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> Need to Power Car Radio on the Bench Top, 110v to 12v converter
gcrotvik
post Jan 1 2017, 02:43 PM
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QUOTE(stugray @ Jan 1 2017, 12:38 PM) *

QUOTE(gcrotvik @ Jan 1 2017, 01:15 PM) *

Thanks for the feedback. My stereo install isn't an audiophile setup but more than the standard 2 speaker in the stock location setup. I'm testing secondary speaker and hidden satellite antenna locations for a second car.

I was also hoping to find a power supply to mimic a fully charged battery to power my chassis harness for testing of all components while installing it (turn signals, headlight motors, fans, etc.). I found many 110VAC to 12VDC power supplies on-line but wasn't sure they would suit my needs as I didn't want to blow up my chassis harness during testing. I'm a network and software engineer, not an electrical engineer so I'm out of my element with power.

Here is the unit I found: http://www.ebay.com/itm/282264455526?_trks...K%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Greg


That one looks good. I had to check because some LED drivers are constant current.
This one appears to be constant voltage (current varies to whatever up to 10A), so it should work perfectly.


Thank you!
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Chris914n6
post Jan 1 2017, 03:27 PM
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The fan is more than 10a just by itself.

If jumper cables from the car with a battery won't work, spurge for a jump box. I went with the 1000a minus the crap air compressor for work, but this one is currently on saleStanley 'FatMax' 700-Amp Peak Jump Starter. It's my battery substitute for all the project cars.

A battery charger, specially the newer ones, are expecting a battery, not the variable demands of an operating car.

Older charges will also introduce a hum to the speakers, specially with an amp.
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stugray
post Jan 1 2017, 07:08 PM
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QUOTE(Chris914n6 @ Jan 1 2017, 02:27 PM) *

The fan is more than 10a just by itself.

If jumper cables from the car with a battery won't work, spurge for a jump box. I went with the 1000a minus the crap air compressor for work, but this one is currently on saleStanley 'FatMax' 700-Amp Peak Jump Starter. It's my battery substitute for all the project cars.

A battery charger, specially the newer ones, are expecting a battery, not the variable demands of an operating car.

Older charges will also introduce a hum to the speakers, specially with an amp.


Yeah, sorry I was talking about just the radio or any component by itself.
It likely wont run the whole car (at once) for testing.
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Bartlett 914
post Jan 1 2017, 09:56 PM
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Jameco Power Supply

These guys have a lot of options. This one would work nicely and is pretty cheap
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pbanders
post Jan 2 2017, 06:40 AM
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QUOTE(Bartlett 914 @ Jan 1 2017, 08:56 PM) *

Jameco Power Supply

These guys have a lot of options. This one would work nicely and is pretty cheap


That's a nice, inexpensive 12V option with good output. FWIW, I find having a 12V supply that can put out at least 5A invaluable for testing most anything electrical from a car. A supply like this one is nice because it beats lugging a battery around, provides clean 12V with minimal ripple, and can be easily put in a drawer when not in use.

FYI, if someone out there buys this supply, it probably doesn't come with a power cord, get one or cut up an extension cord to use with it.
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jd74914
post Jan 2 2017, 07:29 AM
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QUOTE(pbanders @ Jan 2 2017, 07:40 AM) *

QUOTE(Bartlett 914 @ Jan 1 2017, 08:56 PM) *

Jameco Power Supply

These guys have a lot of options. This one would work nicely and is pretty cheap


That's a nice, inexpensive 12V option with good output. FWIW, I find having a 12V supply that can put out at least 5A invaluable for testing most anything electrical from a car. A supply like this one is nice because it beats lugging a battery around, provides clean 12V with minimal ripple, and can be easily put in a drawer when not in use.

FYI, if someone out there buys this supply, it probably doesn't come with a power cord, get one or cut up an extension cord to use with it.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I use those cheap Mean Well switching power supplies all of the time. They work great, especially for the price if you don't need instrumentation grade power. The dual or triple output units are really convenient too. As Brad said you will need a power cord. All you get is the power supply.
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TheCabinetmaker
post Jan 2 2017, 08:04 AM
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Why not just use a fully charged battery?
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gcrotvik
post Jan 2 2017, 01:24 PM
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QUOTE(The Cabinetmaker @ Jan 2 2017, 06:04 AM) *

Why not just use a fully charged battery?


I could but my radio testing for speaker placement could take several hours. I was looking for something I could get clean power from for a long period of time and not worry about having to recharge a battery once I'm done. Plus, having a bench top power supply allows be to easily test electrical components pre assembly.
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Mark Henry
post Jan 2 2017, 02:08 PM
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QUOTE(gcrotvik @ Jan 2 2017, 02:24 PM) *

QUOTE(The Cabinetmaker @ Jan 2 2017, 06:04 AM) *

Why not just use a fully charged battery?


I could but my radio testing for speaker placement could take several hours. I was looking for something I could get clean power from for a long period of time and not worry about having to recharge a battery once I'm done. Plus, having a bench top power supply allows be to easily test electrical components pre assembly.

A battery and charger would still work, but you will likely find a use for the that cheap PS.

The computer power supply is a good easy alternative and it's real easy to modify.
Many youtube videos, some are how to make a real nice PS, but you can just marette things together in minutes if you just want 12V.
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