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> has anyone opened up a Djet 3port pump, not the gears/ports... but the actual canister
brant
post Oct 14 2016, 01:41 PM
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I'm experimenting with rebuilding a djet fuel pump
I have one that runs but leaks

the leak (currently) is not out of the top section with the ports/oring/pump gears....

mine is leaking out the canister/bottom section
specifically right at the edge of the canister

it appears there are about 6 dimple-crimps holding the shell/cover

I have not been able to open the dimples yet
I haven't tried aggressively and can try harder

but has anyone ever successfully opened up the shell-canister of a Djet 3port pump?

tia
brant
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rudedude
post Oct 14 2016, 02:19 PM
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I've redone a number of them. Toughest is getting the right size seals. Probably have some left if you need. Haven't had any issues opening the dimples, and have used them to close it again. Seem to remember some tricky wiring inside maybe having to unsolder and resolder as part of the process. Can't remember as much as I used to.
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brant
post Oct 14 2016, 02:25 PM
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QUOTE(rudedude @ Oct 14 2016, 02:19 PM) *

I've redone a number of them. Toughest is getting the right size seals. Probably have some left if you need. Haven't had any issues opening the dimples, and have used them to close it again. Seem to remember some tricky wiring inside maybe having to unsolder and resolder as part of the process. Can't remember as much as I used to.


This is great info
Did you use any special tool on the dimples?
I would love to buy a seal from you
Brant
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post Oct 14 2016, 04:40 PM
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Pliers. Just squeeze until the dimples are flattened a bit then lift the pump housing out. Just a big O-ring seal immediately below the crimps, IIRC. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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rudedude
post Oct 14 2016, 04:54 PM
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When you open it and measure the seals let me know and i'll send them. I went trial and error with 25 seal packages and can't remember which i ended up using so i have plenty
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Mikey914
post Oct 14 2016, 06:34 PM
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I was looking at this the other day. I did open it up.
The seal at the top should be replaced as it's a no brainer. 4 screws, so why not?

The one at the body was a little more interesting. Goes around the edge to seal it. Seems pretty simple.

What perplexed me was the shaft running through the pump block. There didn't seem to be a rotary seal, but it did have a very tight tollerence.

If this can be left alone I'd advise doing so.

So my recommendation crack it open just far enough to replace the seal at the body. Literally 1/8" or so. Swap the gasket and re seat the top into the housing. Put into a bench vice to push the halves together. Should be able to punch the tabs back down while under some pressure holding them together (remember you have a new seal).

DO BE CAREFUL when you unbend the tabs not to damage. One of mine split the metal, so that's where I'm stuck.


If you do find the correct ones (I haven't had time to source yet), let us know and I'll throw them in the misc. parts section so they can be picked up cheaply for anyone else that may need them.
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brant
post Oct 15 2016, 07:49 AM
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Wow. Great.
I will be back in town on Sunday and take a more aggressive attempt on those tabs

Do the o'rings need to be neoprene? To deal with gasolene?
Thanks guys!
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Mikey914
post Oct 15 2016, 10:58 AM
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I'm assuming Neoprene. I can do some up in Viton, but more expensive.
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McMark
post Oct 15 2016, 04:20 PM
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I have all those seals. I looked into resealing them. PM me your address and I'll get a couple sets coming your way.

The problem isn't just opening the crimps, it's putting them back. All without getting the body out of round. I found that both opening the crimps and trying to redo them both tended to push the body out of round. And then there's the pressure relief system/port. Those have additional o-rings and seals that I don't have and dealing with that system is just as much of a PITA.

All in all it's such a touchy process, and there's such a low probability of success that I'll probably never try again. Especially considering the benefits of moving the pump up front. I love everything original, but this is a battle I decided to walk away from.

It would be great if someone could do it, so I'm happy to send out the seals and add any perspective I can from my experience.
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sixnotfour
post Oct 16 2016, 11:53 AM
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the ironic thing is he has a late 2 port pump in hand ,, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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brant
post Oct 17 2016, 12:09 PM
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QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Oct 16 2016, 11:53 AM) *

the ironic thing is he has a late 2 port pump in hand ,, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)



Oh yes...
thanks to Jeff, the car is running

this has become a (waste of time?) experiment to learn about the workings of the 3 port.... and luckily for me, I can put it on the shelf and forget about this experiment when I get busy...

but I'm having fun with this "tinkering" project


Mark,
I'm going to pm you
I'm going to force this pump apart... even If I distort the housing or ruin it, I will still learn something.
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McMark
post Oct 17 2016, 12:13 PM
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Yeah, you really can't break it any more. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Figure it out and I'll send you 5-10 pumps that leak. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
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brant
post Dec 19 2016, 03:06 PM
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Thread update:

thanks to Mark
I have a rebuilt 3port fuel pump
it took way too much time
can't see that its worth it
but it was a fun experiment

without the crimping machine the factory used, it will never look original and unmolested.

Jeff did me a HUGE favor and sold me a modern 2 port pump
much easier than going through the rebuild process
I have a spare anyways...
and it no longer leaks, its still 40 years old though...

brant
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sixnotfour
post Dec 19 2016, 04:36 PM
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Glad your updated hahaha
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Aerostatwv
post Dec 24 2016, 02:38 PM
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Does anyone have the flow specs on the factory pump? I'm guessing it's a continuous flow/pressure pump? Thanks!
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