BUILD-OFF CHALLENGE: Tygaboy's '75 LS3, It seemed a good idea at the time... Options

[tygaboy]

Looks like once the cover is one piece, you'll need to be able to flex at least one side a little to clear the recess for removal. What's the plan there?

Yep, I've been looking at that. I think maybe a little, is all. It'll only be 18 ga material (though I may remake the cover in AL) so a bit of flex is likely anyway.
I was waiting for someone to ask about how it'll seal. I sourced a rubber U-channel that should work great. I used it to wrap the AL panels I made for that Lotus 7. I plan to apply this to the inner edge of the dog house and the cover should seal against it. Fingers crossed!

[bbrock]

Looks like once the cover is one piece, you'll need to be able to flex at least one side a little to clear the recess for removal. What's the plan there?

Yep, I've been looking at that. I think maybe a little, is all. It'll only be 18 ga material (though I may remake the cover in AL) so a bit of flex is likely anyway.

I was more thinking about if you would need an indent or something to get a finger grip to remove it. The rubber U-channel might kill two birds by elevating the edge of the cover off the dog house just enough to get a finger tip under. It's looking great!

[tygaboy]

I spent time today working on the lower front corners of the outer panels.
The goal is to hammer them to shape and most importantly, in alignment with the angle of the corner at the top. Fun! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

I thought a good approach would be to cut a piece of appropriate radius tube and use is as an alignment/hammer form. It seemed that if I hold it in place at the top, it'll dictate where and how much I should wrap the corner at the bottom.

Here's the tube being fit as I'm trying to see if this will work.

[tygaboy]

Then, after marking where the panel contacted the tube (that's where the wrap would need to start), I removed the tube and clamped it into the vice, held the panel as close to aligned as I could and started hammering the corner around.

[tygaboy]

Test fit, tweak, test fit, tweak some more... you know the drill.
Starting to get there.

[tygaboy]

All these pieces have to come together at the same time while maintaining the various angels and fitment in the earlier posts. So next I needed to work in the lower front panel. Lots of checking, clamping, tweaking, checking.
I got this far on the driver side lower and called it a day.
Another few hours to get all the final fits tuned and I should be able to start tacking things!

[tygaboy]

Final fitting... Let's weld this thing.

[tygaboy]

I still have a bit of hammer and dolly work and bits of some of the seams to weld but I couldn't resist posting this progress. I'm REALLY happy with how it's looking.

[Andyrew]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)

[Cracker]

That is quite the access panel you have there...!

T

[tygaboy]

Enough progress on welding that I decided I would move to fabrication of the cover.
I figured I better put the seat in, just to be sure everything still fits!

It does! So then I worked up a CAD drawing and cut the center panel blank.

I clamped this (and both side panels) to the dog house and used the panel holes to
locate the drilling spots. At this point, the fasteners are temporary. I'll weld nuts on the back side of each hole for the fasteners. And they'll be button heads. I just happened to have these laying around.

[tygaboy]

Then I marked and rough trimmed the side panels.
The next step is to start hammering the edges around to meet the center panel and match the radius of the rest of the dog house. As always, I'm betting you get the idea of what this will look like.

Once the corners are ready, the three pieces will be welded and metal finished.

I'll likely stamp some reinforcing pattern into the sides and front. I'm still noodling on the design for that. Though I may make another cover from aluminum. Or use this as a mold and make one from carbon fiber/kevlar.

And I'm sure there will be some bondo involved on various parts of the firewall, just to get it to look super nice.

The plan is to paint it as well as stitch up a removable cover of some sort. Quilted diamond pattern? Straight ribs? Something else? So many decisions.

[Andyrew]

Damn those are nice seats...

I think diamond pattern will phase out.

You could match OEM with a big bubble and do piping around it like your seats maybe one horizontal beltline about an inch tall like your seats?


One thing us custom people need to consider is future proofing the design so it lasts more than 5-10 years without looking rediculous

Singer is where I'm starting to take design cues from as it's throwback timeless. They do some modern designs I don't think will stand the test of time but in general it's a really good example of what probably will stand up in 20 years.

[bbrock]

Damn that's nice. I think even Chris Baker will be happy with that. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

[Andyrew]

Damn that's nice. I think even Chris Baker will be happy with that. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

[914forme]

"And I'm sure there will be some bondo involved on various parts of the firewall, just to get it to look super nice. "

JB Weld is you friend here, it was originally designed to smooth aircraft skin. One of the few places I use the stuff.

Mad skills on display

[tygaboy]

"And I'm sure there will be some bondo involved on various parts of the firewall, just to get it to look super nice. "

JB Weld is you friend here, it was originally designed to smooth aircraft skin. One of the few places I use the stuff.

Mad skills on display

@914forme Stephen - I've never worked w/JB Weld but what I'm looking for is to have a smooth transition in a few areas, like these corners.
You're saying I can build up a bit in these spots and then, what? Does JB weld file/sand to a paint-able finish?
I was looking at bronze welding and filing... JB Weld sounds like it might be simpler.

[914forme]

Yes it should do that just fine, it can be shaped sanded , filed, if hit that the right set time, you can even shape it like putty, but that is a minimum work time in that state. just hit the area behind the repair with a bit of grit so it has a bite. And go to town. JB Weld is not good after heating so this is a last step thing, not a still welding kind of thing. I have used it in the past to make great repairs in 1970s body work on my Ghia coupe.

Gas welding with bronze fill achieves the same thing, or go old school and use lead. JBWeld is just easier to deal with in the long run. No tinning, no flame, no tallow, etc....

[tygaboy]

Damn that's nice. I think even Chris Baker will be happy with that. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

Ha, @bbrock ! Like you're one to talk... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
But yes, he seems to be happy w/it. Well, for today, at least! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

This design works, functionally, in terms of the needed clearance and systems access.

It is however, forcing me to reconsider the existing console. As I've been getting more familiar with working with sheet metal, I think I can make a new console that better integrates with the look of the fire wall.

So I've purchased the needed materials and will be starting that whole deal over again. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)

[jd74914]

I was looking at bronze welding and filing... JB Weld sounds like it might be simpler.

That looks really nice Chris!

I've done some filling like that by TIG brazing with SIL BRZ rod. Worked pretty well. The heat input is quite a bit less than regular similar metal TIG so warpage was a bit better.