BUILD-OFF CHALLENGE: Tygaboy's '75 LS3, It seemed a good idea at the time... Options

[Cairo94507]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[tygaboy]

Proving the old adage "it's not what you know, it's who...", I posted a reply on a thread from some guy asking about engine swaps, invited him to come to the Red Barn to check out the madness... and he did! Andrew is his name and, as it turns out, 3d printing is at least part of his game.
We were looking at the LS car and how I needed trim pieces for the door bar verticals. I sorta kinda described roughly what I was looking to do...
Fast forward to this past week and Andrew texts me a pic with a "how about this?"

Are you KIDDING ME? They're awesome!

So, here's Andrew making the handoff and the trim rings in the car. WAAAAAY big improvement over the razor cut rubber grommets there at the front, eh? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Big thanks to Andrew! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

[cassmcentee]

The best Forum ever!

[East coaster]

That’s awesome, they look great!

[Cairo94507]

That does look bitchin; we have a great community! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[TheRuttmeister]

Nice!

If anyone wants to print their own (I printed them from glass fiber PETG, mostly because the PET is very strong and the glass gives it a nice matte finish) you can download the STL here:

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-pri...s-collar-342582

I also uploaded the Fusion360 file if anyone wants to tweak it for a different size tube.

Its sized for M3x14 socket cap screws and nylock nuts. Its also actually 1 part that lines up as a pair.
Regular PETG would work as well, but IMHO doesn't look as nice.

If you don't have a 3D printer (why not?) upload the STL to somewhere like Fictiv and they will print it for you. I recommend MJF PA12, which should get you parts at about $5 each, or $10 for a pair (I got that price for x12). The PA12 will be around the same strength and has the same nice matte black finish.

Or find a friend and ply them with beer or something.

[TheRuttmeister]

So if you flipped the shinny side you could do the layup on the abs and have an air gap designed in and still look form fitting.

This, very much this.

I'd also suggest trying a vacuum bag to try and get the ABS to wrap really really tight (like free-form vacuum forming). And then you can also leave it to cool with the vacuum held so you don't get as much springback.

[tygaboy]

If you're at all interested in some add'l wiring process detail, you may like this episode. And it may not seem like much but finally working out how to make the wipers work the way I wanted, all from one button on the wireless, was a major mental milestone for me. Enjoy!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-G_mfxSDCfI

[Cairo94507]

Totally enjoyed that; the level of craftsmanship and attention to detail is up in the stratosphere. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[fiacra]

"It's just what the cool kids do." (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) Loved that! Just confirmed how uncool I actually am as I looked at my drawer full of butt connectors and fabric electrical tape.

[tygaboy]

Here's the latest. It's geeky and nerdy and probably not interesting to most.
But it's part of the build and I want to document as much as I can so once the car is all done and goes up for sale, interested parties can learn all they want about the details.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q9Y6QLRDIZk

[Chris H.]

I used that exact heater core in mine. Perfect size for it and it does produce decent heat. What I did NOT do was plumb a bypass so that when it's 100 degrees outside the coolant just loops around and back to the water pump without going through the core. Initially I put a single valve from a Rabbit to stop the flow but it still got a little warm up there. Planning to fix that this spring.

[East coaster]

Nice work on the heater, looking forward to next segment(s). I used the cable operated version of that valve and was a little worried about the length of the cable run from dash to valve, but it seems to be working well so far.

[Krieger]

Very nice and as usual thought out very well!

[tygaboy]

Nice work on the heater, looking forward to next segment(s). I used the cable operated version of that valve and was a little worried about the length of the cable run from dash to valve, but it seems to be working well so far.

@East coaster After seeing your use of that valve, I started looking for the same one and stumbled on this servo-controlled version. I have no idea where the heater core will end up so a wired version is perfect for my TBD solution. Thanks for paving the way!

[tygaboy]

I used that exact heater core in mine. Perfect size for it and it does produce decent heat. What I did NOT do was plumb a bypass so that when it's 100 degrees outside the coolant just loops around and back to the water pump without going through the core. Initially I put a single valve from a Rabbit to stop the flow but it still got a little warm up there. Planning to fix that this spring.

@"Chris H." Thanks for letting me know it works! I don't need much heat but it's good to hear it should do the job.

[tygaboy]

delete

[technicalninja]

Just watched the heater video...

You missed one of the most important facts about that heater control valve!

That is not JUST a heater control valve!

That puppy is a heater BYPASS valve which is significantly better than a control valve!

It recirculates hot coolant back to the engine (or wherever you want on your car).

Many modern engines REQUIRE flow through the heater circuit during all operations as the engineers use the heater circuit for additional engine cooling or air bubble clearing purposes. My Miatas HAVE to have this with a stock cooling system routing.
Modify the Miata with a rear of head located thermostat housing and you can kill the heater circuit off at will, but stock routing will die quickly without the heater circuit.

Add a simple control valve and you blow the head gasket 500 miles down the road!

Most of the modern stuff runs no control valve at all. You have blend doors that direct the airflow around the heater core during hot months. As the door gaskets age, you get "bleed through" heat. The heater system is usually 5 times stronger than the AC system and on a 15-year-old vehicle you can have enough bleed through to have 25-35 degrees of heat added to the system. You end up with AC that sucks hard!

The fix is complete HVAC box rebuilding which usually requires dash removal OR adding a heater control valve on engines that can have the heater circuit removed.

Have one that uses the heater circuit for more than just heat?

You have to have a control valve that makes a loop instead of just closing it off.

Those critters always have 4 ports just like what you have there!

Lots of internet garbage about the LS1 style engines requiring a heater circuit!
Many swear you have to but GM themselves put a simple vacuum-controlled valve, just a 2 port shut off valve, in the Holden based 04-06 GTO. This puppy does NOT recirculate and the LS2 installed in this car works fine without the heater circuit.
The difference in AC temperature between a Camaro and a GTO at MAX AC is 10+ degrees!
The GTO I fixed problem was below 32 degree vent temps (saw 18F!) and it was COMPOUNDED by not having something the size of a toaster inside the car at 200 degrees!

4 port heater control valves are "THE WAY" in my book and the one you found looks NICE.

PM incoming for your source!

Rick

[technicalninja]

When you have an engine (like the LS) that does not require a bypass valve this is what I suggest and use often.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/uac-hv1227c

These fit on mid 2000s Toyota and is a barrel valve internally.

It will hold any setting you put it on forever...

It's a simple 2 port that does not recirculate and from Toyota it's expensive.

I haven't had an aftermarket one fail yet...

It has two 5/8" fittings.

I'm betting I've installed 50!

We can add a valve for $100 or rebuild your HVAC box for $1500.

The valve WILL actually make the car colder than it was originally!

All customers choose this method!

[tygaboy]

Source for the heater valve, in case others are interested:
https://www.oldairproducts.com/product/heat...lve-kit-50-1555