Left Side Ignition, converting your dash Options

[jim_hoyland]

its the same as the same year 911, but the PN is superseded to the later aluminplate
911-347-621-00 SS 91134735901 911,347,359,01

Does that part go on the outside of the dash face ?

[McMark]

Yup, in the following order...

Ignition Switch behind dash

------------------Dash Frame------------------

Reinforcement plate in front of dash

---------Basket Weave Vinyl Facing---------

Plastic Escutcheon/Surround

[sixnotfour]

Nice job McMark, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

uneducated viewer , ya it real it has a "Left Key"
this is the cheapest and easiest way.

[Harpo]

What year 911 column do I need for this conversion

Thanks

David

[McMark]

Only early cars and real 914-6 steering column will bolt up without modification. A 911 column must have the 914 mount plate moved over. I'm not sure what the cutoff date would be, but this thread has some pictures so you know what you're looking for. There are other examples on the site here as well.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-179-1255286295_thumb.jpg)

[sixnotfour]

911 columns 69-73

[Steve]

What if you don't care about the column switches. Can't you just cut the arm off of the 911 ignition switch. Keep enough of the arm to use the buzzer switch?

[jim_hoyland]

What if you don't care about the column switches. Can't you just cut the arm off of the 911 ignition switch. Keep enough of the arm to use the buzzer switch?

I was informed that it's doable

[McMark]

Yup, absolutely.

[jim_hoyland]

What if you don't care about the column switches. Can't you just cut the arm off of the 911 ignition switch. Keep enough of the arm to use the buzzer switch?

Is the buzzer switch the part to the right of the main tumbler ? IIRC the mechanism at the end of the arm will have to work; spring loaded ?

[SixerJ]

Mark 1stly apologies for the hijack. I was thinking of pulling the column parts I have been piecing together for my six & photograph them for posterity with all the talk of column conversions and thought it would be better to keep it with other conversion info

Harpo pinged me the other night to post some info, so here goes

These are the bits that if you are going to do a column conversion you need to get together. The parts in the photo would suit all years except the fact that the early cars (-4 and -6) had the smaller mounting plate fitted to the column tube, if you have a later car and converting a 911 tube, as Mark states, you need to use the later mount plate. If you have an early car you need to fabricate the small mounting plate. I will take dims and post in this thread

Missing from the picture is the steering wheel washer, rubber isolation pad (NLA) that goes between column tube and mounting plate and front column tube bearing, apart from those I think it's all there



There are a number of excellent conversion threads on this site about to go about the conversion. The major hurdles to get it to function and 'look right' (until now) were the upper and lower covers, the eyebrow covers that close the gap to the dash frame itself, ignition bezel (still an issue) and of course Mark's & RD's super hard to hand fabricate ignition dimple. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smiley_notworthy.gif)

I started down the 911 column conversion route while I hunted for genuine used and NOS six parts. Info I have found out along the way through reading the threads and background research;

As others have stated the best way to start is with as a complete 911 column and switches & lock etc as possible, this is definitely the least cost route

Column tube itself is exactly the same as a long wheelbase pre impact bumper 911 unit with the exception of the U shape ignition lock thing. The 914-6 tube has the U shape doodahh welded on 180 out to clear a bolt hole in the small plate - no biggie just makes assembly slightly more fiddly I would imagine. For a later car, I would imagine that there is lots of clearance

If using a later lock, again as members have stated you need to trim down the end of the lock to fit the early column tube, again there are posts with the required dims, but I can't find it right now

Tube spline shaft, rear bearings, horn ring, horn contact, misc fixing screws are all 911 parts. PET however does list the 914-6 front bearing and spring that sits against the bearing as distinctly different part numbers to the 911 parts. The spring in the picture (hard to see as it is from above) is actually 911 item & I have looked at both my 911 tube and complete 914-6 tube and I cannot see an obvious difference in the front bearing

Bearings are still available (super expensive so don't bugger yours up), as is the 914-6 spring (I'm going to order one as it is a low cost item) / have a genuine column and front bearing - just in case. If there is a difference I will update once I have it in my hand

I found by chance that the cheese head screws which mount the ignition switch to the lock and column switches to tube are the same as 2" round electrical conduit box cover screws, this probably helps those in Europe save some dimes, but not US members being generally imperial thread in construction- sorry. Correct finish for screws, washers etc is gold passivate

If you have your original -4 wheel you'll need to purchase the horn cancellation ring / remove the -4 rear assembly. The cancel ring, new horn contact pin is available from SMadre and others

I ran out of power in the phone tonight to document, but 914-6 and 911 wiper switches are basically the same (round 6 connector) and when I pinned them out they also seemed to be electrically the same (only 5 pins used out of the 6).

