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> BUILD-OFF CHALLENGE: Tygaboy's '75 LS3, It seemed a good idea at the time...
914_7T3
post Apr 28 2018, 04:25 PM
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Please forgive me, I'm new to all of this!
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Wowza, Mad Skills!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
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tygaboy
post Apr 28 2018, 04:26 PM
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Did I say "fiddly"? Man, this fire wall has turned into a really big time suck. Don't get me wrong, I like doing it but geez, this has been day after day after day...

So here it comes around the corner of the lower opening area.
I'm using that small square tube to set the plane for that section of the panel.

Oh, and again, it would have helped if I'd paid attention in geometry class:

When you are joining pieces that have a bead and the angle of the panel relative to the other one, isn't the same, the bead needs to be in a slightly different location (higher or lower) in order to line up with the bead on the other panel(s).

So, while each side piece can be cut from the same initial part that had been bent and had the bead added, each of the "middle" pieces required their own angle and bead location... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

Did I say "fiddly"?


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tygaboy
post Apr 28 2018, 04:29 PM
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The frame is in plane but mostly it's a pain... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)


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tygaboy
post Apr 28 2018, 04:31 PM
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All the pieces are fabbed! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)

Some final trimming to tighten up the fit in a couple places and then trimming of the lip around all the openings and it's weld it up time!

Major milestone.


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Dion
post Apr 28 2018, 04:43 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) just...Mega!!!!!

Man is that looking sweet. I have firewall envy. Hehehehe
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Krieger
post Apr 28 2018, 06:09 PM
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That looks really nice Chris! Good job!
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tygaboy
post Apr 29 2018, 01:14 PM
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Thanks for the compliments. It's nice to hear encouraging words...

Now, let's make sure the seat still fits/clears. Yep, all set. Cozy with clearance!


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tygaboy
post Apr 29 2018, 01:22 PM
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One of the upcoming sub-projects that I need to get figured out is where/how to fit the A/C unit. I don't like the traditional under dash units so I've rented a few different mock up units to see what might work. This one, from Old Air, seems to be the most suitable.

My initial plan is to section out above the passenger foot well and raise the unit up as high as I can. It should provide enough foot room while not hanging down so far as to be really obvious.

According to my "pre-cise calculations". I can raise it about 5 inches from where it sits in the pic. Farther if I can avoid fouling the wiper mechanism. Of course, a mono-wiper would make that a non-issue... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
I'll also lose the glove box.

And no cutting will happen until I get more comfortable with overall fitment, hose and vent tube routing, etc.

But I need to get after this pretty soon.


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tygaboy
post Apr 29 2018, 01:27 PM
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And with the fire wall fab mostly done, I started on Version 3 of how to close off the lower sections. More fiddly fab as the lower wall isn't vertical. You may recall that while the wall isn't, the seat belt retractors require vertical mounting.
So that means these closure pieces have to have a wedge cut out of them to accommodate that seat belt retractor mounting tube.

It's true what they say: Nothing is easy.

Also playing around with beading design.

I may end up mounting these pieces on the inside of the lower section. Still not sure about that.


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bbrock
post Apr 29 2018, 02:35 PM
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Chris, your level of engineering, detail, and execution continues to amaze me. Keep it coming!
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Andyrew
post Apr 29 2018, 03:12 PM
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I don't think there is enough room for that ac unit. I think the only way to fit it is to replace the fresh air box with an account unit and run hoses from there. Cut the front upper firewall out to make room for the unit and then box it in when done. That's my goal whenever I get back into the project. They make a universal unit that has 4 outlets and does ac and heat. No defrost or vents to open and close but that could be done with flapper boxes and solenoids.


My 2c.
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tygaboy
post Apr 29 2018, 03:27 PM
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QUOTE(Andyrew @ Apr 29 2018, 02:12 PM) *

I don't think there is enough room for that ac unit. I think the only way to fit it is to replace the fresh air box with an account unit and run hoses from there. Cut the front upper firewall out to make room for the unit and then box it in when done. That's my goal whenever I get back into the project. They make a universal unit that has 4 outlets and does ac and heat. No defrost or vents to open and close but that could be done with flapper boxes and solenoids.


