Are head and cylinder gaskets compression gaskets? Options

[stevegm]

I need to remove the heads off of a newly rebuilt engine (4-cylinder) I built (never run). They have already been torqued. Are the head gaskets and gasket between the cylinder and block, compression gaskets that should be thrown away (i.e., replaced with new one) after I untorque the heads?

The head gaskets will be easy to replace. But I'd have to pull the cylinders to replace the ones between them and the block.

[Mark Henry]

My lapping procedure is actually quite simple.

I use valve grinding compound, not because I think it's the best, but because I have a huge can of it that was given to me. I put an even coat on the sealing surface of the cylinder, place it in the head and turn it a couple times (no pressure)complete turns, then check to see that I have an even coat.
I then turn it so it facing the direction it will be installed. I grab it with both hands and rotate back and forth the limits of my wrists, I put slight downward pressure to make sure the head doesn't lift or cock in the bore.
As I start I look at the clock, I keep a steady cadence and I do the same amount of time on each cylinder. The amount of time will depend on your compound, mine is fairly aggressive and I only have to do 1-2 minutes each bore. Once I have a clear, even lap it's done.
I mark every cylinder and bore so they stay in order, very important.
Cleaning has to be spotless, again very important.

If you are doing a real good job you should also have your case bores surfaced/decked, I do this as a part of every build now, as I find many are out of spec.

The last detail is do a freaking CR check, (plus deck height) and shim it for a correct CR.
Google engine calculator and plug in the numbers, I can do the math, I don't need a calculator.
Head CC you can buy the plate kit or make one out of 1/4" clear plexi, you can get a CC syringe from a drugstore, just tell them what you want it for, tell them you don't want the needle and you want the biggest they have. PITA because 10cc is likely the biggest they have, but in a pinch it works. Just don't lose count. Oil will kill the rubber stopper, you can use water, but put a drop of Dawn dish soap in it to break the surface tension.
You can get custom shims made by RIMCO and EMW keeps a stock of shims. You can use up to 3 of the thin factory shims but no more. They must be shimed exactly the same.

That's it, I've never seen the need to go full rotations. Many years ago I talked to a swiss trained master machinist friend about my procedure and he agreed with it, BTW same guy who gave me the big can of lapping compound.
My heads never leak, at least not till it's time that they should be rebuilt anyways.
Been doing it this way for years.

[stugray]

Head CC you can buy the plate kit or make one out of 1/4" clear plexi, you can get a CC syringe from a drugstore, just tell them what you want it for, tell them you don't want the needle and you want the biggest they have. PITA because 10cc is likely the biggest they have, but in a pinch it works.

I found one at a farm supply in the "veterinary/medicine" department.
It was ....wait for it...... 60ccs.

In my area the store is Murdoch's I don't know what you have in the GWN.