 How much should i expect to pay for a 911 front suspension, stub axel and hub, just looking for a price check |
|
|
|
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG.
This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way. Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners. |
|
|
  |
| tazz9924 |
 Dec 4 2016, 01:09 PM
Post
#1
|
|
Senior Member  Group: Members Posts: 725 Joined: 31-May 15 From: Mooresville NC Member No.: 18,779 Region Association: None  |
Just curious about how much its worth for 911 front suspension Ie: control arms shocks hubs etc. then a 911 stub axel (or just one that works with 944 cv joint), and a 911 rear hub. I make 250 hp and i live in constant fear of my baby 914 joint breaking so redrilled hub arnt for me. Thanks!
|
   |
 
|
| Steve |
Dec 4 2016, 02:34 PM
Post
#2
|
|
914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,857 Joined: 14-June 03 From: Laguna Niguel, CA Member No.: 822 Region Association: Southern California 
|
That's a tough question because prices range depending on early versus late, condition, type of brakes, etc. I would pm Bruce stone and see what he has laying around. I would also check eBay and pelican parts 911 classifieds. Hopefully someone will respond with what they have purchased recently, since parts have gone way up with the cost of air cooled 911's.
|
|
|
|
| Mike Bellis |
Dec 4 2016, 02:36 PM
Post
#3
|
|
Resident Electrician Group: Members Posts: 8,347 Joined: 22-June 09 From: Midlothian TX Member No.: 10,496 Region Association: None 
|
I sold a front end, without calipers and rotors for $400.
|
|
|
|
| tazz9924 |
Dec 4 2016, 03:40 PM
Post
#4
|
|
Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 725 Joined: 31-May 15 From: Mooresville NC Member No.: 18,779 Region Association: None |
QUOTE(Mike Bellis @ Dec 4 2016, 12:36 PM)  I sold a front end, without calipers and rotors for $400. what year was it? |
|
|
|
| porschetub |
Dec 4 2016, 03:41 PM
Post
#5
|
|
Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,816 Joined: 25-July 15 From: New Zealand Member No.: 18,995 Region Association: None |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) prices are all over the place any way,250hp won't bust cv's if they are in good condition and they have the right fastenings,unless you drive hard and have lots of torque ?.
Lots of guys running corrected engineered axle flanges converted to five stud on here...I believe without issue. Depends on your wallet of course ,going to larger cv's isn't so DIY or cheap. |
|
|
|
| amfab |
Dec 4 2016, 03:47 PM
Post
#6
|
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 401 Joined: 17-May 16 From: Los Angeles Member No.: 20,004 Region Association: None
|
I bought spindles with inserts for $450
3.0 spacing though Here is my response to someone who asked this questions about 2 months ago: I have been casually looking for struts the last couple months because I have slowly started to accumulate parts for a 914-6 conversion. I have seen some struts that are way overpriced on eBay. 3.5 and 3.0 spacing struts with asking prices $800, $1k or more, but they do not seem to sell (there has been a nice set of 3.5 Konis there for $650 for a month or more—see: ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/NICE-PAIR-ORIGINAL...item54359d5a58: g:Ct8AAOSwhOdXpJaG&vxp=mtr In the Pelican, Early 911s Registry, and Rennlist classifieds, what I have seen is 3.5 spacing struts with no hubs/calipers—in good shape—going for $400–$800 a pair (a pair just sold a few days ago on Pelican for $400). The 3inch spacing ones are not as desirable so less So struts $400ish Hubs go for $250-300 a pair Rotors are fairly cheap new maybe $75 Rebuilt calipers $300-$350 A-arms $100-$125 As a whole package I would guess a reasonable price $900-$1100 maybe more with torsion bars, newer inserts, sway bars, crossmember, newer bearings or if everything is in really good shape I am curious if others think this is a reasonable price. |
|
|
|
| Steve |
Dec 5 2016, 12:40 AM
Post
#7
|
|
914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,857 Joined: 14-June 03 From: Laguna Niguel, CA Member No.: 822 Region Association: Southern California
|
It's easier to just replace the struts versus the whole front end. That's what I did. It's much cheaper unless your looking for the later model aluminum cross member. Regarding the rear, if your worried about cv's I would either convert to 100mm or 108mm. Both options are covered in the technical session of this site.
|
|
|
|
| Larmo63 |
Dec 5 2016, 12:49 AM
Post
#8
|
|
Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,267 Joined: 3-March 14 From: San Clemente, Ca Member No.: 17,068 Region Association: Southern California |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
Find 3 1/2" spaced front struts if you can, and you will have more choices for better front braking. They will bolt right up. An aluminum crossbar is nice, but not necessary. I'd take everything off of the car and start fresh with all new ball joints, turbo tie rods, and new heavier torsion. I put together a whole separate system off of the car, so I could keep driving. When it was all together clean, plated, powder coated, new bushings, bearings, new, new, new, we swapped it all over to the car. It was a lot of money, it took time, but the suspension is golden. |
|
|
|
|
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:
|
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 9th May 2025 - 04:32 AM |
Invision Power Board
v9.1.4 © 2025 IPS, Inc.