Oscillating whine while driving, I'm thinking rear wheel bearings Options

[Rusty]

Today I heard an oscillating high-pitched whine while driving. It varied with speed. I'm thinking rear wheel bearings - any thoughts?

If that's probably it, I'll pull them apart tomorrow and repack them. Any tips or tricks for that project?

-Rusty (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smoke.gif)

[TheCabinetmaker]

Have you checked the tranni fluid level?

[Rusty]

No, I haven't. I was planning on doing that with the oil change tomorrow.

Gearbox failure. That's a scary thought. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif)

The sound comes and goes. The pitch of the sound changes with speed, not with RPMs. It doesn't change when I push down on the clutch.

[Eric_Shea]

You're going to repack the bearings? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)

They're sealed split ring bearings. How old are they? Replace not repack. Do you need some advice on the removal and install?

Let me know.

E.

[Rgreen914]

Lawrence

"Repack them"? I thought they could only replace them! If you have to pull them, a puller is the easiest way.

Ron

[Rusty]

QUOTE (Eric_Shea @ Apr 21 2005, 06:56 PM)

You're going to repack the bearings? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif) They're sealed split ring bearings. How old are they? Replace not repack. Do you need some advice on the removal and install? Let me know. E.

I figured they were like the fronts. Look like I'll need to deadline the car until I can get a set.

How bad is the R&R for the rears?

-Rusty (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smoke.gif)

[Rgreen914]

"How bad is the R&R...?" Two elephants and some strong language!!!

Ron

[914GT]

You can disassemble and repack the rear bearings by prying the grease seals out. The problem is you can't get to the seals without taking the stub axle and hub off which can (or will) damage the bearing. If you had a way to press out the bearings and pry out the seals without damaging them, you could clean and repack them though. Won't be easy though, and probably not worth it.

[lapuwali]

I'd do the rear wheel bearings, and hope that's it. If it isn't, it's probably the pinion bearing, or MAYBE of the the diff output shaft bearings.

[URY914]

If the bearings are making noise thier trashed already. Pull them and replace.

PS. It is a bitch of a job. Take the trailing arm off and put the hub in a press.

Paul

[Rusty]

So I've got to pull that castle nut... the mega-torqued one?

-Rusty (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smoke.gif)

[Rusty]

QUOTE (URY914 @ Apr 21 2005, 07:47 PM)

If the bearings are making noise thier trashed already. Pull them and replace. PS. It is a bitch of a job. Take the trailing arm off and put the hub in a press. Paul

So this isn't just an afternoon and a six-pack job?

[URY914]

An afternoon and a six-pack per side.

Sorry.

Paul

[Rusty]

Well, lemme start by checking the gear oil. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

Worst case, I've got a set of wheel bearings in the garage already.

Either way, I'll start pulling those plugs, and spraying PB Blaster down inside the trailing arm bolt holes.

-Rusty (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smoke.gif)

[Rgreen914]

QUOTE (URY914 @ Apr 21 2005, 04:47 PM)

PS. It is a bitch of a job. Take the trailing arm off and put the hub in a press.

Lawrence

Once you undo that "mega-torqued" nut AND you have one of those (two-piece) bearing pullers (I got mine from Perf Parts, if I remember correctly) it's a very simple and quick removal; I even used it to install the new bearings, though Brad says to freeze them so they will just slide in. NO NEED to pull off the trailing arms!

Ron

P.S. The puller ain't CHEAP!

[Eric_Shea]

Guy... come on (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif)

Rusty,

It isn't fun but it can be a day job. I'd take the arms off. Yes, you'll need to take off the 210lb castleatted nut and the shocks, you might want to leave the shocks on the arms and take them off at the top.

Once you have them off you need to get the hub out. I use an old 911 rear torsion bar on the fat end. One whack with a 5lb sledge and they're out. Remove the bearing retaining plate with a 13mm ratchet.

Now you need to get the bearing out. If you have air and an air hammer, use a blunt bit and power it out using a "clock" pattern (12:00 - 6:00, 1:00-7:00, etc...). Watch the bearing. After a few blasts it should be on it's way... if not, hit it with a MAPP torch around the seating surface. Air hammer again and check for progress. Short bursts with the air hammer is all that's needed. Place the bit right on that seal that Guy talked about, you'll destroy it but... it's gone anyway.

Your new bearings should be in the freezer overnight so take them out and slide them in. Prep the bore first. I use 600 grit to make sure everything is smooth. A rubber mallet is all that should be needed to get them back in. Some drop in and some take some serious work with a press but most... simply tap-tap-tap in. Make sure you get them started straight and use light taps at first. Once you're certain they're on their way you can tap a bit harder.

Put the retaining plate back on.

Pull in the hub. I use a large threaded rod, the original washer on top and a 1 1/2" socket on the backside. A couple of nuts to lock it into place and a nut on top to pull in the hub (does that make sense?) There's a classic thread that shows it. Brad has success using the castellated nut "upside down" on the original stub axle to get started and then turns it back over to finish the job.

Bolt it back up.

[lapuwali]

I'd say (not having actually done it), that it would probably be easier to remove the arms than leave them in place. For one thing, you don't have to touch the axles this way. Just pull the castle nuts and the pivot bolt, and the stub axle should just slide out of the hub, leaving the complete half-shaft/CV/stub axle assembly attached to the car.

[Eric_Shea]

QUOTE

the stub axle should just slide out of the hub

"should" being the operative word (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

[Rusty]

Getting the trailing nut off shouldn't be too bad. I have a 4x torque multiplier and a good length of steel pipe. I'll have to buy the right sized 1" socket, though.

I'm more worried about the three bolts holding the trailing arm to the body. Ever had one break off? It's your worst nightmare - trust me.

I think the time consuming thing will be cleaning up the arm (powdercoating) to get it ready to reinstall. I hate bolting cruddy stuff up. Then, as long as I'm in there - rebuilding the CV joints makes sense, right? If I gotta disconnect the CV joints, well... I might as well do the transmission output (flange) seals. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif)

Geez... I've only had the car home two days. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/happy11.gif)

-Rusty (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smoke.gif)

P.S. I'll check gear oil first. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

[Rgreen914]

Eric

I had never done this job before and didn't mention anything about pulling out the hub because it seems to me he was most interested in the actual bearing removal. I removed and replaced both bearings using only hand tools and the puller; I did not remove the trailing arms, just the shocks. I reinstalled the new bearings using the puller and I seem to remember using it to reinstall the hubs. This puller came with no instructions but a little intuition and some creativity was all that was needed; it's and amazing "little"item. It cost well over a $100 but it made everything so easy, it was well worth the price!

Ron