AFM flap must have bent, L-Jet tweeked for a 1911 cc |
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AFM flap must have bent, L-Jet tweeked for a 1911 cc |
malcolm2 |
Dec 17 2016, 08:13 AM
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#21
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,747 Joined: 31-May 11 From: Nashville Member No.: 13,139 Region Association: South East States |
well the backfire valve did not work, cause mine has one of those.
It seems that finding the proper one (at a good price) will be difficult. (75 7-pin, Bosch 0 280 201 002)Even the option of an older model, or a Non 914 will take some digging. I don't mind the challenge of changing the guts. My guess is same year VW might be close, what other model year cars should I look for? I emailed the Phoenix guy, I'll try to call when the sun rises in the west. |
jim_hoyland |
Dec 17 2016, 01:46 PM
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#22
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,317 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
Try Bruce Stone too
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djway |
Dec 17 2016, 02:23 PM
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#23
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 787 Joined: 16-October 15 From: Riverside Member No.: 19,266 Region Association: Southern California |
Back in the day they just replaced the part even though they are repairable. First make sure there are ZERO vacuum leaks in the system. The main boot could have torn during the backfire or a hose loosened somewhere. If there is a leak you can work for a month and it won't run right. Next -Remove the wiper arm from the potentiometer. Manually move the flap to full open and let it close several times. If you notice any binding then try to determine where the bind is occurring and try to eliminate that which is highly likely you will be able to do. Check the potentiometer board for scoring or gouges and clean. If the board is damaged, you can find another L Jet potientomoter and change it out. I found a bus AFM and pulled a nice clean board out of that. If you are in there, open up the air temp sensor and clean the contacts. Next follow the videos on how to set the height etcetera of the wiper. That little chrome rod can bend and get caught so after it is installed manually move the flap full open and let close several times to check the flap action. If it now works fine you are good to go for the fine tuning of the spring setting which requires an O2 sensor. I bought a gauge and made my own tester. If it is getting stuck again, first check the chrome arm that opens the fuel pump contact. Note, that arm should just barely open the contact. When the flap is closed the end of the wiper contact will point exactly at the corner of one of the printed circuits. Check again to make sure you have a flap that will fully open then close without binding. If the wiper arm is too low it will bind when open and stay that way. Good luck.
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jim_hoyland |
Dec 17 2016, 05:36 PM
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#24
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,317 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
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timothy_nd28 |
Dec 17 2016, 06:39 PM
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#25
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,299 Joined: 25-September 07 From: IN Member No.: 8,154 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Back in the day they just replaced the part even though they are repairable. First make sure there are ZERO vacuum leaks in the system. The main boot could have torn during the backfire or a hose loosened somewhere. If there is a leak you can work for a month and it won't run right. Next -Remove the wiper arm from the potentiometer. Manually move the flap to full open and let it close several times. If you notice any binding then try to determine where the bind is occurring and try to eliminate that which is highly likely you will be able to do. Check the potentiometer board for scoring or gouges and clean. If the board is damaged, you can find another L Jet potientomoter and change it out. I found a bus AFM and pulled a nice clean board out of that. If you are in there, open up the air temp sensor and clean the contacts. Next follow the videos on how to set the height etcetera of the wiper. That little chrome rod can bend and get caught so after it is installed manually move the flap full open and let close several times to check the flap action. If it now works fine you are good to go for the fine tuning of the spring setting which requires an O2 sensor. I bought a gauge and made my own tester. If it is getting stuck again, first check the chrome arm that opens the fuel pump contact. Note, that arm should just barely open the contact. When the flap is closed the end of the wiper contact will point exactly at the corner of one of the printed circuits. Check again to make sure you have a flap that will fully open then close without binding. If the wiper arm is too low it will bind when open and stay that way. Good luck. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) |
malcolm2 |
Dec 19 2016, 12:13 PM
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#26
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,747 Joined: 31-May 11 From: Nashville Member No.: 13,139 Region Association: South East States |
Seems like a nice guy.... He is trying to find a friend with a PayPal account. This could be it. fingers are crossed. |
sfrenck |
Dec 19 2016, 07:00 PM
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#27
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Member Group: Members Posts: 492 Joined: 28-February 10 From: Wilmington, DE Member No.: 11,411 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Fuel Injection Corporation seems to sell remanufactured units with limited warranty. No personal knowledge of the company or product.
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malcolm2 |
Dec 22 2016, 06:42 PM
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#28
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,747 Joined: 31-May 11 From: Nashville Member No.: 13,139 Region Association: South East States |
Fuel Injection Corporation seems to sell remanufactured units with limited warranty. No personal knowledge of the company or product. You are correct. +$300..... for new guts. My guts seem to be fine. 75 rebuild link |
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