Sad set back, Cockpit reinforcement Options

[Wew]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) gents I need your help. I have been busting my arse on this ride and welding in reinforcement brackets that I can no longer close my doors. Tried cutting near the lift points. Car jacked up doors work car down doesn't work. Please offer guidance and personal experience as the car before opened and closed without issue

Thank you : (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[Wew]

Additional pics

[76-914]

The car length shrunk. There are several posts here addressing that. Your not the first but hopefully the last. Proper bracing and welding techniques prevent this. From those stitch welds I can see it got hot during the welding. A big no-no. Weld 2 or 3 spots on one side, not a freeking 3" span, then move to the other side. An area is ready for additional welding if you can lay your Pecker on it comfortably. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Wew]

One more pic. You can see where the top of the door has pinched on itself and actually caused the pain to chip off

[Wew]

I appreciate the reply and welcome more. I did cut and jack up. Then when spacing was achieved jacking rewelded. As soon as I let the jack down it contracted back.
I would appreciate some guidance regarding proper bracing.. Please advise
Thanks much

Gary

[draganc]

Do you have any pictures of the area before the welding was done? it would help to assess the original damage, going forward.

here is one elegant way to brace the door while doing any welding:

http://www.tangerineracing.com/tools.htm

you can also use two steel square tubes and weld them in palace overlapped - for easy installation.

the previous post have already commented that the mistake was that the car wasn't braced and too much heat was inserted.
relax, before you do any next steps, search the forum who has done the same repair.

you will eventually end up cutting out your previous fix - as you have already done, "relax" the chassis and brace it back to spec and function. Than, weld back the repair SLOWLY!

post a lot of pics and ask a lot of questions. the forum is a great source of knowledge and members that want to help.

[draganc]

PS: btw, your welds look rather nice....

[Wew]

Thanks for the compliment on the welds. Where does one weld the brackets to maintain proper spacing?
Would like to apply the two steel square tube solution.
Any write ups and images on this forum?

Thanks a bunch and taking the time for feedback,

Gary

[GaroldShaffer]

With the Tangerine racing kit you don't weld the brackets in. You remove the doors and use where the door bolts on and the door latch bolts on. You adjust the door gap by turning the rod ends to get the correct opening width.

[draganc]

IMHO, one of the best source for rust repair:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...;hl=rustoration


you will see the door brace on the first few pics.

[SixerJ]

Sad news indeed and a lot of work to get back to where you started. The good news is there are some really experienced guys here who will provide sage advice. I second the digging into hell hole thread

This will also be your friend http://www.914world.com/specs/914info.php click under dimensions and there are diagrams & measurements to figure out just how far out you are now and where you need to get back to

Don't think about bracing between roll bar and screen frame! You will just make matters worse and bend the screen, use the door bar method as suggested

Good luck

[wndsrfr]

One more pic. You can see where the top of the door has pinched on itself and actually caused the pain to chip off

If the door fits properly when on the jack, then I think your problem is that the underside of the longitudinal is weak, allowing the sag when off of the jack....post a pic of that area....did you do any welding there?

[wndsrfr]

If the door fits properly when on the jack, then I think your problem is that the underside of the longitudinal is weak, allowing the sag when off of the jack....post a pic of that area....did you do any welding there?

[cary]

If the door fits properly when on the jack, then I think your problem is that the underside of the longitudinal is weak, allowing the sag when off of the jack....post a pic of that area....did you do any welding there?

I concur with John ................ there's more to the story.

[Curbandgutter]

....An area is ready for additional welding if you can lay your Pecker on it comfortably. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Priceless advice (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) I'll remember next time I'm welding.

[rhodyguy]

Hate to check the temp too early with the pecker test. ZOIKS!

[Wew]

Thanks for all the input and direction.
The pecker test is the best and worst.
I will not mess around and purchase the kit from tangerine racing.
I will remove all rocker brackets.
Do I need to remove the one on the back?
Will explore further on the lower rockers.

Thanks fellas and keep the tips and advice coming.

I won't get through this without you,

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

[tygaboy]

Thanks for all the input and direction.
The pecker test is the best and worst.
I will not mess around and purchase the kit from tangerine racing.
I will remove all rocker brackets.
Do I need to remove the one on the back?
Will explore further on the lower rockers.

Thanks fellas and keep the tips and advice coming.

I won't get through this without you,

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

I'm in Petaluma and in the process of chassis stiffening. If you'd like to swing by and take a look at the Tangerine braces in action, PM me and we can meet up.
I've also added a feature that allows me to run the brace with the doors on the car. I didn't invent it, gurus like RickS and Jeff Hail have been doing it for years.
You can see some detailed pics in my Build Off thread, too.

Note that Chris Foley (Tangerine) has plans for an update to allow the doors to stay on. Check w/him on when that may be available. Else you can do something like I did.

Chris

[Wew]

If the door fits properly when on the jack, then I think your problem is that the underside of the longitudinal is weak, allowing the sag when off of the jack....post a pic of that area....did you do any welding there?

I concur with John ................ there's more to the story.

"
No welding there. I will look closer. Did the ice pick test along with close visual. Of course exterior rocker panels emoted for paint.
Hell hole atleast near battery tray and engine compartment looked good
Me and a bud stood in the car near each door when I first purchased car. 350 lbs between the two of us and the door opened and shut.
I will continue to dig and I just ordered the tool from tangerine racing
Stay tuned.

[Wew]

Thanks for all the input and direction.
The pecker test is the best and worst.
I will not mess around and purchase the kit from tangerine racing.
I will remove all rocker brackets.
Do I need to remove the one on the back?
Will explore further on the lower rockers.

Thanks fellas and keep the tips and advice coming.

I won't get through this without you,

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

I'm in Petaluma and in the process of chassis stiffening. If you'd like to swing by and take a look at the Tangerine braces in action, PM me and we can meet up.
I've also added a feature that allows me to run the brace with the doors on the car. I didn't invent it, gurus like RickS and Jeff Hail have been doing it for years.
You can see some detailed pics in my Build Off thread, too.

Note that Chris Foley (Tangerine) has plans for an update to allow the doors to stay on. Check w/him on when that may be available. Else you can do something like I did.

Chris

Awesome Chris thanks much and I will give you a call to coordinate a time to swing by.
Thanks again