BUILD-OFF CHALLENGE: Tygaboy's '75 LS3, It seemed a good idea at the time... Options

[sixnotfour]

check out Ring Brothers SEMA Camaro..... lots of similar open pattern panels/stiffeners (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[tygaboy]

Carbon, oh heck yeah, depending on price I would be interested in ..... Oh wait not on the 914-6 build, it was meant to be period correct parts build..... Oh do I love good Carbon

Carbon Fiber Mini-Lights he can call them Ubber-lites. Wonder if the design is still protected, as I prefer the originals over all the copies with their odd spoke with a lug hole in them. That would be one place I would deviate on, Reduce unsprung weight is always a goal for me.

Cool facility looks like he has the right stuff, if he has a large 3D Scanner, then you are golden, and should be able to calculate the shrink rate, and build a great part. Since he is building wheels I think he has composite down to a bit of a science. That is unless he is doing these for wall clocks. In which case still very cool.

@914forme Stephen. Not wall clocks. He stress tested his wheels, made improvements and ultimately ran them on his 750hp Mustang. Beat the crap out of them, heat warped rotors, things like that, and had no issues with the wheels.

I've played with composites enough that I'm of the opinion that there's no reason we should have to struggle with crap fit and tons of prep, just to get light weight parts on our cars.

After seeing the level of quality available here (skill, experience, plus proper tools and equipment), I'm entertaining the possibility of partnering with him to make bumpers, hoods and trunk lids that are "ready to run", just bolt on and go. Or paint.
I'll post updates as things happen - or don't.

[sb914]

Quote : tygaboy After seeing the level of quality available here (skill, experience, plus proper tools and equipment), I'm entertaining the possibility of partnering with him to make bumpers, hoods and trunk lids that are "ready to run", just bolt on and go. Or paint.
I'll post updates as things happen - or don't.
[/quote]
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif) That would be incredible! Sign me up. First in line .

[Andyrew]

[quote name='sb914' date='Nov 19 2019, 06:53 AM' post='2763282']
Quote : tygaboy After seeing the level of quality available here (skill, experience, plus proper tools and equipment), I'm entertaining the possibility of partnering with him to make bumpers, hoods and trunk lids that are "ready to run", just bolt on and go. Or paint.
I'll post updates as things happen - or don't.
[/quote]
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif) That would be incredible! Sign me up. First in line .
[/quote]
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

[tygaboy]

Arrrg. The initial tacking in was done and I thought I had things all set... But no.

I was doing some final verification, I noticed a gap where the pick up points will be welded to the angled part of the longs.

The arrow points at where I ended up with a gap. Note this is pre-tacking and shows how things should look.

The gap was maybe 1/16 - 3/32". After all this work, I wasn't going to accept that. So I ended up cutting the tacks, pulling everything out and starting over.

Maybe the 4th time is the charm?

NOTE to others who may be doing this mod:
Once you get the pick ups positioned fore and aft, and have determined the width of the gap you'll have between the two main parts of the fixture, consider clamping a strap to both sides of the fixture to prevent it from opening up.

Or at the very least, pay more attention than I did and triple check the position ahead of tacking!

[tygaboy]

OK, so I leveled the car again. And this time, I checked level across two of the front suspension attachment points.

Hooray, my car isn't twisted...

[tygaboy]

I won't bore you with a repeat of all the steps.
Follow the Tangerine instructions, check for square, check for level, tack in.
Fit the arms, snug things up, set to ride height.

Wheel-in-flare fitment. CHECK!

[tygaboy]

Check for camber. No shims.

I'm within about 1/4 degree side to side.

Following in Mr. Hail's footsteps, I plan to follow a weld sequence of "outside top, inside bottom" first so any distortion that happens will add additional negative camber.

On to checking that I can achieve proper toe. Assuming so, weld all this in then add the sheet metal plating.

[tygaboy]

My first attempt at checking toe. I ran out of jack stands so just used some scrap perforated material to form a set of parallel string lines around the car. Not too sexy but it works.

