A 73 with a bad left wart, Thought it was just a GM thing |
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A 73 with a bad left wart, Thought it was just a GM thing |
Gunn1 |
Jan 6 2017, 12:17 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,021 Joined: 14-February 16 From: Minnesota Member No.: 19,670 Region Association: None |
Members, my 73 914 has a issue I cannot seem to figure out.
While checking the frunk wiring harness everything appears to power up and work just fine, with the exception of the left wart. I had the same issue on my 2009 GM 1500 pickup. I could replace the parking/running light every day on that truck and without fail it would be blow out by the next day. Same thing with the left wart on the Teener. It doesn't blow/go out in front of you, but shut it off and turn it on the next day and dead. Replace the bulb and your good to go until the next day. What could be going on here, I'm perplexed, but that comes easy for me. |
914Sixer |
Jan 6 2017, 12:28 PM
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#2
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 8,877 Joined: 17-January 05 From: San Angelo Texas Member No.: 3,457 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Wire is going to ground somewhere.
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Coondog |
Jan 6 2017, 12:29 PM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,089 Joined: 24-September 15 From: Apple Valley Calif Member No.: 19,195 Region Association: Southern California |
I hear you on the Chevy truck, same issues. As for your Teener, take them off fill the hole and gain 15 hp from less side wind drag............ (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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Larmo63 |
Jan 6 2017, 12:52 PM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,264 Joined: 3-March 14 From: San Clemente, Ca Member No.: 17,068 Region Association: Southern California |
You can do what I did, just run a new black (stealth) wire to it along the wire harness, and tap back into the proper connection. It took me all of about a half hour to do, and it worked.
Easy peasy. |
Gunn1 |
Jan 6 2017, 02:21 PM
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#5
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,021 Joined: 14-February 16 From: Minnesota Member No.: 19,670 Region Association: None |
I do understand that however I'm not sure the ground or lack there of is the problem.
When the bulb on the wart goes out I mean it really goes out. Upon checking the bulb the filament is totally burned out, almost like a fuse. Could it be there is a stray voltage surge that pops the bulb? I will try Lawrences fix and see if anything changes. |
Front yard mechanic |
Jan 6 2017, 05:03 PM
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#6
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,160 Joined: 23-July 15 From: New Mexico Member No.: 18,984 Region Association: None |
On my chevy it's the short loop/ line
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Mueller |
Jan 6 2017, 05:16 PM
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#7
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 17,146 Joined: 4-January 03 From: Antioch, CA Member No.: 87 Region Association: None |
Weak springs or contacts for the bulb. Or wrong wattage bulb?
Does the right side bulb match the left side? You could have had the wrong bulb the entire time. |
Rand |
Jan 6 2017, 05:52 PM
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#8
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Cross Member Group: Members Posts: 7,409 Joined: 8-February 05 From: OR Member No.: 3,573 Region Association: None |
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Spoke |
Jan 6 2017, 06:24 PM
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#9
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Jerry Group: Members Posts: 6,978 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None |
Could it be there is a stray voltage surge that pops the bulb? Most likely this is the case although it's likely not so stray. My buddy had I think a Suburban that always blew out the one front driving light. The surge could be when you turn OFF the lights as the inductance of the wiring and load (headlights) can cause an undershoot. When you turn on or turn off the lights, a step function of voltage is applied/removed to/from the wiring. The inductance of the wiring (all wires have inductance) causes an overshoot. Below is Pulse 1 from ISO 7637-2 automotive standard for removal of power from a circuit with an inductive load like headlights. An inductive load resists a change in current. When current is removed immediately, the current in the load powers the circuit. In Figure 5 below, Pulse 1 from ISO 7637-2 causes the negative going overshoot. UA is battery voltage of nominal 12-15V. The undershoot US is upwards of 100V. Solution would be to check all wiring and your light switch. If your light switch is making/breaking with some jitter (on-off-on-off) as you move it, it could cause multiple Pulses 1 as shown below. In ISO 7637-2, Pulse 1 should be applied 5000 times to verify that the unit under test passes the standard. Attached image(s) |
Gunn1 |
Jan 6 2017, 07:22 PM
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#10
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,021 Joined: 14-February 16 From: Minnesota Member No.: 19,670 Region Association: None |
I like the "Fast acting" part. Did go out and just ran a wire from the ground on the battery to the wart, pulled the switch, the bulb lit up, pushed the switch off turned on again, no light bulb was fried already. Going to check the other suggestions tomorrow, shutting her down for tonight already 6 below here and supposed to get to minus 12 and that's real temp not windchill factor. |
ssuperflyoldguy |
Jan 7 2017, 12:13 AM
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#11
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Member Group: Members Posts: 173 Joined: 15-November 15 From: NorCal - East Bay Baby! Member No.: 19,364 Region Association: None |
Try a different bulb base
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