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> My 73 Suby drivetrain conversion upgrade!, Added a quick video on page 25
JRust
post Feb 5 2017, 02:29 PM
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My motor plans are changing. I picked up there 2005 wrx 2.0 motor. I bought this motor originally 3 years ago. Then had the wreck in my car. Ended up selling it to help pay for repairs. Brent was prepping it for his car when his plans changed. So given the opportunity I bought it back. My 09 2.5 will have more power especially low end. So it will go in my car eventually. But for now this motor is just to damned sweet it needs to go in my car. Plus has everything needed to do so. Only thing I am missing is the exhaust from the turbo back. Plus a cradle or firewall mount. Still debating between the 2


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Chris914n6
post Feb 5 2017, 02:59 PM
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QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 5 2017, 10:57 AM) *

QUOTE(Mike Bellis @ Feb 5 2017, 09:07 AM) *

Cut the heads off with a grinder. Once the head is off, they usually spin out by hand if the PO didn't put thread locker on them.

How do you cut them off Inside your trailing arm?

Undo the big nut and pull the whole thing out (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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JRust
post Feb 5 2017, 05:07 PM
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You shut your mouth Chris (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) . Yeah I can do that. I have always just gotten those bolts out. I plan to now as well. I will do that if I give up on the bolts but I'll get them out.
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matthepcat
post Feb 6 2017, 01:36 AM
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Decided on the EJ20 huh? What turbo is that?
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JRust
post Feb 6 2017, 12:15 PM
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QUOTE(matthepcat @ Feb 5 2017, 11:36 PM) *

Decided on the EJ20 huh? What turbo is that?

It's the stock turbo just rebuilt & polished by Outfront. I decided on that motor for now. I am going to hang onto my 2.5 motor. Going to get parts to build it into a bit of a monster. I want 400+ HP with that motor. Plus will be a easy swap later as well. I've got everything for this 2.0 motor. Just an easier swap at this point to get it in place.
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Chris914n6
post Feb 6 2017, 01:08 PM
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I never mess with those bolts. Too much PITA. R&R with the stub is just so much quicker and easier.

I prefer to waste time with overly complicated things like the Nissan gauge cluster swap.

QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 5 2017, 03:07 PM) *

You shut your mouth Chris (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) . Yeah I can do that. I have always just gotten those bolts out. I plan to now as well. I will do that if I give up on the bolts but I'll get them out.

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JRust
post Feb 10 2017, 04:33 PM
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Okay didn't do much this week as work kept me busy late most nights. Tomorrow Rich's drive train is coming out of my car. I'll update with some pictures once it is out.
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dangerranger01
post Feb 11 2017, 02:33 PM
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Your car is going to rock! I'd love to have a setup like what this is going to be.
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JRust
post Feb 11 2017, 06:13 PM
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I've got my old drivetrain out! Here are pics of it out off the cradle. I've got an oil pump to replace on my motor that was leaking. So have that to do this week. Cleaning everything up from the oil leak. Then bolting it all back together so it is ready for Rich to bolt right back it. Took me about 3 hours today to do it. Went slow & took more off than needed to get it out. Taking lots of pics as I go. Marking all the wires & what connected where. Managed to pull one sensor to my gauges out. just the wires about half way. Easy fix just missed it & pinched it when I pulled the motor. Guess it wouldn't be a motor pull without me missing at least one wire (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)


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strawman
post Feb 11 2017, 10:32 PM
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Good job Jamie; keep up the great work. I'm jealous of our "fleet" of turbo Suby engines. What, are you trying to corner the market?!?! I'm watching your progess closely.
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JRust
post Feb 12 2017, 02:47 PM
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QUOTE(strawman @ Feb 11 2017, 08:32 PM) *

Good job Jamie; keep up the great work. I'm jealous of our "fleet" of turbo Suby engines. What, are you trying to corner the market?!?! I'm watching your progess closely.