With the outer mount moved all the way back, I can just get a bit of toe out so I'm calling the pick up points "in the correct (enough) position"!

Time to final weld all the pieces.

[trojanhorsepower]

OK, so I leveled the car again. And this time, I checked level across two of the front suspension attachment points.

Hooray, my car isn't twisted...

"Make the noise"!

[914forme]

Scott PORSTI Fame made a set of string holders for his car, pretty slick, well with in your talents.

Enjoy Chris

[bbrock]

Scott PORSTI Fame made a set of string holders for his car, pretty slick, well with in your talents.

Enjoy Chris

There's another version here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=1808793

[914forme]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) I don't see Chris doing PVC.

I do see him, building the entire thing out of Aluminum using A CNC laser cutter, then TIG welding the brackets. Then making it all fit in a USPS flat rate box and selling the kits all over the world to people who want the best.


The nice thing about PVC it is simple, the bad thing is it bends. I know it is all reference, and as long as it is square and equal off center you are good. What I don't like is the lack of artistry it takes to make them. Ingenuity maybe but no artistry.

Chris I already have this drawn up in my head, hard anodized please with mill cut reliefs and radiuses edges.

You can read my mind right (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

[Andyrew]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) I don't see Chris doing PVC.

I do see him, building the entire thing out of Aluminum using A CNC laser cutter, then TIG welding the brackets. Then making it all fit in a USPS flat rate box and selling the kits all over the world to people who want the best.


The nice thing about PVC it is simple, the bad thing is it bends. I know it is all reference, and as long as it is square and equal off center you are good. What I don't like is the lack of artistry it takes to make them. Ingenuity maybe but no artistry.

Chris I already have this drawn up in my head, hard anodized please with mill cut reliefs and radiuses edges.

You can read my mind right (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

You forgot that he would go through 4 design trials and still wouldn't be happy with it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[bbrock]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) I don't see Chris doing PVC.

I do see him, building the entire thing out of Aluminum using A CNC laser cutter, then TIG welding the brackets. Then making it all fit in a USPS flat rate box and selling the kits all over the world to people who want the best.


The nice thing about PVC it is simple, the bad thing is it bends. I know it is all reference, and as long as it is square and equal off center you are good. What I don't like is the lack of artistry it takes to make them. Ingenuity maybe but no artistry.

Chris I already have this drawn up in my head, hard anodized please with mill cut reliefs and radiuses edges.

You can read my mind right (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

Thought the same thing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) However, I should point out that the design I linked uses steel conduit for the bars. He just used PVC fittings to hold stuff together. Chris can always sub titanium and carbon fiber as need. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[tygaboy]

I called my Mom and (sniff), told her the other boys were (sniff, sniff) picking on me... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

[Rand]

No sniffing in the garge. You are rocking this.

[tygaboy]

Back on post #2026, I speculated that I'd make a thinner "large stainless washer" to help with outboard tire clearance. I decided I would go ahead with that.

Here's a comparo. Note the one I made is fresh off the plasma table and will be dressed and deburred, but you get the idea. Thinner means the trailing arm moves inboard by the difference.

Frankly, when I look at the Elephant install instructions, I wonder why I need this at all. I have a call in to Elephant to ask if I can just eliminate it altogether. When you see how this contraption goes together, you see there's a shoulder on the pivot shaft that ends up bolted hard against the washer anyway.

Why can't I just let it go hard up against the inner ear of the new suspension console? It's not a bearing surface...

Yes, I know there'a an overall width dimension but if I make it up on the other side, why wouldn't that be OK?

[TargaToy]

OK, so I leveled the car again. And this time, I checked level across two of the front suspension attachment points.

Hooray, my car isn't twisted...

"Make the noise"!

You beat me to it!!!

[tygaboy]

Triple double checking all the measurements. In order to do that, and because I'm running late Carrera hub-centric hubs, I have to install the axles in order to ensure there's no play in the position of the wheel.

To do all this work, you have to climb in and out from under the car 3486 times. How may times did I smack my head on the inner CV joints? I don't know because I have amnesia from multiple blunt force head traumas... (literally = (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) )