistance? 0 ohms! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Of course this makes sense as R20 is in the Option +/- circuit which should give me a tach signal which I never saw out of the system once.

Attached Image

Waiting on feedback to see how to address.

Feel pretty good that I did the wiring correctly. The diode should have protected the circuit if it was reversed. But I am not a circuit guy.

Not sure this is a "user replaceable part." At least for this user.
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timothy_nd28
post Jun 9 2017, 01:43 PM
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That circuit is weak for filtering the noisy flyback high voltage from the ignition coil. You will have dropped signals at higher RPMs. I strongly recommend aborting on the OPTOIN - and OPTOIN + nonsense circuit and going with the safer trigger wheel route and don't look back.
If you insist on making this work, you should replaced that resistor with a higher wattage and either buy or make a circuit to better shape and condition that noisy incoming signal. Or, have a spare microsquirt handy because if this fails again, it will leave you stranded somewhere, but what do I know
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Mblizzard
post Jun 9 2017, 02:05 PM
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QUOTE(timothy_nd28 @ Jun 9 2017, 11:43 AM) *

That circuit is weak for filtering the noisy flyback high voltage from the ignition coil. You will have dropped signals at higher RPMs. I strongly recommend aborting on the OPTOIN - and OPTOIN + nonsense circuit and going with the safer trigger wheel route and don't look back.
If you insist on making this work, you should replaced that resistor with a higher wattage and either buy or make a circuit to better shape and condition that noisy incoming signal. Or, have a spare microsquirt handy because if this fails again, it will leave you stranded somewhere, but what do I know


Tim. I really wish you would state your opinion clearly. I find it difficult to decipher your real feelings on this issue!

McMark has the trigger wheel on the way. But I wanted to prove the concept that it I could make it work for the $600 range.

I would like to think I could add the resistor but given the scale I don't think I can do it without causing more concerns.

Attached Image


I will start the engine removal this weekend.
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Mblizzard
post Jun 14 2017, 09:34 AM
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QUOTE(timothy_nd28 @ Jun 9 2017, 11:43 AM) *

That circuit is weak for filtering the noisy flyback high voltage from the ignition coil. You will have dropped signals at higher RPMs. I strongly recommend aborting on the OPTOIN - and OPTOIN + nonsense circuit and going with the safer trigger wheel route and don't look back.
If you insist on making this work, you should replaced that resistor with a higher wattage and either buy or make a circuit to better shape and condition that noisy incoming signal. Or, have a spare microsquirt handy because if this fails again, it will leave you stranded somewhere, but what do I know


Got a reply back from DIY and they suggested a 1/2 watt resistor mounted off the board? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) They offered to complete the repair no problem. But as Tim said this still has limits. But I think I will send it in for the repair as a back up operation mode.
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Mblizzard
post Jun 14 2017, 09:51 AM
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Received the trigger wheel and goodies from McMark! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

OK so I have not completely read the instructions provided but I thought I would ask if someone had the correct settings for this in regards to teeth and correct angle?

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Should start the install this weekend.
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McMark
post Jun 14 2017, 11:18 AM
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I usually start with an Offset Angle of 290°. From your screen grab it looks like the MS2E software call that Tooth #1 Angle.

If nothing happens when you first start with the crank trigger, try swapping the Ignition Input Capture from Falling Edge to Rising Edge. With the MicroSquirt firmware and running ignition, the engine won't start with that setting backwards. So it's pretty easy to tell. You can also figure it out definitively by loading the Tooth Analyzer firmware and looking at the waveform it spits out.
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VaccaRabite
post Jun 15 2017, 07:17 AM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Jun 8 2017, 01:31 PM) *

Ahh, the 2pin Bosch connector. I'll throw one in with your VR sensor, Mike. (Shipping today... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) )

Zach, I'll send one your way too, with a couple AMP35 pins.


I had not seen this post and got your package in the mail on my birthday earlier this week. THANKS! I was totally surprised.

Zach
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McMark
post Jun 15 2017, 07:24 AM
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QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Jun 15 2017, 09:17 AM) *

QUOTE(McMark @ Jun 8 2017, 01:31 PM) *

Ahh, the 2pin Bosch connector. I'll throw one in with your VR sensor, Mike. (Shipping today... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) )

Zach, I'll send one your way too, with a couple AMP35 pins.


I had not seen this post and got your package in the mail on my birthday earlier this week. THANKS! I was totally surprised.

Zach

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/birthday3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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