Corner the market nah. Hey what are you doing for an intercooler? Straight air? Air to Water? I know didly about intercoolers & need some education from the master (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)
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strawman
post Feb 12 2017, 06:51 PM
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I am using a Type 13 water-air intercooler from FrozenBoost. It is supposedly good for up to 450CFM/350hp. Here is a link to the one I'm using. It has good reviews across the interwebs, and it is pretty inexpensive. In fact, I spent more on tubing, silicon connectors, clamps, a junkyard pump from an BMW E34, and 3/4" rubber hose than I did on the actual intercooler.
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JRust
post Feb 12 2017, 06:59 PM
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QUOTE(strawman @ Feb 12 2017, 04:51 PM) *

I am using a Type 13 water-air intercooler from FrozenBoost. It is supposedly good for up to 450CFM/350hp. Here is a link to the one I'm using. It has good reviews across the interwebs, and it is pretty inexpensive. In fact, I spent more on tubing, silicon connectors, clamps, a junkyard pump from an BMW E34, and 3/4" rubber hose than I did on the actual intercooler.

Oh that looks compact as well. I need to go look through your thread again. Where did you mount yours? Are you doing anything Different pump wise with this? Just routing the cool return from your radiator through it. Before it gets back to the motor it flows through the intercooler as well?
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strawman
post Feb 12 2017, 11:17 PM
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Definitely use a separate cooling system to cool the intake charge; the engine coolant runs too hot. I run a heat exchanger in front of the radiator and pump air-water coolant using a Bosch contactless pump. These are easiy junkyards finds in '90s BMW 5- and 7-series as a heater booster pump; the Ford factory-supercharged Mustang Cobras use the exact same pump for its air-water intercooler.
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Andyrew
post Feb 13 2017, 12:56 PM
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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-172-1452935765_thumb.jpg)

My intercooler is about twice that size and I mounted it just behind the driver. I use the Bosch pump as well but its probably overkill. For how cool it runs a simply $20 12v pump would be fine. The radiator is in the drivers rear fender, but could have easily been anywhere under the rear trunk. I have a fan connected to a temp controller but I dont think it has ever came on. IAT's stay between 40 and 45C at a max.
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JRust
post Feb 13 2017, 02:30 PM
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Hey Geoff what clutch are you running. Stage one says its good to 300. Stage 2 says like 360. I should be in the 230-250 range. Just curious if I need a stage one or 2. Hate to get the stage 1 & have slippage despite what they say it can handle.

Was looking at this setup Clutch kit
Most the kits have a lightened flywheel. Do you recommend an OEM over a lightened ?
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914forme
post Feb 13 2017, 07:25 PM
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lightened is fine your car weighs a lot less than say the Forrester it came out of.
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strawman
post Feb 13 2017, 07:51 PM
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I'm not the guy to ask, since I've got a sum total of about 5 miles on my 914 so far. My donor car's engine came with a Fidanza lightweight flywheel and high-performance clutch, and it has no problem idling, no gear chatter (maybe my exhaust is too loud?!?!), or taking off from a dead stop in my teener. As Stephen mentioned above, our cars are light so you don't need the mass of a heavy flywheel to drive it smoothly.

I run an F1 Racing stage 1 clutch and lightened Cro-Mo flywheel in my M3-swapped BMW 318ti. It has a little gear clatter when idling, especially with the A/C on. But I'll live with that because it revs SOOOO freely...
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JRust
post Feb 13 2017, 08:13 PM
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Sounds like the stage one should be fine then. I'll roll with that. Was surprised they were so reasonable on pricing. I'm going to go ahead & order it. Could use some misc bolts. Wonder if they make a kit with subaru hardware? I don't have the flywheel bolts. I am sure there will be plenty of odds & ends for nuts/bolts.
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mgp4591
post Feb 14 2017, 12:58 AM
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QUOTE(JRust @ Feb 13 2017, 07:13 PM) *

Sounds like the stage one should be fine then. I'll roll with that. Was surprised they were so reasonable on pricing. I'm going to go ahead & order it. Could use some misc bolts. Wonder if they make a kit with subaru hardware? I don't have the flywheel bolts. I am sure there will be plenty of odds & ends for nuts/bolts.

You'll probably be fine with that one, but consider what upgrades you may want to make in the future. If the price is still reasonable, there's no issue with being overly prepared... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
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