Direction indicator switch is different, but principally it's the loom - flash function? 914-6 has a single rectangular plug, 911 item has the loom split to two plugs. It really only matters if you have a genuine -6 loom. If converting you would just cut and splice

Part number stamping on the arm is different and only matters if you are being anal and have a genuine car

Splined shaft that mounts up to the rear of the column and over to the rack is also different depending on year and model. The good news is that with the majority of cars being post 72 that shaft is the same part number as a -6. If you have an early -4 you need to acquire the later shaft - which lets face it is not going to be hard

Will post more pics of the switches etc & dims of the small plate tomorrow but also try and get a CAD file sorted by my guy at work (maybe the new year now)

I know you will but, if I'm out of line with any details please step in to correct

[rhodyguy]

Is there a desired plastic 'cup' on the back of the steering wheel for this method?

[mepstein]

Is there a desired plastic 'cup' on the back of the steering wheel for this method?

Neither. You use the early 911 / 914-6 setup, early 914 wheel ( ends with a 10 & 911 cancel ring). Shown in post #51

[SixerJ]

More pictures

Wiper stalk switches, from Right to Left;

NOS 914-6 (6 pin connector with all pins present / 1 unused)
Used 914-6 (6 pin connector with one pin missing - just visible)
Used 911 (901 part number on the stalk so early, with six pins. The loose wire with a spade connector goes to the 6th connector that is unused in the 914-6 part. Sheathing is partly removed as the loom has some damage from when the column was cut out of the 911 by the eBay seller with a gas axe (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif))



Turn Signal switches

From Right to Left;

Used 911 (901 part number again). Loom is damaged and even missing one of its connectors due to the gas axe. Ebay seller cleverly positioned all the loom damage in the photos so I couldn't see). Messy but reparable and useable for a conversion

Used 914-6
NOS 914-6

Loom lengths are similar for both 914 and 911 items. If you really wanted to re-create a 914-6 switch, loom and plug using a 911 switch as a basis it would be perfectly doable with the correct rectangular plug. However you would also have to have a matching -6 main loom - not worth it for a conversion. Part number on stalk would be incorrect however as these are stamped in



Column tubes

911 and 914-6 tubes. Same basic construction, length and lock hole identical. U lock spun as described before

[SixerJ]

More

I have figured out that there is indeed a difference in the upper bearings, 911 tube measuring from the outer flange to the bearing surface 9.1 - 9.2mm depending on where you measured



914-6 column distance is slightly shorter at 8.4mm

Not sure why the difference, clearance at the clamshells / stop something rubbing. I'm guessing that the 914-6 spring would also differ by 1mm?

Seems like a lot of effort for less than 1mm delta

[McMark]

This is turning into a great overall how-to thread. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

Here's the thread we had about the ignition switch itself.

Also my thread about a replacement upper bearing that's not $280 and works better overall.

[Mark Henry]

I'm seeing two ways, a no lock with what looks like stock /4 switches and one with 911 switches and locking. I take it the latter is correct...or are they both correct?

[SixerJ]

I'm seeing two ways, a no lock with what looks like stock /4 switches and one with 911 switches and locking. I take it the latter is correct...or are they both correct?

Yep, Genuine six route would be the latter, lots of bits and $$ as even the 911 parts are no longer a low cost option. -4 route would be the dash frame mod, relocate ignition (no lock) and keep the -4 column etc - comparatively simple and much less $ than the full six route

I'm doing the former as I have a genuine six, but it lost its column (and other bits) when she went racing & trying to reverse time

Start with the frame mod while hunting for 911 parts, lower commitment but with future options?

[Harpo]

Here is my diy 914-6 column

[gereed75]

Mark, do you have any of the replacement bearing kits left? PM me info. Thanks