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> BUILD-OFF CHALLENGE: Tygaboy's '75 LS3, It seemed a good idea at the time...
tygaboy
post Dec 26 2021, 06:46 PM
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Given all the "non-914" stuff I'm up to with this build, I'm sure some of you think I'm a bit twisted. Well so is this next version of the intake! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) Thanks, I'm here all week...

Just playing with the untrimmed tubing components and it's only on the one side but this shows the basic idea: get the tubes pointed forward and connected to twin air boxes, one on each side, just outboard of the heads. Note that rubber connector is just helping position things and those tubes will likely get welded - pending proof I can get the final part in/out of the car! But so far, it looks like it'll work.

Quite a ways to go still, clearly. Plus, this intake means I'll need to build a different exhaust that just runs down and back. But this set up gets me all sorts of room to build a removable trunk floor/sealed carrier box so if I really wanted, I could transport a long weekend's worth of luggage.


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AZBanks
post Dec 26 2021, 07:57 PM
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You wouldn't have these issues with ITB's.


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Cracker
post Dec 26 2021, 09:07 PM
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He's heard this before... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

Cracker

QUOTE(AZBanks @ Dec 26 2021, 08:57 PM) *

You wouldn't have these issues with ITB's.


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djway
post Dec 26 2021, 10:57 PM
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Sweet
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tygaboy
post Jan 4 2022, 08:28 PM
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More not even remotely 914 stuff! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
The PMU (power management unit) and wireless receiver harnesses are ready to go in the car.
I opted to go with the PMU vendor's flying lead harness so most of that wiring will be trimmed away as it's only about 4' from the PMU to the connection point for all but a few of them.


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dakotaewing
post Jan 4 2022, 09:16 PM
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... and the exhaust is off...
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tygaboy
post Jan 5 2022, 06:49 PM
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And so it begins... again. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

I will say, I'm getting pretty comfortable with all things wiring. Still lots to learn but I'm at the point where I really enjoy doing this sort of work. It appeals to my sense of order - at least trying to get it in some sort of order!


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cassmcentee
post Jan 5 2022, 07:49 PM
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I see the most important tool of the day besides wire strippers...
The "Red Taped Chest Rest" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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tygaboy
post Jan 14 2022, 06:40 PM
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A few of you asked that I post details about the wiring work. OK, here's some fun stuff:
I want to add reliability to everything - and in the case of wiring, that means sealing every connection that I can. Today was my first go at potting a factory sensor.
This is the transmission reverse light sensor from the Boxster 6-speed. Normally, it has a rather standard plug-in connector. I opted to make it a fully sealed sensor with a short pig tail that terminates with a Deutsch DT series connector.

First, tin a couple suitable wires - these are 20 AWG conductors. Color doesn't matter as they'll be fully sheathed in Raychem DR25 heat shrink. Plus, this sensor is just an "on/off" switch so it doesn't matter which terminal gets power. When that sort of thing matters, I'll be paying attention and testing each connection before pinning the connector...

Anyway. Next, tin the terminals in the sensor then solder the tinned end of the wires to a terminal. Note I'd folded the stripped wire back on itself before soldering so a bit of the insulated portion of the wire is already down in the body of the sensor. Even still, once the wires are soldered, you push a bit more of the wire into the sensor body to provide a bit more strain relief.

Here's that work all done.


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tygaboy
post Jan 14 2022, 06:43 PM
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Next, I slipped the heat shrink over the wires and set up a support contraption to keep the wire oriented as the potting epoxy cures.
This little portable, rubber jawed vice is just the ticket!


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tygaboy
post Jan 14 2022, 06:46 PM
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Then, it's potting time! I'm using a 3M product as it's readily available and I've had such good experiences with their other products.

That first pic: I found it's easier to pump the potting epoxy (gently!) into the syringe vs dispensing it onto a surface and using the syringe to suck it up.


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tygaboy
post Jan 14 2022, 06:48 PM
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Use the syringe and work around in all the cavities to carefully fill the sensor body with epoxy. Take your time and be sure to avoid creating any air pockets.


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tygaboy
post Jan 14 2022, 06:49 PM
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Once the sensor body is filled, gently slide the heat shrink down into the epoxy.


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tygaboy
post Jan 14 2022, 06:50 PM
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Be sure everything is aligned and secure!

Once the potting compound is cured, I'll fully shrink the heat shrink then add a heat shrink boot that goes over the plastic part of the sensor and seals to it and the heat shrink you see here. That makes for one seriously reliable sensor!


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tygaboy
post Jan 14 2022, 06:51 PM
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I plan to do the same thing with my tail light housings. Remember, I have no trunk floor and those tail light wires are exposed to whatever the tires may toss up at them.
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tygaboy
post Jan 15 2022, 03:07 PM
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Done! Fully booted at the sensor and ready to go back in. On to the rest of the rear lighting harness.

Not that I'm fast at anything but making the mods to this sensor was probably a couple hours. And I'm using the "inexpensive" Deutsch DT series connectors. The two pin connector kit I used here is about $7. A 6-pin DT is about $15. A 5-pin Deutsch AutoSport connector kit is ~$140. Yes, like 10x the cost. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

So when you hear that costs for a full-on motorsports harnesses can get well past $20K, you'll know why!


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willieg
post Jan 15 2022, 04:32 PM
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Chris
About a year and a half ago, you recommended Deutsch connectors to me. And then I rewired a lot of my 914 using Deutsch connectors. Initially I was concerned about their durability but after many connects and disconnects, they have held up very well. Thanks for the tip.
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Cracker
post Jan 15 2022, 05:54 PM
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I know... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I do recall a conversation regarding wiring in which you said, "I don't want motorsports level wiring in the car..." Just say'n... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

Cracker

QUOTE(tygaboy @ Jan 15 2022, 04:07 PM) *

So when you hear that costs for a full-on motorsports harnesses can get well past $20K, you'll know why!
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Andyrew
post Jan 15 2022, 09:02 PM
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Well that’s a far better method than my hot glue gun option!

Very nice work as usual Chris!
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tygaboy
post Jan 17 2022, 07:43 PM
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Back to chassis harness wiring. I'm replacing all the screw terminal blocks with Deutsch connectors. Here's the stock 914 ignition switch connector sheathed in DR25, sealed at the connector with a short section of adhesive lined heat shrink. This is a product called Raychem ATUM, for those who might be interested.
This particular connector is a DTP series - the P standing for "power". These have far larger terminals that can each handle 25 amps.


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