Engine Build Recommendadtion Options

[euro911]

Quick Recipe:
96mm jugs & KB pistons from European MS
webcam 86b camshaft & lifters
New FW, & clutch assembly
have rotating assembly balanced
Mallory Unilite (now MSD) with 6AL ignition
2.0L heads and have them flycut/trued a little to get a new mating surface & raise the CR a tad
Deck the case and have it checked for line bore.
Set the deck height for ~.035 (no head gaskets).
This will get you close to 9.0/1 CR. (Edit - Sorry it is more like 9.5:1 CR)

Then install carbs or microsquirt.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) ... Pretty much what's in the 'BB' except for a Raby 9580 cam, also slightly larger SS valves, 911 swivel adjusters & chromoly push rods (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[N_Jay]

Lots of stuff to start with. Do you have induction for the 2.4 hand grenade motor? I'd noodle that first, unless you have to source induction.

choice 2 2056 H beam rods, stock bid end, 22 mm little end. Huge difference in rotating mass. Price the cost of rebuilding stock rods, that is when it start to make sense. I have never had a flywheel lightened. I weighted stock vs H-beam rods, 24 mm wrist pins and JE forged 96 mm pistons. Saves more weight than lightening a flywheel.

There is a thread regarding rod bearing quality. I have no experience with this this, but it is something that would concern me. I still would avoid going to buick or type 1 journals because once you start looking at those changes its 20 incremental jumps to stroker 2270. Huge price differentialwhen the project is done.

Glad to spend your dime

The 2.4 was running Dellordos but they got moved to eth 2.0 when the valve problem happened. (and are now looking really sad with stiff throttles and signs of corrosion.)

The engine did not grenade as it was an exhaust valve and it did not break, just rattle on decal.

Are people really having bearing problems on non-race engines?
The 2.4 is all 2.0 bearings if I recall.

[N_Jay]

Quick Recipe:
96mm jugs & KB pistons from European MS
webcam 86b camshaft & lifters
New FW, & clutch assembly
have rotating assembly balanced
Mallory Unilite (now MSD) with 6AL ignition
2.0L heads and have them flycut/trued a little to get a new mating surface & raise the CR a tad
Deck the case and have it checked for line bore.
Set the deck height for ~.035 (no head gaskets).
This will get you close to 9.0/1 CR. (Edit - Sorry it is more like 9.5:1 CR)

Then install carbs or microsquirt.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) ... Pretty much what's in the 'BB' except for a Raby 9580 cam, also slightly larger SS valves, 911 swivel adjusters & chromoly push rods (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

I guess I need to decide if I am going to play with MS or stay D-Jet before picking the cam.

What is the estimated gain going from the best cam the D-Jet will take to a good smooth-running cam running an MS system?

[euro911]

As was mentioned above, you can also check with George @ EMW (European Motor Works).

EMW supplies a lot of the aftermarket stores around the country that sell T1 and T4 parts and also has an extensive history in engine building.

I think that George will help you with selecting the components you would need - he does for me, but then again, I've known George for many years and I purchase parts and have machining work done there.

[davep]

What are the current recommendations on bearings? I believe I have some NOS VW main & cam bearings, but need 2.0 rod bearings. Is it typical these days to use two cam bearing sets to have full thrust bearing set? Are there bearing brands to look for or to avoid? What about recommended vendors?
I will also need to get a gasket set and the usual ancillary parts. Are new rod bolts & nuts typically used?

[euro911]

Dave, call George at European (310) 644-8038 ... he'd be happy to discuss what's available.