My 2c.

Andrew - I may be misunderstanding something but this is an A/C, heat, defrost unit so the stock fresh air box and all the venting, etc. gets eliminated. We can talk in more detail when you're here June 2 for the fab day. I'm interested in hearing your opinion once you've seen this up close.
Talk soon.
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Cracker
post Apr 29 2018, 07:42 PM
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Chris: Consider moving the fuel tank forward a hair, if necessary. Easy space to be had there! This would be minor fab with your skill and it would continue the theme of a "one off" teener. Besides, I like air conditioning! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

T
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Andyrew
post Apr 29 2018, 09:04 PM
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QUOTE(tygaboy @ Apr 29 2018, 02:27 PM) *

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Apr 29 2018, 02:12 PM) *

I don't think there is enough room for that ac unit. I think the only way to fit it is to replace the fresh air box with an account unit and run hoses from there. Cut the front upper firewall out to make room for the unit and then box it in when done. That's my goal whenever I get back into the project. They make a universal unit that has 4 outlets and does ac and heat. No defrost or vents to open and close but that could be done with flapper boxes and solenoids.


My 2c.

Andrew - I may be misunderstanding something but this is an A/C, heat, defrost unit so the stock fresh air box and all the venting, etc. gets eliminated. We can talk in more detail when you're here June 2 for the fab day. I'm interested in hearing your opinion once you've seen this up close.
Talk soon.


I'm familiar with the unit. I considered it myself but decided it was simply to bulky to be hidden by any normal size dash without giving up legroom. I'll see if I can remember to bring my ac unit for comparison. I think you'll be surprised by the compact size.
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Andyrew
post Apr 29 2018, 09:05 PM
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QUOTE(Cracker @ Apr 29 2018, 06:42 PM) *

Chris; Consider moving the fuel tank forward a hair, if necessary. Easy space to be had there! This would be minor fab with your skill and it would continue the theme of a "one off" teener. Besides, I like air conditioning! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

T



For weight distribution or more room in the cabin?
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Cracker
post Apr 29 2018, 09:10 PM
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I just like being cooool! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

T

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Apr 29 2018, 11:05 PM) *

For weight distribution or more room in the cabin?

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tygaboy
post Apr 30 2018, 08:05 AM
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QUOTE(Cracker @ Apr 29 2018, 08:10 PM) *

I just like being cooool! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

T

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Apr 29 2018, 11:05 PM) *

For weight distribution or more room in the cabin?



Oh, come on, Tony. We all know you're too cool already... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
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ChrisFoley
post May 2 2018, 09:11 AM
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I'm putting up a few pictures here to help you think ahead to bodywork.
This is a widebody I did almost 20 years ago. The nose is one piece of aluminum which I shaped. I have bucks (somewhere) for the 5" wide rear flares.

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This is the carbon fiber 914 nose made by Prototype Composites I use on my race car and on a couple others. The aluminum center panel is a mod I needed for my car's oil cooler outlet hidden behind the airdam. The CF piece comes solid, and most people open it up for a GT cooler style installation.

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tygaboy
post May 2 2018, 10:17 AM
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Thanks Mr. Foley!
I'm still at the head-scratching stage and in looking at the DP2 (it's the car pictured here), it's using a pretty shallow angle and what seems to be a relatively small scoop to successfully cool an LS3.

Granted, there's no sheet metal behind the DP2 rads but I figure I could loose most of the inner wheel house sheet (and if needed, add some louvers to the top of the flares) to get the needed air flow.

In the perfect world, I'm wondering if I could widen my steel GT flares enough to make this work..

As always, "We shall see..."


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ChrisFoley
post May 2 2018, 10:50 AM
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Did you say widen a set of GT flares? I did a set 2 years ago.

Welded on normal, then cut off on a strategically placed line.
Reshaped to set the opening at the same height. This was the hard part. It took a lot of work to "adjust" the part which remained on the car.
Then add the filler strip in 3 pieces for convenience.
Grind and hammer smooth.

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